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So my car is a '65 coupe. I've owned it since the early seventies. Even though I bought it when it was relatively "young", it had a hard life when I got it. Engine numbers aren't original, don't know about the rest of it. It is a driver which I'm trying to make as nice as possible. Not necessarily original but I want it to look like it could be.
The engine in it now is from a '65 Chevelle, set up like a 350 h.p. (pistons, cam, intake, and 2.02 heads). But one of these days it will need an overhaul.
So finally here is my question - I have a chance to buy a '65 Corvette block and crank. March or April date code. My car was built in November or December. Since I will overhaul my engine someday is it worth spending the money and putting a Corvette block in, albeit the wrong date code. Block and crank would run probably $500 or so. One advantage would be I could take my time building the engine and still have a driver. Whether I rebuild the one I have or the other block I am leaning towards lowering the compression, probably 10 to 1.
What do you guys think? Any advice you can offer me?
500 $ sounds like an OK price to me if the crank is good and the block is not alreay bored way over. I wouldn't put too much value on the date as you can't see it from above anyway .
Bill Purdy
Milano Maroon;
I have a 63- SW, that isn't original, alas it has a 1964 Corvette block.
When I checked out the numbers I saw that the only part that wasn't 63, is the block, it is an RE suffix -300 hp "64".
But what it does have correct is,-63 fuelie heads, Winters Alum intake, AFB 4 barrel, 63 exhaust manifolds, high RPM tach and ribbed valve covers all for a 340 horse motor, except the block.
It now looks like a 340 horse car and it is still ALL Corvette, even though the numbers don't match.
IMO, I would buy the block, if it's any good and it is a Corvette motor put it in and then it will be ALL Corvette again, just not numbers matching.
Just have fun with it.
Al.
Check out the following link - I bought an 870 block from this guy (went up and met him to pick it up and a nice guy) and all was what he said it was (and the price is right at $150). He has a September 64 block .030 over so you could get a date correct block. Not sure if the sept block is a short block or just a block, but give him a call to find out. Not sure if he would crate and ship for you, but seems like you could still have it delivered for a lot less that $500.
He has other 870 blocks if anyone is looking for one. All 870 blocks, 3 are 1963 blocks (A-21 & E-9 are standard bore, F-20 is .030 over) and the Sept 64 block mentioned above.
Also, I am not going to use the short block I bought from him after all if you want do discuss that short block. Date is Feb 18, 1965 and it is a Non-corvette Flint block (Impala or something). Currently at .030 but needs to go to .040 according to machine shop (block has been magged). Has a polished .010/.010 crank (with some water stains) and good rods according to the machine shop. Also has .030 pistons, but will need to replace once the block is bored to .040.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Ken
Last edited by remotecontroller; Aug 30, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
I went through this dilemma some time ago. Found the correct date code block and heads. I was going to just try and make it correct for the car but not a numbers matching fake. After investing in the heads and block, I checked into some prices for rebuilding, machining, parts, etc. I ended up selling it to another forum member and buying a 383 stroker crate motor 450/450 for about the same price to rebuild the 327/365. Since I didn't buy the car for investment purposes, I decided it would be more fun to have the stroker motor with a ton of torque and way more horsepower than I could get out of the 327. BUT, if I had a correct 327/365 running gear and correct everything I would probably have built the motor VS 383 stroker. Your car, your decision!
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am leaning towards the idea of making it ALL corvette, regardless of the dates. I am going to pursue both of these leads and see what happens.
I agree, the crate motor would be nice and a lot of fun to drive, but frankly I am looking for something a little milder, easier to drive, and hopefully do OK with the pitiful gas and octane levels we have available these days. I must be getting old...
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am leaning towards the idea of making it ALL corvette, regardless of the dates. I am going to pursue both of these leads and see what happens.
I agree, the crate motor would be nice and a lot of fun to drive, but frankly I am looking for something a little milder, easier to drive, and hopefully do OK with the pitiful gas and octane levels we have available these days. I must be getting old...
Your car, your call. But for that money and just a little more effort you could make it all Corvette with numbers and date correct. M2C
Your car, your call. But for that money and just a little more effort you could make it all Corvette with numbers and date correct. M2C
Are you suggesting I keep looking until I find the correct Month? Does it matter if the block I might find is a week or two AFTER mine was produced as long as the alpha date code is correct?
Are you suggesting I keep looking until I find the correct Month? Does it matter if the block I might find is a week or two AFTER mine was produced as long as the alpha date code is correct?
Depends what criteria you're trying to satisfy. If you want it "correct" from a judging perspective, the block casting date should be up to six months prior to the car's final assembly date (although 2-6 weeks is "typical").
So I may have found a 870 block with a casting date code preceding my body build date by 2 weeks. I don't know the exact build date of the car but by my calculations it is about another 5 or 6 days later than the body build date.
Problem is - it has been decked (or at least the pad numbers have been removed). Any way to tell if this is a Corvette block?
So I may have found a 870 block with a casting date code preceding my body build date by 2 weeks. I don't know the exact build date of the car but by my calculations it is about another 5 or 6 days later than the body build date.
Problem is - it has been decked (or at least the pad numbers have been removed). Any way to tell if this is a Corvette block?
Your VIN will establish the car's final assembly date, as will the body build date on the trim tag if it's a St. Louis body. St. Louis-bodied cars were produced off the line the day after the body build date on the trim tag.
With no pad stampings, that eliminates identifying it as a Corvette block; however, it can be identified as a Flint block (which were the only ones used in Corvettes) by the use of a single digit for the year in the block casting date code, and by the presence of a square-head 1/8" NPT plug in the block at 11 o'clock just above the timing cover. Tonawanda blocks used two digits for the year in the casting date code, and didn't have the plug.
Thank you for the information John. My car has VIN 197437S115116. I don't have a way of checking but I calculated that coincided with a April 12 or so assembly date. Am I close?
The trim tag says the body build date is I6 which I think means April 6. DBut if I have a St. Louis body then that doesn't work out. My other tag says A2676 BODY. Does that mean anything?
So the 870 block I am looking at has a date code of C235 which I took to mean March 23 cast date. Does it also mean it is a Flint block since there is only a "5" in the code? Would all of these dates work and allow me to have a "correct" dated engine for my car?
So a Flint block could go in something besides a Corvette but a Corvette will only have a Flint block?
Your car was 326 cars after my 65 coupe. I have A2600 body built I1 (April 1st). My block was cast C 21 5. The block you are looking at is perfect for your car.
Your car was 326 cars after my 65 coupe. I have A2600 body built I1 (April 1st). My block was cast C 21 5. The block you are looking at is perfect for your car.
Thank you for the information John. My car has VIN 197437S115116. I don't have a way of checking but I calculated that coincided with a April 12 or so assembly date. Am I close?
The trim tag says the body build date is I6 which I think means April 6. DBut if I have a St. Louis body then that doesn't work out. My other tag says A2676 BODY. Does that mean anything?
So the 870 block I am looking at has a date code of C235 which I took to mean March 23 cast date. Does it also mean it is a Flint block since there is only a "5" in the code? Would all of these dates work and allow me to have a "correct" dated engine for my car?
So a Flint block could go in something besides a Corvette but a Corvette will only have a Flint block?
Thanks for your patience.
Your car was produced on April 15th, give or take a day or two; it has an A.O. Smith body (A2676 body number) which was built in Ionia, Michigan on April 6th.
That's a Flint block, and as others have noted, it's fine for your car.
Your question on Flint blocks and Corvettes is correct.
----------------------------------- and by the presence of a square-head 1/8" NPT plug in the block at 11 o'clock just above the timing cover. -----------------------------------
And then of course, there's the guys like me who drill and tap a passage in EVERY block I build that doesn't have the plugged hole up front. I do this as a matter of routine for whatever purpose, or, just put in a plug.
Here's an example of an oil filled motorcycle oil pressure that I put in my boat engine (420SB). This allows visualizing the oil pressure right off of the engine. Oh ya, I did the same thing to the Olds 455 in my Cutlass.
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Oil passageway
Originally Posted by JohnZ
and by the presence of a square-head 1/8" NPT plug in the block at 11 o'clock just above the timing cover.
John,
Why did Flint blocks have the pipe plug in that oil passageway, and Tonawanda blocks not even have it drilled out ??? I see what Tom did above, but I have NEVER seen that hole used for anything from the factory. Have you ???
Milano Maroon;
I have a 63- SW, that isn't original, alas it has a 1964 Corvette block.
When I checked out the numbers I saw that the only part that wasn't 63, is the block, it is an RE suffix -300 hp "64".
But what it does have correct is,-63 fuelie heads, Winters Alum intake, AFB 4 barrel, 63 exhaust manifolds, high RPM tach and ribbed valve covers all for a 340 horse motor, except the block.
It now looks like a 340 horse car and it is still ALL Corvette, even though the numbers don't match.
IMO, I would buy the block, if it's any good and it is a Corvette motor put it in and then it will be ALL Corvette again, just not numbers matching.
Just have fun with it.
Al.
Splitman,
Just out of curiousity, what are the numbers on that block? I have a 64 with the incorrect engine and I am always curious as to what happened to my block.