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I have one screw hole in the rear glass interior trim. Is there a easy way to fix this? I was thinking to fill with epoxy then redrill.
Shemp
If you're saying that one of the holes for a garnish molding attaching screw is stripped/enlarged, the little tapered plastic drywall anchors work great for non-stressed trim attachments like that.
If you're saying that one of the holes for a garnish molding attaching screw is stripped/enlarged, the little tapered plastic drywall anchors work great for non-stressed trim attachments like that.
Thanks John, I can't believe I didn't think of that being that I am a home improvement contractor. Shemp
I can't remember what they are called, but they make a screw to fix that problem. The screw has the same size head, but the shank is larger, so it will tighten in the stripped out hole.
Another method I discovered is to use the 2 part epoxy putty (available at Home Depot, Lowes ect...) and fill the hole. Smooth with a wet finger, let dry, drill a 7/64 hole and put your original screw back in. I like working with the putty since there is no chance it can drip on the interior. Pilot Dan
Try putting a zip tie or two into the hole. When the screw is secure, trim off the ends of the tie. This works well for tapcon blue screws in concrete when the hole is just a little too big for the screw. Jerry
There is a kit for this that is carried by most of the Corvette parts houses. It's a bunch of metal strips, about 3/4" by 2", with 3 holes in them. The idea is to drill the fiberglass and pop rivet the metal strip over the stripped hole so the screw now threads into the metal strip. I did this to all of the window surround mounting holes when I redid the interior. I bought the kit, but one could obviously make what they need from thin sheetmetal from Home Depot.
If the stripped screw is threading to metal, push on the head of the screw with your screwdriver. If you feel resistance, bump the end of the screwdriver with the heel of your hand, then just run the screw in as normal.
Bumping the screwdriver handle will push the metal back together so the screw can get a bite on it if it hasn't been enlarged too much.
A metal paper clip works too....but the epoxy makes it more like original. I think the metal pop rivet plates are pretty lame. You are going to drill 2-3 more holes to fix one...never made sense to me.
A little trick I use occasionally on my metal aircraft skin and other non- heavy aluminum is to cut a piece of aluminum pop can into a strip about 1" long and about 1/8" wide. Place in the screw hole, hold while running in the screw. It can be tightened about as tight as you want without problems. Most never again fall out, and are easily removable should the need arise.
what's a 'pop can'???? Don't understand that here in NYC..
On this forum, we're ALL guilty of slamming bubba fixes. We talk about the right way to do something, and then provide information to do it the wrong way!!! If you have a fiberglass hole that is stripped, don't put a friggin blue plastic thing in it. Every time I get a car with those damn things, it makes my blood boil. The point is, we're all driving the coolest cars out there, so why bring bubba into the equation......FIX IT RIGHT!! A little glass, and some resin, and it's like new. OK, I'm off my soapbox.
A metal paper clip works too....but the epoxy makes it more like original. I think the metal pop rivet plates are pretty lame. You are going to drill 2-3 more holes to fix one...never made sense to me.
Frankie, I paper clip falls into the same category as noted above, and.........The metal plates are "stock" on all of the midyear cars. That's why they added them.
Mike Coletta Do it right the first time, and then you don't have to do it again.
I have been doing the paper clip trick for decades
re glassing the hole is just plain a waste of time for something no one is going to see in the next 15 yrs, it is a hole behind a trim panel, I could care less if a tampon string was hanging out of it, if the screw tightens, does not fall out, and the repair is not detectable, the it is a repair well done.
I guess I should be using a tourque wrench on all these interior fasteners too
paperclips... For years and they work. I am a little afraid of the plastic dry wall anchors.. Worried that when you go to pull the screw that the anchor will just turn in the hole. Epoxy and mending plates seem like a lot of work for a hidden hole..
From: On the bank of the Columbia River..... Washington State
Originally Posted by Donny Brass
I have been doing the paper clip trick for decades
re glassing the hole is just plain a waste of time for something no one is going to see in the next 15 yrs, it is a hole behind a trim panel, I could care less if a tampon string was hanging out of it, if the screw tightens, does not fall out, and the repair is not detectable, the it is a repair well done.
I guess I should be using a tourque wrench on all these interior fasteners too