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Old May 18, 2010 | 01:06 AM
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So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
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Old May 18, 2010 | 01:12 AM
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327/330?

Do you mean 327/340?

If so, at the moment I have my 62 327/340 set at 20@750 RPM. My distributor is a mechanical advance only distributor which adds another 20 degrees of timing, so I'm all-in at 40 degrees@3,000 RPM.

Last edited by 62Jeff; May 18, 2010 at 01:30 AM.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
Regardless of which engine you have, using the stock timing spec as listed in the shop manual shouldn't result in a hesitation unless you have other problems.

A 300 hp engine will have different timing requirements than a 340/360 hp engine.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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You can get carried away with 'optimization'. I had my 283ci/270hp timing cranked up to 16* initial at one point and it was quicker on response but started 'bucking' at light throttle. Set it back to the factory spec of 12* and no more bucking and the response is VERY slightly less snappy but still quite decent. Mileage improved too.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
So, the shop manual I have says the timing on my 327/330 should be 6 degrees . Seems like it hesitates slightly so I'm wondering where everyone elses it set .
My car hesitated also when I set the timing at 6*, 600 RPM vacuum disconnected. Thanks to BarryK and his FAQ post, Information on Timing, the car runs great now. Don’t know if I did it exactly correct but this is what I have.

327ci - 300 hp - mild cam

Vacuum off, 600 rpm, 10*
Vacuum off, 3000 rpm, 35*

Vacuum on, 600 rpm, 17*
Vacuum on, 3000 rpm, 50*

Thanks BarryK for the post it really helped!
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Old May 18, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Default timing/heat

Looks like I got a little fumble fingered , it should have been 327/300 and not 330 . Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
I'm still working on getting my engine temp down . It's a fresh rebuild and wants to run at about 225-235 . new fan clutch , flushed out radiator ,new thermostat (180), and plenty of new antifreeze . I hope I'm not having a head gasket problem . Maybe the timing change will help !
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Old May 18, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
After reading what BarryK wrote, if I understand him correctly, you are shooting for 36* @ 2,500 to 3,000 RPM vacuum disconnected. You may need to let the 600 RPM vacuum disconnected reading fall where it goes. The 36* is the most important part. You might want to read his post on the topic.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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Be advised some engines will not take 36* @ 2500/3000 without spark knock when the vacuum advance is pulled in on top of that.

Unless the timing is 10* or more slow, I don't think timing will give you a hesitation, just a soggy throttle.

Too much timing at low speed will cause bucking and trailer hitching even without spark knock.

Check your ignition point condition and dwell while you're in there tinkering around.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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[QUOTE=MikeM;1574110875]Be advised some engines will not take 36* @ 2500/3000 without spark knock when the vacuum advance is pulled in on top of that.
QUOTE]

Thanks MikeM as you are probably aware by now, all I know on the subject is what I read from the post by BarryK.

BarryK recommends to test for knock by leaving the vacuum line off (line plugged with a golf tee) and driving the car. While in fourth gear, at about 1200 to 1500 RPM, accelerate and listen for knocking. If none then you are okay. I would think you might have a different result with hot weather vs. cold weather.

Last edited by 63 corvette; May 18, 2010 at 03:59 PM.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Looks like I got a little fumble fingered , it should have been 327/300 and not 330 . Anyway ,I'm gonna try 10* with vacuum disconnected and see what happens .
I'm still working on getting my engine temp down . It's a fresh rebuild and wants to run at about 225-235 . new fan clutch , flushed out radiator ,new thermostat (180), and plenty of new antifreeze . I hope I'm not having a head gasket problem . Maybe the timing change will help !
If your distributor has never been overhauled now is an excellent time to blueprint it. Have the ignition map optimized, end gear play shimmed to about .007",use HD points(28-32 oz spring pressure) and ascertain the VAC is the correct for your application.(B22). Use a quality cap & rotor such as Accel.

A good map for 327-300 hp

Start 0* @ 900 rpm
12* @ 1500 rpm
26* @ 3200 rpm.
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