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Do i need to remove my distributor to change VAC? I'm changing from B1 to B28 in a '65 365. Also, when timing recently I had to rotate the distributor to the point that the VAC is tight against the manifold, but i still don't have 36* total timing. Will changing to B28 solve this, or do i need to rotate the drive gear 180*? Thanks for any input.
Do i need to remove my distributor to change VAC? I'm changing from B1 to B28 in a '65 365. Also, when timing recently I had to rotate the distributor to the point that the VAC is tight against the manifold, but i still don't have 36* total timing. Will changing to B28 solve this, or do i need to rotate the drive gear 180*? Thanks for any input.
you can change the can without pulling the dist.
if you are hitting the manifold you are off a tooth or the gear is off, go one tooth CLOCKWISE
no, changing the can will not correctly phase the dist.
How do I do that? Looks like I need to remove the breaker plate, or at least raise it up to get the arm of the can in the hole in the plate.
When I had the car tuned last Fall, the guy said my distributor was one tooth off then so he corrected it. But now when I'm trying to get total timing set I have the conflict with the manifold. How do I move it one tooth?
62Jeff is correct. Apply vacuum to the can and that will pull the breaker plate out of the way enough to get to the back mounting screw.
However, since you want to move the distributor one tooth, the whole distributor has to come out anyway. Remove the distributor clamp, and make a mental note or a mark on the manifold where the rotor is pointing. Then slowly lift up the distributor. As you do that, the rotor will turn counterclockwise. Note where the rotor is pointing when it stops turning and the distributor comes out.
Now, get a long screwdriver. Stick that down the hole where the distributor came out, and move it around until you feel it drop into the slot in the oil pump driveshaft. Turn the driveshaft about 45 degrees clockwise. Then start putting the distributor back in. Position the rotor about 45 degrees clockwise from where it was pointing when you removed it. If everything is lined up, the distributor will drop back into place, and the rotor will be pointing 45 degrees clockwise from the mark you made on the manifold.
Chances are that the distributor will end up sitting a half inch or so above the manifold. That's because the oil pump driveshaft and the tab on the bottom of the distributor aren't aligned. Either use a socket wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the engine over, or bump the starter, and the distributor should drop into place. Then it's just a matter of setting the timing.
62Jeff is correct. Apply vacuum to the can and that will pull the breaker plate out of the way enough to get to the back mounting screw.
However, since you want to move the distributor one tooth, the whole distributor has to come out anyway. .
Nope, if you want to move that unit by one toooth? You pull it slightly up just enough to feel the next tooth. Then you will have to bump the starter to make it seat properly into the pump slot..
My old aftermarket cam (comp cams) required me to index the dist. gear 180 degrees (dimple opposite rotor tip) from factory setting. Do one thing at a time so you don't lose your place. Start by finding the proper position. Then change your can. Thats how I do it anyhow.