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Well slowly making progress. After assembling the brake system with all new components, including lines and master cyl. I started bleeding the system. I decided to use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in case things got messy I wouldn't have to worry about the paint on the chassy and elsewhere.
I have never used Dot 5, silicone before, and wouldn't you know it I am having touble getting a hard pedal. I have run about 4 bottles of fluid thru the system using the pump the pedal method with a helper. I have a steady stream of fluid at all wheels with no air bubbles at all. And there are no leaks. I should have a firm pedal by now but I don't. Something is amiss. So my question is, does this DOT 5 silicone brake fluid act differently than what I am use to?
Thanks Dave.
Mine didn't. DOT 5 likes to hold air but it works the same. Personal opinion is I like it - you just have to be patient, bleed it, let it sit a day and bleed it again. However it sounds to me like the air is in the master and not the lines. You bench bleed the system? Makes a huge difference.
Mine didn't. DOT 5 likes to hold air but it works the same. Personal opinion is I like it - you just have to be patient, bleed it, let it sit a day and bleed it again. However it sounds to me like the air is in the master and not the lines. You bench bleed the system? Makes a huge difference.
G
I use DOT 5 in every car I restore. Never had a single problem with it. Don't shake the bottle, bench bleed the M/C and pour it gently.
I have run about 4 bottles of fluid thru the system using the pump the pedal method with a helper. I should have a firm pedal by now but I don't. Something is amiss. So my question is, does this DOT 5 silicone brake fluid act differently than what I am use to?
Something is definitely wrong. I can fill and bleed a system with DOT5 using less than one bottle of fluid.
Bleeding the master cylinder might help, many recommend it, but I've never found it to be necessary.
The big thing is to just go slowly. Glacially slowly. Pour slowly and use a clean screwdriver as a pouring guide. Pump slowly. Don't agitate the brake fluid. Don't let it get air bubbles.
Well slowly making progress. After assembling the brake system with all new components, including lines and master cyl. I started bleeding the system. I decided to use Dot 5 silicone brake fluid in case things got messy I wouldn't have to worry about the paint on the chassy and elsewhere.
I have never used Dot 5, silicone before, and wouldn't you know it I am having touble getting a hard pedal. I have run about 4 bottles of fluid thru the system using the pump the pedal method with a helper. I have a steady stream of fluid at all wheels with no air bubbles at all. And there are no leaks. I should have a firm pedal by now but I don't. Something is amiss. So my question is, does this DOT 5 silicone brake fluid act differently than what I am use to?
Thanks Dave.
Oh yeah it acts differently!!! Dot 4 is just fine for my cars!
I've never had to bench bleed a single reservoir master cylinder. Usually always had to on a dual, or maybe I just did it. I'd certainly do it in your case.
Some disc brake Corvettes are just hard to get the air out, some aren't. I've never found the dot 5 vs dot 3-4 made any difference in bleeding difficulty. A quart of fluid should be more than enough to do the job.
Make sure your bleeder screws on the calipers are all facing up. Are they?
When replaced my calipers I drained the entire brake system. I removed the master cylinder and bench bled it first. Very slowly. then I gravity bled the system opening up one caliper at a time, starting with the furthest from the M/C. Then the next furthest and so on. When it was done I let it sit a couple of days (I was in no hurry) and did it again. When I felt it was clear of air I used the conventional method of having someone slowly pump and hold the pedal. More air came out. Then I tested the pedal and it was fine. I had just heard too many horror stories about air in DOT 5 to even try putting pressure on the master until I felt I did all I could without pumping on it.
One more note. After running a few hundred miles over a few months this winter I checked my brake fluid level just to see if it was okay, but it was about an inch lower than I had left it. Of course I checked for leaks from the back of the M/C all the way down to each fitting and caliper and had none. I have been told that it is very possible that trapped air in the fluid had made its way up to the top. But again, I never had any soft pedal issues.
All good advice above. One additional thing that I have found in the Northeast. In the winter time if the fluid and shop are cold it adds an additional degree of difficulty to the bleeding. I'm note sure why, but silicone fluid always bleed better for me in the warm weather. I use silicone fluid in all of my Corvettes except the race cars and my C5 with ABS.
Regards,
Dave Gray
Carlisle, Pa.
Thanks for all the good advice. I guess I should have said from the onset that the car in question is a '56. Not my c-3. Hence the post to this forum. No disc or calipers here. Has only one resourvour and all parts are new. There are diffinately no leaks. Have checked it repeatedly. Master cyl. not leaking either.
I believe I will crack the fitting at the master cylinder and bleed. And good advice to let it settle awhile then bleed slowly.
Thanks, Dave.
Picking up on this old thread, someone advised that Dot5 is a must in a very hot/humid climate (such as Houston) as Dot3 and 4 absorb water and Dot5 is hydrophobic and does not and so dot5 keeps water out (?) and prevents corrosion
it does appear that Dot5 is hydrophobic, so no confirmation needed there - but what happens to the moisture then, if it is not absorbed in the fluid? - does it just sit in the lines and cylinder? - wouldn't that cause just as much corrosion? - have others used dot5 for this reason and does it help eliminate or minimize corrosion in the system?
if i want to switch from 3/4 to 5, i am supposed to "flush the system thoroughly" - what, exactly does that mean?
is it sufficient to pull new fluid through the bleeders on each caliper? how much/long? - a full reservoir worth? (single pot, '66 brake system) - more?
is there any other part of the system that is not flushed this way and only would get flushed by using the brake pedal (or bench bleeding the m/c)?
is it sufficient to pull new fluid through the bleeders on each caliper?
Sufficient? Weeelllllllll, you could do this and the brakes will work. You won't get all the benefits of DOT 5, though, because there will still be some DOT 3/4 in the system.
Better to flush with alcohol and compressed air,... maybe a couple of times.