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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Default Timing

I have a 66 327/300. Completely rebuilt. It will only start with the timing way advanced. If I start it and back off the total timing to about 34 degrees at 2800 rpm it runs great. But if I shut it down and try to restart it won't. It spits gas back up out of the carb. It will restart if I advance the timing. Help please. It has a Crane electronic ignition and Accell wires.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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try setting it 8° BTC at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then check the total mechanical advance: tell us what rpm it is completely advanced and how many total degrees it went to full advance.

I assume you are using a vacuum advance, your mecnanical advance weights are clean, and you have a bushing on the vacuum advance rod to remove any play in the connection to the breaker plate.

Last edited by magicv8; Oct 4, 2010 at 03:27 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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You need to varify that actual TDC on #1 agrees with your timing marks. Bet your damper has slipped or you have the wrong pointer.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
You need to varify that actual TDC on #1 agrees with your timing marks. Bet your damper has slipped or you have the wrong pointer.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
You need to varify that actual TDC on #1 agrees with your timing marks. Bet your damper has slipped or you have the wrong pointer.
How can a damper slip, it is keyed to the crank isn't it?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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The outer ring of the damper slips on the rubber elastomer.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Runnin Loose
The outer ring of the damper slips on the rubber elastomer.
That's quite rare - it takes 1,000 ft-lbs applied to the outer ring while the hub is held solid to "slip" the elastomer bond to either the hub or the inertia ring.

Easy enough to check - the timing index line on the inertia ring should be aligned exactly with the keyway in the hub and the pulley bolt hole just outboard of the keyway.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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Is this the initial start-up after the full rebuild? Or has the engine been running before but now it isn't? If it has been running, was there any other work done just before it developed this weird symptom?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's quite rare - it takes 1,000 ft-lbs applied to the outer ring while the hub is held solid to "slip" the elastomer bond to either the hub or the inertia ring.

Easy enough to check - the timing index line on the inertia ring should be aligned exactly with the keyway in the hub and the pulley bolt hole just outboard of the keyway.
What John states is true, but after 30+ years of being oil soaked they will slip.

I've had two go south on me. My '57 Desoto in my truck slipped back against the timing gear housing and the one on my '66 Corvair spit the rubber in my face while I was blipping the throttle.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sokooh
I have a 66 327/300. Completely rebuilt. It will only start with the timing way advanced. If I start it and back off the total timing to about 34 degrees at 2800 rpm it runs great. But if I shut it down and try to restart it won't. It spits gas back up out of the carb. It will restart if I advance the timing. Help please. It has a Crane electronic ignition and Accell wires.
Your symptoms aren't consistent with one another for just slow timing or timing misadjusted.

If the timing is close enough to start good, it should run decent and vice/versa and not spit back through the carb.

Make sure you don't have some plug wires crossed. Valves aren't too tight? Timing gears aligned properly?

I might suspect that electronic ignition if I knew anything about them.

If it's none of the above, I'd start with finding TDC on the piston stroke and go from there.
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