C2 Cluster light problem
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
C2 Cluster light problem
I am in the process of re-installing my dash cluster. I have everything hooked up according to the AIM schematic. One big issue,my gauge lights (all grey wires) stay on regardless of the headlight switch or key position. When I try to use the rheostat. There is no response. The other lights such as turn signal,brake warning light,headlight etc.. are working fine.
All ground wires are connected. I must be overlooking something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
All ground wires are connected. I must be overlooking something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
I was wrong. Problem not solved. My grey wire gauge lights have power running to them with the headlight switch attached or unattached. If I ground any one of the grey dash light wires the bulb lights up. They are the only wires affected. 
Last edited by MiguelsC2; Apr 12, 2010 at 08:44 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
Did you by chance connect the always hot dark brown wire (with black female connector), to the ground spade above the tach, instead of the black ground wire (with black female connector)?
This would power your dash, and I think provide a power source for the bulbs, turning their grey wires into an alternate ground path.
This would power your dash, and I think provide a power source for the bulbs, turning their grey wires into an alternate ground path.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
Did you by chance connect the always hot dark brown wire (with black female connector), to the ground spade above the tach, instead of the black ground wire (with black female connector)?
This would power your dash, and I think provide a power source for the bulbs, turning their grey wires into an alternate ground path.
This would power your dash, and I think provide a power source for the bulbs, turning their grey wires into an alternate ground path.
With just the harness connected, All of the grey wire bulbs have a positive current running to them. If I ground any one of the grey wires the bulb lights. Very strange. This did not happen before my restoration. When I had them installed in the cluster. I could swear I was getting a little shock from the rocker moulding. I had shorts on and my leg was hanging out the door touching the rocker moulding at the time.
Last edited by MiguelsC2; Apr 12, 2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
Might Help
I have a 65 and not a 63 so this may or may not apply.
On your fuse block, is there a fuse marked "INST LIGHTS"? It's the 4th fuse down on mine I think . If so, pull it and see if the power is still applied to the grey inst lights. If it is, then that takes the headlight switch out of the hunt. Power to the cluster lights (again on a 65) comes from the TAIL LPS 10A fuse (#5), through the headlight switch then to the cluster lights but goes through fuse #4 after the switch. (God that was confusing - it's so much more obvious with a drawing)
If the power is still there when you remove fuse #4: Does your fuse panel have two "spare" spades to connect to? Is anything hooked up to them? One of them is a connection for the lights that backlight the air conditioning switches (on cars with air conditioning). If you have something that is feeding 12V back on that spade, it will power the cluster lights because it is after the INST PNL fuse.
Let me know and we can go from there. Will try and find a 63 schematic in the mean time.
Geek
On your fuse block, is there a fuse marked "INST LIGHTS"? It's the 4th fuse down on mine I think . If so, pull it and see if the power is still applied to the grey inst lights. If it is, then that takes the headlight switch out of the hunt. Power to the cluster lights (again on a 65) comes from the TAIL LPS 10A fuse (#5), through the headlight switch then to the cluster lights but goes through fuse #4 after the switch. (God that was confusing - it's so much more obvious with a drawing)
If the power is still there when you remove fuse #4: Does your fuse panel have two "spare" spades to connect to? Is anything hooked up to them? One of them is a connection for the lights that backlight the air conditioning switches (on cars with air conditioning). If you have something that is feeding 12V back on that spade, it will power the cluster lights because it is after the INST PNL fuse.
Let me know and we can go from there. Will try and find a 63 schematic in the mean time.
Geek
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
One more thing. The only electrical item replaced, is the headlight dimmer button on the floor. I am under the assumption that it does more than hi/lo beam. Is that correct? It's the only thing still connected.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
I have a 65 and not a 63 so this may or may not apply.
On your fuse block, is there a fuse marked "INST LIGHTS"? It's the 4th fuse down on mine I think . If so, pull it and see if the power is still applied to the grey inst lights. If it is, then that takes the headlight switch out of the hunt. Power to the cluster lights (again on a 65) comes from the TAIL LPS 10A fuse (#5), through the headlight switch then to the cluster lights but goes through fuse #4 after the switch. (God that was confusing - it's so much more obvious with a drawing)
If the power is still there when you remove fuse #4: Does your fuse panel have two "spare" spades to connect to? Is anything hooked up to them? One of them is a connection for the lights that backlight the air conditioning switches (on cars with air conditioning). If you have something that is feeding 12V back on that spade, it will power the cluster lights because it is after the INST PNL fuse.
Let me know and we can go from there. Will try and find a 63 schematic in the mean time.
Geek
On your fuse block, is there a fuse marked "INST LIGHTS"? It's the 4th fuse down on mine I think . If so, pull it and see if the power is still applied to the grey inst lights. If it is, then that takes the headlight switch out of the hunt. Power to the cluster lights (again on a 65) comes from the TAIL LPS 10A fuse (#5), through the headlight switch then to the cluster lights but goes through fuse #4 after the switch. (God that was confusing - it's so much more obvious with a drawing)
If the power is still there when you remove fuse #4: Does your fuse panel have two "spare" spades to connect to? Is anything hooked up to them? One of them is a connection for the lights that backlight the air conditioning switches (on cars with air conditioning). If you have something that is feeding 12V back on that spade, it will power the cluster lights because it is after the INST PNL fuse.
Let me know and we can go from there. Will try and find a 63 schematic in the mean time.
Geek
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
If you don't have the light switch hooked up then the lights are definetely getting power from another source. This means that you have a hot wire touching bare metal somewhere. To find the culprit. Pull all of the fuses in the fuse block.
Do the lights go out?
Yes, start putting fuses back in one at a time until you find the power source
No, disconnect the rear harness from the interior harness
No, disconnect the bulkhead connectors from the engine by side of the fuse block.
If they are still on get back to us...
Dave
Do the lights go out?
Yes, start putting fuses back in one at a time until you find the power source
No, disconnect the rear harness from the interior harness
No, disconnect the bulkhead connectors from the engine by side of the fuse block.
If they are still on get back to us...
Dave
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
Exactly. Pull fuse #4 and see if it's still there. That will tell which side of the fuse block we need to look at sources on. If it goes away from the bulbs, put it back and then as Hitch has said - pull the rest of the fuses and see when it goes away. That will give us some clue of where to look for the short. If it doesn't go away, you are powering them somewhere on the cluster itself and we can start looking there.
G
G
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
It's possible you have a stray wire inside the fuse block that is powering the light-side of the panel lamp fuse. As Dave (Hitch) indicates, pull all the fuses from the panel, see if the problem persists. If pulling a specific fuse makes the lights go out, that circuit is the one in trouble.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,474
Likes: 16
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
Thanks guys. Looks like I am in good hands.
I did remove the fuse block from the firewall to install the hushmat an new insulation. I will run the fuse test tomorrow. I have internet at the shop. So I will be posting the results tomorrow after lunch.
I did remove the fuse block from the firewall to install the hushmat an new insulation. I will run the fuse test tomorrow. I have internet at the shop. So I will be posting the results tomorrow after lunch.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
Hushmat? Aluminum foil coated hushmat? Hmmmmm.