Engine Temperature Too Cold??
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,215
Likes: 447
From: NJ Hockey beer league
Engine Temperature Too Cold??
Greetings from the frozen Northeast 27* with 12 -18 inches of snow on the way
Last night, I was racing to install my new steering box in the 64 and get a test drive in before the really bad weather hit today and discovered that my engine was only operating at 145*
It was about 25* outside with a strong wind and I did have the heat going full blast to keep from freezing to death. Checked the cars guage against the IR gun with the engine still running when I got back (20 mile drive) and they both agree 145* which is obviously less than the opening point in the T-stat (recent). New aftermarket fan clutch is installed as well with the stock fan. Warm temperature ops seem fine.
So here is the question, has anyone else operating in cold conditions experienced this?? I have talked to some who partially block off the radiator when it gets really cold out to get the temps up to 180*, but I did not think that should be necessary in these cars. This is kind of a reverse twist of the usual posts on engines running too hot, but it would be interesting to hear opinions and discussion about this. These were after all just daily driving cars back in the 60's and drove in the Winters like the rest of them.
Last night, I was racing to install my new steering box in the 64 and get a test drive in before the really bad weather hit today and discovered that my engine was only operating at 145*
It was about 25* outside with a strong wind and I did have the heat going full blast to keep from freezing to death. Checked the cars guage against the IR gun with the engine still running when I got back (20 mile drive) and they both agree 145* which is obviously less than the opening point in the T-stat (recent). New aftermarket fan clutch is installed as well with the stock fan. Warm temperature ops seem fine.So here is the question, has anyone else operating in cold conditions experienced this?? I have talked to some who partially block off the radiator when it gets really cold out to get the temps up to 180*, but I did not think that should be necessary in these cars. This is kind of a reverse twist of the usual posts on engines running too hot, but it would be interesting to hear opinions and discussion about this. These were after all just daily driving cars back in the 60's and drove in the Winters like the rest of them.
Last edited by Pilot Dan; Dec 19, 2009 at 09:19 PM. Reason: typos
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 168
From: Wi
My 64 runs at 180 all day long, however, when I took it out for the last time before storage,( damn winter thing), it was about 40 deg out, and the temp gauge wouldn't get past 160deg or so. So yeah, I experienced it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,065
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
It is wierd but is happens alot in these cars. I put a new rad in my 78 dodge lil red exp truck and it is like that all the time in very cold weather.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 60
From: Buffalo New York
I guess this is a nice problem to have. I have experienced just what you are describing. I have a 180* stat in my car. It is controlling a DeWitt radiator. I have a zz383 stroker in this car with 3:55 rear end. During the hottest days of the summer whether on the interstate at 75mph or running red light to red light the car never goes past 180*. This past November we had some nice clear 50* days. Took the car out several times and it ran well below 180* on the guage. In fact it ran so cool that the choke was barely off and if I got on the throttle at times it would backfire and stutter because the choke was slightly on. I know that I should adjust that choke a bit but it runs so good during the warmer weather I hesitate to mess with it.
Dennis
Dennis
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 34
From: Ontario
Thermostat
Seems to me that if you have a 180 degree thermostat in the engine and it is operating properly that the temp should come up to 180 and stay there . You might want to put a new one in . The dash gauge in these old chevy's are not very acurate .
Bill Purdy
Bill Purdy
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
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From: Clayton NC
I'm not sure that's true. If the engine coolant temperature never makes it to 180* then the thermostat is not going to open. In the winter months I have to block half the radiator to get my coolant temperature up to 180. If not the coolant temperature will be around 140*. My temperature gauge is accurate and typically why most of these old chevy's have gauge problems is not the gauge but the poor reproduction temperature senders.
To the OP,
It sounds like you have a well functioning cooling system and I would not be concerned. As you can see your observations are not unlike what some of us others have experienced.
Dave
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
i know this will sound silly..but here goes..if your coolant level is too low, it will cause this condition, in cold weather. if the level is ok, then the stat could be at fault....( slight internal leak)....good luck.....
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Michael S. Palmer
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,016
Likes: 331
From: Southeast Missouri
He tried everything to get it warmed up, including totally blocking the radiator with cardboard, changed the thermostat 2 or 3 times, nothing worked. This went on for 2-3 years, like to have froze in the wintertime. I saw him a couple of years later, he told me that a GM parts man told him to put in a GM thermostat. Naturally, he didn't believe the GM thermostat at 3 to 4 times the price of various local FLAPS thermostats would make a difference. Wrong!! Voila! Problem cured, warmed up as it should have and neither he nor I had an explanation for why it worked when the others wouldn't.
I still don't know why it worked, but I don't argue with success.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,215
Likes: 447
From: NJ Hockey beer league
With the cold temps and wind, combined with the fact that I had the heat and blower going full blast, maybe this was siphoning off about 20* or so of the engine temps. My real concern with the engine only running at 145* under these conditions is that it is not reaching a hot enough temperature to burn off all the condensation and over the long run could lead to sludge deposits. The car itself starts, fast idles, and runs just perfect in any temperature. 
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,347
Likes: 673
From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
Remember that the heater acts as a small radiator. Any air flow through the heater is sucking heat out of the engine.
Blocking off the radiator is common practice "up north", and is sometimes the only way to get temps up high enough. Take a look at 18 wheelers where they block off the radiator with a zippered fabric.
Plasticman
Blocking off the radiator is common practice "up north", and is sometimes the only way to get temps up high enough. Take a look at 18 wheelers where they block off the radiator with a zippered fabric.
Plasticman
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,901
Likes: 10
From: Woodstock GA
Remember that the heater acts as a small radiator. Any air flow through the heater is sucking heat out of the engine.
Blocking off the radiator is common practice "up north", and is sometimes the only way to get temps up high enough. Take a look at 18 wheelers where they block off the radiator with a zippered fabric.
Plasticman
Blocking off the radiator is common practice "up north", and is sometimes the only way to get temps up high enough. Take a look at 18 wheelers where they block off the radiator with a zippered fabric.
Plasticman
I would try maybe blocking off 1/8 of the radiator.Ifthat does notwork try 1/4.Just remember if during the summer if it gets hot.The cardboard still might be there....
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 34
From: columbus ohio
question, what is the lowest temp that a engine should run to burn off
all the gases or what have you in the oil. i know you should run the engine a bit and not just an idle to get the fluids to the right temp?
to me 160 sounds too low. jim
all the gases or what have you in the oil. i know you should run the engine a bit and not just an idle to get the fluids to the right temp?
to me 160 sounds too low. jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,215
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From: NJ Hockey beer league
Pilot Dan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
If it closes properly. Your engine will warm up properly. The biggest issue with temps below 180, is accelerated internal wear. Down here in Texas we have temps in the teens during winter. I have also had many winters in snow country. Never an issue with getting to operating temps and plenty of heat for the heater.The cars/trucks still warm up to normal operating temps. Diesels are a different beast and do require closing the flaps in severe winter. Check your thermostats.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,347
Likes: 673
From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
Might also be how much coolant is bypassing the thermostat, either at the thermostat valve or the sealing of the thermostat O.D. ring to the housing & gasket). Some gaskets allow for the thermostat to float around in the housing, allowing for a good amount of bypass. Other thermostats have bypass holes intentionally drilled in them (Stewarts for one).
Then there is the question about engine condensation. Note that my 79 Mercruiser engine (Chevy 350) in my boat came with a 140 deg. stock thermostat and never suffered from any sludge, condensation, or any wear related failures in 23 years of usage (and I did have it apart a couple of times for other reasons). I agree that short term trips, with a lower temp t-stat will decrease condensation burnoff, but that is not how I normally drive my recreational vehicles.
Plasticman
Then there is the question about engine condensation. Note that my 79 Mercruiser engine (Chevy 350) in my boat came with a 140 deg. stock thermostat and never suffered from any sludge, condensation, or any wear related failures in 23 years of usage (and I did have it apart a couple of times for other reasons). I agree that short term trips, with a lower temp t-stat will decrease condensation burnoff, but that is not how I normally drive my recreational vehicles.
Plasticman
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 203
Likes: 38
From: Taunton Mass
I don't think it's ever been replaced. Have to guess it's an old
US GM.
Bob D.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,901
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From: Woodstock GA
Condensation oil and gas blowby.Exhaust valve leakage...Normal operating temp for at least an hour every two weeks.This is by airplane Guru Brally/Who says at least two hours per month...He also flys a Bonanza.That has over 4000 since TBO.For fun he had it rebuilt.Upon tear down he found all pistons and cylinders within factory specs.The worst thing to do to any engine is to let it set up and not run up to operating temps.Acid build up in oil.Then corrosion starts to do bad things.