For those of you that have used all thread to make a front spring compressor, did you use regular all thread or the acme all thread with the square teeth. If you used the acme all thread, any ideas as to where we can buy it?
Thanks Brian

 

I used regular thread from Home depot. Shemp

 

Used regular thread and lots of grease with a grade 8 nut. ACME rod you may have to order from a local industrial supply/fastener house.

 

I just used 1/2" regular allthread.

It really wasn't a compressor, but rather controlled tension reliever and safety to keep the spring captured.

I used the weight of the car,and a floor jack, to compress the springs.

Doug

 

I have the body off and had it stripped down to the frame for repair and paint. I need something that can compress and hold the spring for installation.
Thanks Brian

 

The std 1/2" allthread will work.

Doug

 

This is what i made up.
I even used the snubber insert to hold things in place and a shock absorber rubber.

 

What is the best way to use the compressor. Do you tighten from the top or the bottom? Do you compress the spring enough to attach the spindle to the ball joint and then release the pressure or does the lower A arm get compressed up with the spring?
Thanks Brian

 

Yall be careful with those threaded shafts. I doubt they are high quality, and even though you are using grade 8 nuts, the shaft aint. The combination is no stronger than the threads.

 

I'd suggest the best thing for you to do would be to wait until the body is back on to do the work. Best way is to NOT use a spring compressor. The safe way is to use a floor jack to compress the spring. I used 5/8 all threads with a 1/4 inch steel plate for a washer. The all threads is just for safety to make sure the spring doesn't get loose. It would not be good to get hit in the face with a flying spring.

Do a search on the subject and you will find lots of pictures.

 

I cannot find my pic of how i used my made up tool.
It's not the prettiest but it did the job.
What i did was insert the spring into top pocket, raise lower Aframe up as far as i could, then put floor jack in place to hold. Then i put "compression tool" in through the lower Aframe up through the upper hole for mounting shock.
Start with floor jack to compress and tightened tool to hold, kept checking that spring was in pockets at lower Afame and upper pocket. Had spindle ready to put on when it got close, mounted spindle on top Aframe, then kept going back and forth between jack and tool. When the lower one was in place attached Aframe to spindle, torqued them and released jack and tool...
Its easier if you have two people.

BE CAREFUL

This is what i started with



The tool went through the shock mount hole in this pic



Finished

 

I'm not sure where I got it, but here is a description I saved (and used) of how to remove/replace the front springs:

If you are doing front end work, I am assuming that you are removing the a-arms for new bushings or removing the ball joints. Based on that, here is the safest and most sure way to compress the spring.

1. Remove the shock. Mark the spring top location in relation to the spring perch socket (eg, the end of the coil is in a particular position in the socket).

2. Insert a long threaded rod, 3 ft x 1/2 in or 3 ft x 5/8 in dia in the
shock mount on top and drop down through the shock mount on bottom.
The diameter is determined by what you can fit in the shock mount hole on top.

3. Install a couple of very large washers on top and a nut or two. (Second nut is a safety backup.) Grease the rod where you place the nuts and grease the washers. There should be about 10 inches of rod above the frame.

4. This is the weird part. I use a 3 inch pipe flange to cover the bottom shock hole. Use what you want to cover the large hole (some sort of very large "washer" that cannot slip through). Then place a couple of large washers and two nuts on the rod. Snug them against the flange and lower a-arm so that there are a couple of inches of rod showing.

5. Tighten the nuts on top against the frame until the lower a-arm begins to lift.

6. Remove the 3 bolts on the lower a-arm pivot bar (2 front, 1 rear).

7. Loosen the nuts on the top of your threaded rod slowly to lower the a-arm.

8. The spring will be loose in about 2 inches of travel. Loosen the nuts until the spring is fully relaxed and wants to fall out. Once loose, you can safety remove the threaded rod from the shock holes and pull the spring out.

To install the spring, reverse the procedure.

Using this, you do not have to fear the spring flying out, a compressor slipping off (they do occasionally), and you don't have to try to fish chains around the spring for safety.

 

66jack - thanks for the pictures. I'm in the same spot you were in these pictures.
Thanks for all the input. I'll have to try this tomorrow hopefully.

 

your welcome

 

Please get some all threads, nuts, and make yourself a large washer to be safe and contain the spring. Then the spring cannot possibly get loose and kill you. What Waynec describes is the safe way to do it.

 

This is how I do the springs. Theaded rod with thick washers on the shock end and an old buffing pad with a steel plate over it on the other. Make sure you grease the rod and washer well. Yes the chassis is upside down. Thats the way I do all my chassis's. Much easier when you work by yourself as I do.

 

Working on a chassis upside down is simple, excellant. Thanks

 

I bought some Acme all- thread 1/2" , nuts and washers. I'll give it a try when I get the chance. I found some Acme all thread which I think will be safer to use.
Thanks Brian