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Strut Rod Alignment

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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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Default Strut Rod Alignment

The strut rods are not perfectly aligned from the differential mount to the Spindle bearing housing on my 64.

I have checked to make sure the camber adjusting bracket (attached to the differential) is properly oriented. It can only mount one way.

It is as if the differential is a little more toward the rear of the car than the trailing arms.

With the camber adjusting bracket mounted to the differential, and the strut rods installed in the bracket, I have to push the strut rods towards the front of the car to get them into the spindle bearing housings.

Car is close to normal ride height during assembly.

Is this normal?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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it is if the wheels are hanging since the trailing arms allow the spindles to pivot down and forward

raise the wheels
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Subfixer
It is as if the differential is a little more toward the rear of the car than the trailing arms. Is this normal?
Yes, it is. The design of the rear suspension is such that if you look at it from above, the half-shafts angle slightly forward from the diff to the spindles at design height. This was done so the half-shaft U-joints are always running at a slight angle, even if the half-shafts are perfectly horizontal in the rear view, so the needles and trunnions are always in motion, to prevent brinnelling of their hardened surfaces. This slightly forward angle in the plan view is repeated in the strut rods, as their inboard and outboard ends are aligned vertically with the diff output yokes and the wheel spindles.

The rear spindles describe an arc as the trailing arms move up and down, so the rear spindles are furthest rearward when the trailing arm is perfectly horizontal relative to the pivot bolt in the side view; that position makes it easiest to attach the strut rods.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Thanks Dave and John for the quick answers and design explanation.

My concern is gone.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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The description of the rear suspension geometry by John is a perfect illustration of why poly bushings in the strut rods are a bad idea.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The description of the rear suspension geometry by John is a perfect illustration of why poly bushings in the strut rods are a bad idea.
Yes, Heim-jointed adjustable rods are the ONLY ones which whould be considered..................except for show cars.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Poly bushings in the rear strut rods are a bad idea? Please tell me why as my mechanic has a full replacement set of Prothane Poly bushings (from Corvette America) in his hands and they will be installed throughout the front and rear by Monday or Tuesday.

The rear strut rods in my '65 convertible are stock, but I do have a TRW composite leaf spring, if that matters. Please turn my plans back, or put me at ease.

Last edited by PaulUptime; Sep 19, 2009 at 08:52 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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The strut rods do not follow a simple up-down motion remaining perpendicular to the inner mounting point, but are subject to fore/aft deflection and torsional forces along the rod as the outer mount located on the trailing arm moves through the arc as mentioned by John. Poly fails miserably at locations where multi dimensional movement and compliance is required of a bushing.

Same geometry applies to trailing arm bushings, so no poly there either!

If you want a really honest opinion, I would NEVER use poly again on a car, one of the dumbest things I've ever done. Well, top ten anyway.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:21 PM
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I think Polyurethane, like rubber, is available in various durometer readings. I would think that polyurethane that closely resembles rubber would be okay. The main complaint I have heard is squeeks. That being said, I put poly body mounts under a 92 truck and wouldn't do that again due to noise transmission and harshness.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 63Corvette
Yes, Heim-jointed adjustable rods are the ONLY ones which whould be considered..................except for show cars.
Garret, can you recommend a source for Heim-jointed rods?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Subfixer
Garret, can you recommend a source for Heim-jointed rods?
I got mine from Dick Guldstrand, but I believe that Vette Brakes and even Mid America carry them.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The description of the rear suspension geometry by John is a perfect illustration of why poly bushings in the strut rods are a bad idea.
I have been driving coast to coast and border to border with poly bushings in my strut rods for 20 years. I have only had 1 of the 4 fail (about 10 years ago) and it was easily replaced (they pull right out). Mine don't squeak that I can hear, nor has my wife complained (and she hates car noises). DZVETTE complained about a rattle in front of the passenger seat on the last Power Tour, but I think I found that.

At any rate, the strut rods are the ONLY poly bushings in my car and I am happy with them.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Thanks for all the responses, hope I'm not guilty of a hijack here.

I am installing a full set of Prothane bushings from Corvette America. Doing everything. All the front, all the back, even the diff carrier bushings are being replaced, and all this just before a 6500 mile road journey from Toronto to New Mexico and Arizona (with lots of off highway touring.)

It will be very interesting to see if choosing poly bushings are one of MY top-10 mistakes, or among the top-10 improvements to my '65. I'm putting in a Borgeson steering box too, which I'm thrilled to have after testing another this summer. So far, much time has been spent but I've been happy with changing out all body mounts, replacing the NOM with a polished Edelbrock crate 350, the Keisler 5 speed, all-new wiring from Lectric Limited, relays to supply direct voltage to my Hella H4 lamps, my hidden power key, storage locker, pager alarm, aluminum dash insert and a great-sounding triple amp, 6 speaker sound system.

I think that's 10!

Last edited by PaulUptime; Sep 19, 2009 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by magicv8
I have been driving coast to coast and border to border with poly bushings in my strut rods for 20 years. I have only had 1 of the 4 fail (about 10 years ago) and it was easily replaced (they pull right out).
That's a 25% failure rate vs. 0% on my rubber bushings during the same time period, also with lots of miles on the counter. Not really a good recommendation given that the poly bushing's main claim to fame is long life. In this application, the other 'advantage' of rigidity is a non-starter as the bushings are in a constant state of tension, unlike almost any other bushing on a C2/C3 which constantly varies from tension to compression and back again.

But I'm glad that someone likes them
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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How many pothole miles do you put on your rubber bushings in 20 years?

..and could you change one bushing in 20-30minutes like I did?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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Being that I live in Quebec, the answer is 'all of them'
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 12:00 PM
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...and I realized that if you want to compare them statistically by lifespan, you must remember that all 4 rubber bushings were cracked out with half the rubber missing after the first 20 years (a third of which was in storage.

That means the rubber bushings have 400% more failures in 20 years.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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I think you meant 100%, but would wonder why you have experienced so many bushing failures as compared to the norm. What are you using for critieria- operational issues or simply surface appearance?
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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No it's a 4 to 1 ratio. All 4 factory bushings were falling apart - actually rubber around the center air pockets and cracks then rubber around the outer edges of each bushing. It's how I got the car when it was 20 years old. In the 21 years since, I have only had to replace 1 poly bushing, and I have more than doubled the miles on the car.

At this point I quit the thread - since we are very close to hijacking it.
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