I just ordered Hooker Competition headers with the smaller 1 5/8" primary tubes in case the Super Competition headers with the 1 3/4" primary tubes are to big and give me clearance problems. I will receive both on Friday and hopefully at least one set of them will fit. If neither one works I see where they sell BLOCK HUGGER types that should work. I don't want to deal with modifying the steering linkage if I can help it.

 

I don't have a picture, but there is a reasonable amount of room from the headers to the stock steering box. Take a look at Post #10 in this link:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...nd-pinion.html
It shows what appears to be the Hooker headers like mine with a Borgeson steering conversion. Although it's not a rack & pinion, it might help you gauge the clearance.

 

If you don't run good headers and a good free flowing exhaust, that nice dyno sheet that they generated for you don't mean squat.

 

Thanks for the help. The pictures with the Hooker headers make it look like I might possibly have enough room. I am going over my friends house today to look at his 63 roadster, his still has the stock steering set up. Thanks again, this is a really great place to get knowledgeable help for guys like me.

 

Today both sets of Hooker headers I ordered arrived at my house. One set of of HOOKER COMPETITION headers and the other set of HOOKER SUPER COMPETITION headers. I tried both sets on my car but the SUPER COMPETITION set did not clear my rack and pinion steering so I am sending them back. The 1 5/8" primary tube and 3"collector regular HOOKER COMPETITION headers installed with plenty of clearance everywhere with the exception of ground clearance. They are now the lowest part of the car which I will have to be aware of when I drive it. The alternator bracket I ordered with the headers also didn't work. It raised the alternator higher by about 1/4" and my hood was touching the alternator bracket. A completely new alternator mount was fabricated by my friend Tom. We tried it tonight and it works fine so he is going to finish welding it in the morning. I should have the alternator side of the header insallation finished tomorrow. The other header is on but my buddy Tom will fabricate an air conditioning bracket for that side tomorrow. Some small brackets were also made to shield the plug wires from the headers as I am running mine from underneath. I under estimated the amount of work it is to put a set of headers on the car but its coming along and I hope to get it to the muffler shop next week for them to make the pipes. My car is a 63 coupe but I imagine all the C2 cars have about the same clearances. I wish I would have purchased Dynomax headers as they look like they would have better ground clearance but they did not list any for Corvettes so I didn't know which ones to buy.

 

On the brackets... If your heads are drilled and tapped on the ends, check out C3 brackets which fastened to the heads not the manifolds. Should be good diagrams at some of the restoration parts vendors sites...

Harry

 

Tell me a bit about your motor. Did it get 410hp and 449 tq with the exhaust manifolds on the dyno?

What heads,intake and carb are you running? How does the performance feel now with cast iron manifolds? Are they 2 1/2 inch?

 

I ended up with an Alan Grove bracket that I had powdercoated for $10 and it was the best thing I ever did. Installation was a snap and it really looks good.
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/

 

Thanks for this tip. I love the way their brackets mount from the heads.

 

The engine made those figures on an engine dyno with 2 inch primary tubes and 3 inch collectors that the engine builder uses to get the most HP and torque he possibly get while on the dyno. Those figures will fall DRASTICLY with a stock manifold, 2 1/2 inch manifolds, block hugger headers, or shorty headers with stock manifolds causing the worst loss. I was using a stock manifold and although the car ran good and was obviously faster than the worn out 350 was, it was not what I expected. The builder told me the engine NEEDED at least 1 5/8 inch primary tubes and a 3 inch collector long tube header. He also said the stock manifolds would hold in to much heat besides choking it up. This engine only has 9.6 to 1 compression and aluminum heads (STRIKE FORECE) which seem to be ok for a street car. It has roller hydraulic cam and roller rockers, an Edelbrock Air Gap manifold, Edelbrock 750 carb, MSD ignition, Eagle crank and H beam rods, fully balanced rotating assembly. Dyno numbers were 410 HP and 440 lbs torque. I don't know what it wiil get in the car under real life conditions not on an engine dyno. I have already put over 2000 miles on it when it had the stock manifolds so I should be able to tell the seat of the pants difference if any with the new headers pretty soon.

The cam specs are:
lift .520-.540
Duration @ .050 236-242
110 Center line

The car is a 63 split window coupe, 383 stroker with ART CARR 200R4 transmission, 4 wheel disc brakes, rack & pinion, air conditioning, silver with blk int.

 

i had a set of hooker supercomps on my '65 327/365. they really woke up that little motor. great set of headers for a sbc. good luck, tjs

 

I have the smaller COMPITITION headers, 1 5/8" tubes while your SUPER COMPS had 1 3/4" tubes. The larger ones let it breath better at higher RPMs I am told. The smaller ones should work fine for a street performance engine though.

 

Has anyone tried the Stahl headers for side exhaust?

 

I am still not totally happy with the Hooker Competition headers. They are now the lowest part of the underneath, even lower than the frame rails by a couple of inches. Jegs sells some headers made by Patriot specifically for 63 to 82 vettes that are made to address the issue of ground clearance. They have a smaller collector (2 1/2") than the Hookers and the ports are round instead of square so they will be more restrictive than than the Hookers. I am leaning towards ordering a set and trying them on the car before I make a final decision.

 

I think that any set of quality full length headers are going to become your lowest spot as they did for me. If you rub, you will first rub the flange before you ever get to "pipe."

 

It's apparent to me that I can't have it all as far as headers are concerned. I ordered the Patriot Tri 5 headers from JEGS and I'll make a final choice between them or the Hookers after I get them. At least I'm happy about the AC and alternator brackets that I can use with either set of headers since they now just attach to the heads.

 

Finally finished the header project. Ended up going with the Hooker Competion headers. The muffler shop took off the flanges at the collector for added ground clearance and slipped in 2 1/2" pipes all the way back to the mufflers. There is an easily noticeable difference in the power. The car is louder inside than before but it sounds good. No heat is coming into the car at all so the ceramic coating must be working. I will put a few hundred miles on it and tighten everything everything up again.