Dot 5, Silicone
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,012
Likes: 2,252
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Best thing you can do for your brakes over the winter is to go out and depress the pedal every once in a while...especially with lip seals. Keeps the seeps away!
JIM
JIM
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: South East, USA
it was recommended to me because i live in a very humid location (90% as i sit here at 10 at night) - because it doesn't absorb water supposedly i will have less corrosion in the system - that is how this all came about
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,873
From: Greenville, Indiana
Using Dot 3, you HAVE to maintain it or you will have water, sludge, corrosion problems.
Using Dot 5, you have to do....................well, nothing.
Fixed calipers with four small pistons (as used on a C2) seems to have unique problems of their own compared to the floating, large bore calipers used on most production cars that also seem to require little if any maintainance using the factory fill.
Stuck pistons due to corrosion on small bore wheel cylinders on drum brakes also seem to be a thing of the past using Dot 5. Of course, most OEM's don't use drum brakes any longer.
It's very humid where I live most of the year and NO problems due to stuck, corroded brake parts.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,380
Likes: 8,805
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: South East, USA
in going to switch the fluid, i found a caliper leaking - wanted to rebuild them, but have now found they are not the correct parts
wanting to preserve the option to judge, i got some rebuilt calipers with the correct numbers
of course, while i was at it, i figured i should swap out the lines and rebuild the master and bought a kit and new lines (steel not stainless)
first section of line is from cylinder to brass junction block - it came with a 180 bend in the middle (in addition to the pre-bends at the master cyl end and the brass block end) - when installed, the 180 opens up to a 90 degree bend
my question is this: there is no way (without additional bending) you can feed the line under the clutch pedal support (going either front to back or back to front) - so, is is ok to bend the line early on to clear the hurdle and then unbend it once it goes through?
i am thinking it is ok, but wanted to ask
also, is there another way to feed the line so no additional bending is needed?
thanks
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,873
From: Greenville, Indiana
as things usually go with our old cars, one thing led to another
in going to switch the fluid, i found a caliper leaking - wanted to rebuild them, but have now found they are not the correct parts
wanting to preserve the option to judge, i got some rebuilt calipers with the correct numbers
of course, while i was at it, i figured i should swap out the lines and rebuild the master and bought a kit and new lines (steel not stainless)
first section of line is from cylinder to brass junction block - it came with a 180 bend in the middle (in addition to the pre-bends at the master cyl end and the brass block end) - when installed, the 180 opens up to a 90 degree bend
my question is this: there is no way (without additional bending) you can feed the line under the clutch pedal support (going either front to back or back to front) - so, is is ok to bend the line early on to clear the hurdle and then unbend it once it goes through?
i am thinking it is ok, but wanted to ask
also, is there another way to feed the line so no additional bending is needed?
thanks
in going to switch the fluid, i found a caliper leaking - wanted to rebuild them, but have now found they are not the correct parts
wanting to preserve the option to judge, i got some rebuilt calipers with the correct numbers
of course, while i was at it, i figured i should swap out the lines and rebuild the master and bought a kit and new lines (steel not stainless)
first section of line is from cylinder to brass junction block - it came with a 180 bend in the middle (in addition to the pre-bends at the master cyl end and the brass block end) - when installed, the 180 opens up to a 90 degree bend
my question is this: there is no way (without additional bending) you can feed the line under the clutch pedal support (going either front to back or back to front) - so, is is ok to bend the line early on to clear the hurdle and then unbend it once it goes through?
i am thinking it is ok, but wanted to ask
also, is there another way to feed the line so no additional bending is needed?
thanks
You need to ID what year of plug yer working on. Custom or modified. Power brake or standard.
Generally speaking, you can massage the lines without problem if you don't kink them.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 104
Likes: 8
I have used Dot 5 on my past restorations with no problems. I just sent two original c-1 front wheel cylinders to White Post Restorations and they sent a note not to use Dot 5.
They claim it swells some types of rubber. I wish I knew that before I spent the extreme $$$$$ cause I prefer Dot 5 .
Mac
They claim it swells some types of rubber. I wish I knew that before I spent the extreme $$$$$ cause I prefer Dot 5 .
Mac
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,380
Likes: 8,805
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,380
Likes: 8,805
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I have used Dot 5 on my past restorations with no problems. I just sent two original c-1 front wheel cylinders to White Post Restorations and they sent a note not to use Dot 5.
They claim it swells some types of rubber. I wish I knew that before I spent the extreme $$$$$ cause I prefer Dot 5 .
Mac
They claim it swells some types of rubber. I wish I knew that before I spent the extreme $$$$$ cause I prefer Dot 5 .
Mac
I ain't buying that claim that it swells some rubber. Do they have any proof?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 334
Dot 5 leaks
This thread has come up before about dot 5 leaking or not leaking. No one seems to agree with me though so I guess I'm doing something wrong. Now my definition of a leak is, if the fluid passes the cup seal and gets to the outer rubber cap , it's leaking and will show up eventually. Of course none of the sleeve rebuilders will stand behind their rebuilds if you use dot 5 so what's with that. In my past 2 cars I put in dot 5 hoping they would not leak but they all did. After flushing out the dot 5, installing new seals and putting in dot 3, the cylinders were OK. This 63 I purchased, I asked if the cylinders leaked. No, you will not find leaks with her, I used dot 5. Well the first thing I did when I got the car was remove the wheels and hubs and sure enough, leaks. The rubber was so mushy it melted in my hands. I do not know about disc brakes but if you have drum brakes and had dot 5 fluid in it for awhile, sometime remove a hub and slip off the rubber cap on the cylinder and see if you do not see fluid.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,380
Likes: 8,805
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I have DOT 5 in all my old cars, most have drum brakes but my two track cars have four wheel discs. One of my drum-brake toys was converted to DOT 5 about 35 years ago. The others, more recently.... between 10 and 25 years ago. None of them have any leaks.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,873
From: Greenville, Indiana
DOT 5 fluid was developed for the military in the '30's-'40's. At that time, it was noted that the DOT 5 would swell some rubber components in brake systems. It was further noted that all rubber brakes parts manufactured in the last 60 years or so are completely compatible with DOT 5 and do not swell or unduly deteriorate due to contact with DOT 5.
This paperbook information is found in this rather lengthy article. Pay attention to paragraph 6.11.
There's many, many references articles in the bibliography at the bottom of the article that will keep you off the streets for hours.
PS. One of the references was regarding the US Army procedure for changing military vehicles from glycol based fluid to silicone. It was stated to use the silicone fluid to push the glycol out of the system with a pressure bleeder. Further, a warning not to use chemicals or solvents to flush the system.
Last edited by MikeM; Dec 16, 2014 at 07:45 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,380
Likes: 8,805
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
It was stated to use the silicone fluid to push the glycol out of the system with a pressure bleeder. Further, a warning not to use chemicals or solvents to flush the system.
Jimmy needs to know more so if you can go back and add a link to the article, I'd be grateful.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,873
From: Greenville, Indiana
I don't see a link to the article.
Wow. Well, both of those recommendations come as a surprise. They fly in the face of what I tell people and what I've done when doing the conversions.
Jimmy needs to know more so if you can go back and add a link to the article, I'd be grateful.
Wow. Well, both of those recommendations come as a surprise. They fly in the face of what I tell people and what I've done when doing the conversions.
Jimmy needs to know more so if you can go back and add a link to the article, I'd be grateful.
Don't let the title throw you.
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...luid_long.html
As far as the information in the article and the information provided by looking in the credits, I'll let the reader here determine if they are credible or not. I believe the are.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,049
Likes: 134
From: St. Clair Shores MI
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
2017 C2 of the Year Finalist
over 20 years on a White Post rebuilt master cyl and auto parts counter calipers and Dot 5
absolutely no issues.
absolutely no issues.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,144
Army
as things usually go with our old cars, one thing led to another
in going to switch the fluid, i found a caliper leaking - wanted to rebuild them, but have now found they are not the correct parts
wanting to preserve the option to judge, i got some rebuilt calipers with the correct numbers
of course, while i was at it, i figured i should swap out the lines and rebuild the master and bought a kit and new lines (steel not stainless)
first section of line is from cylinder to brass junction block - it came with a 180 bend in the middle (in addition to the pre-bends at the master cyl end and the brass block end) - when installed, the 180 opens up to a 90 degree bend
my question is this: there is no way (without additional bending) you can feed the line under the clutch pedal support (going either front to back or back to front) - so, is is ok to bend the line early on to clear the hurdle and then unbend it once it goes through?
i am thinking it is ok, but wanted to ask
also, is there another way to feed the line so no additional bending is needed?
thanks
in going to switch the fluid, i found a caliper leaking - wanted to rebuild them, but have now found they are not the correct parts
wanting to preserve the option to judge, i got some rebuilt calipers with the correct numbers
of course, while i was at it, i figured i should swap out the lines and rebuild the master and bought a kit and new lines (steel not stainless)
first section of line is from cylinder to brass junction block - it came with a 180 bend in the middle (in addition to the pre-bends at the master cyl end and the brass block end) - when installed, the 180 opens up to a 90 degree bend
my question is this: there is no way (without additional bending) you can feed the line under the clutch pedal support (going either front to back or back to front) - so, is is ok to bend the line early on to clear the hurdle and then unbend it once it goes through?
i am thinking it is ok, but wanted to ask
also, is there another way to feed the line so no additional bending is needed?
thanks