Engine Temperature Too Cold??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
a lot of opinions on this but 180-205 seems to be consensus of what i have read....im sure there is a time element in there also but i usually go through two t stat cycles before i shut it down while in cold storage and i run it once a month and leave the battery disconnected in the mean time....marine engines run cooler water temps but because they are under such a constant moderate to heavy load, the combustion temps are high enough to ward off any sludge buildup and they run under ideal pure air conditions, there is hardly any dirt on the water....this is why a by pass to the pump is so important for faster warm ups and consistent temps.... i think the op has a leaky stat. ..the card board works but should be removed in warmer weather as stated earlier.....
I usually dont have the desire to go through all the reasons why they are different. Thanks for making the effort.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 96
From: Sunrise FL
A V8 engine burns a LOT of fuel and generates a LOT of heat ending up in the coolant. If the therm is operating properly AND is immersed in the coolant flow the block will heat up till the therm starts to open at it's rated temp. A piddly size heater core won't overcool a V8!
When the therm is closed, blocking the rad should not really make much difference. Water flow should be close to zero.
It's been stated before that a 180 stat is optimum for performance and keeping the oil temp in its effective and safe range.
When the therm is closed, blocking the rad should not really make much difference. Water flow should be close to zero.
It's been stated before that a 180 stat is optimum for performance and keeping the oil temp in its effective and safe range.
Last edited by mikem350; Dec 20, 2009 at 12:22 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,179
Likes: 79
From: central FL, near the beach.
I know this may be a little difficult to believe for some folks, but I know it for a fact. I had a friend with a small Chevy pickup that wouldn't heat up in the wintertime. You could pull the cap off the radiator and stick your finger in the coolant, it was only warm.
He tried everything to get it warmed up, including totally blocking the radiator with cardboard, changed the thermostat 2 or 3 times, nothing worked. This went on for 2-3 years, like to have froze in the wintertime. I saw him a couple of years later, he told me that a GM parts man told him to put in a GM thermostat. Naturally, he didn't believe the GM thermostat at 3 to 4 times the price of various local FLAPS thermostats would make a difference. Wrong!! Voila! Problem cured, warmed up as it should have and neither he nor I had an explanation for why it worked when the others wouldn't.
I still don't know why it worked, but I don't argue with success.
He tried everything to get it warmed up, including totally blocking the radiator with cardboard, changed the thermostat 2 or 3 times, nothing worked. This went on for 2-3 years, like to have froze in the wintertime. I saw him a couple of years later, he told me that a GM parts man told him to put in a GM thermostat. Naturally, he didn't believe the GM thermostat at 3 to 4 times the price of various local FLAPS thermostats would make a difference. Wrong!! Voila! Problem cured, warmed up as it should have and neither he nor I had an explanation for why it worked when the others wouldn't.
I still don't know why it worked, but I don't argue with success.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 262
From: Blue Bell PA
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
you might have the wrong cap,search fan clutch adjustment ,you loosen the spring on the front a half a turn. I went thru that problem last year it seems much better now. try it .
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,018
Likes: 331
From: Southeast Missouri
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,179
Likes: 79
From: central FL, near the beach.
a housing i got 15 yrs ago had a THIN O-ring that caused the internal leak.
Got a new housing and it has a real THICK oring that looks to solve the problem-doesnt allow up/dn movement that lets water pass by the t'stat.
Anyone can check for a leak:
1. Cold start
2. drive 2 miles
3. grab upper rad hose at rad. Should be COLD! if it is warm, tstat is leaking, or some dingbat drilled holes in it
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,218
Likes: 448
From: NJ Hockey beer league
Some good suggestions, thanks to everyone who has offered their ideas. I will pull the new T-stat and double check it's operation and for internal leaks as well. That sounds promising. I'll also look at the fan clutch adjustment too. Don't think the car will be out on the road again till spring now with the 18 inches of snow we got last night (and all the salt 
) but I will try to see if I can get the temps up at idle at least. Pilot Dan
) but I will try to see if I can get the temps up at idle at least. Pilot Dan
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