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Only an opinion, but if the numbers are wrong, it may be a Corvette motor, but it is wrong for your car. My opinion would have me buying a correctly dated Flint block and go from there. Even if it is a Corvette block, but wrongly dated, it is incorrect for you car. If it is a non-Corvette block, it would be correctly dated, but still not original to the car like the other block is. I would go with Flint block, correctly dated.
Only an opinion, but if the numbers are wrong, it may be a Corvette motor, but it is wrong for your car. My opinion would have me buying a correctly dated Flint block and go from there. Even if it is a Corvette block, but wrongly dated, it is incorrect for you car. If it is a non-Corvette block, it would be correctly dated, but still not original to the car like the other block is. I would go with Flint block, correctly dated.
And that's the thing that kind of bothered me about the C235 date code block I missed out on. The pad had been erased (I assume through decking) so while it had an appropriate casting number, and the correct date code, and was probably a Flint block (never saw it and didn't know enough at the time to ask about the plug) - it may not have been a corvette block originally.
In the end though, I kind of lean towards Dave's opinion. If it has been decked so no VIN or application exists but has a correct date code, a correct casting number, and is a Flint it may not be better but is certainly no worse than a Corvette engine built a month after my car was assembled. I guess it comes down to personal opinion.
Why did Flint blocks have the pipe plug in that oil passageway, and Tonawanda blocks not even have it drilled out ??? I see what Tom did above, but I have NEVER seen that hole used for anything from the factory. Have you ???
RON
That port was originally used to feed the OPTIONAL oil filter on the '55 V-8 engine. One year only for cars. Trucks may have used it for something else. Don't know.
Depends what criteria you're trying to satisfy. If you want it "correct" from a judging perspective, the block casting date should be up to six months prior to the car's final assembly date (although 2-6 weeks is "typical").
Well the March 23rd block sold before I could buy it, the March 15th block turned out to be July ("G" instead of "C") but now I have found a April 5th casting date. Is that too close to an April 14th or 15th build date?
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Dont waste your hard earned money............build what you want, incorrect is incorrect & it will never be original again. Close count or add any money value to your car.........
Well the March 23rd block sold before I could buy it, the March 15th block turned out to be July ("G" instead of "C") but now I have found a April 5th casting date. Is that too close to an April 14th or 15th build date?
It's kind of close, especially since you already have sample dates from a car probably built one day before yours. As you've seen there are plenty of correct blocks out there, keep looking if you want it to appear original. M2C
Well the March 23rd block sold before I could buy it, the March 15th block turned out to be July ("G" instead of "C") but now I have found a April 5th casting date. Is that too close to an April 14th or 15th build date?
If it's a Flint block, an April 5th casting date vs. an April 15th car build date isn't out of the ordinary at all; what's stamped on the front pad?
This thread is a good example of people with incredible knowledge helping out those who can use their knowledge, and the knowledgeable guys aren't getting testy about all the questions. I am learning a lot and the issue doesn't even concern me (don't have a vette yet!) Thats why these forums can be such good resources. Keep up the good work.
John