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So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
If so, at the moment I have my 62 327/340 set at 20@750 RPM. My distributor is a mechanical advance only distributor which adds another 20 degrees of timing, so I'm all-in at 40 degrees@3,000 RPM.
So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
Regardless of which engine you have, using the stock timing spec as listed in the shop manual shouldn't result in a hesitation unless you have other problems.
A 300 hp engine will have different timing requirements than a 340/360 hp engine.
You can get carried away with 'optimization'. I had my 283ci/270hp timing cranked up to 16* initial at one point and it was quicker on response but started 'bucking' at light throttle. Set it back to the factory spec of 12* and no more bucking and the response is VERY slightly less snappy but still quite decent. Mileage improved too.
So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
My car hesitated also when I set the timing at 6*, 600 RPM vacuum disconnected. Thanks to BarryK and his FAQ post, Information on Timing, the car runs great now. Don’t know if I did it exactly correct but this is what I have.
Looks like I got a little fumble fingered , it should have been 327/300 and not 330 . Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
I'm still working on getting my engine temp down . It's a fresh rebuild and wants to run at about 225-235 . new fan clutch , flushed out radiator ,new thermostat (180), and plenty of new antifreeze . I hope I'm not having a head gasket problem . Maybe the timing change will help !
Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
After reading what BarryK wrote, if I understand him correctly, you are shooting for 36* @ 2,500 to 3,000 RPM vacuum disconnected. You may need to let the 600 RPM vacuum disconnected reading fall where it goes. The 36* is the most important part. You might want to read his post on the topic.
[QUOTE=MikeM;1574110875]Be advised some engines will not take 36* @ 2500/3000 without spark knock when the vacuum advance is pulled in on top of that.
QUOTE]
Thanks MikeM as you are probably aware by now, all I know on the subject is what I read from the post by BarryK.
BarryK recommends to test for knock by leaving the vacuum line off (line plugged with a golf tee) and driving the car. While in fourth gear, at about 1200 to 1500 RPM, accelerate and listen for knocking. If none then you are okay. I would think you might have a different result with hot weather vs. cold weather.
Last edited by 63 corvette; May 18, 2010 at 03:59 PM.
Looks like I got a little fumble fingered , it should have been 327/300 and not 330 . Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
I'm still working on getting my engine temp down . It's a fresh rebuild and wants to run at about 225-235 . new fan clutch , flushed out radiator ,new thermostat (180), and plenty of new antifreeze . I hope I'm not having a head gasket problem . Maybe the timing change will help !
If your distributor has never been overhauled now is an excellent time to blueprint it. Have the ignition map optimized, end gear play shimmed to about .007",use HD points(28-32 oz spring pressure) and ascertain the VAC is the correct for your application.(B22). Use a quality cap & rotor such as Accel.