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I went with the 3M clear bra material. It's been on for 3 years and looks great. My car is sunfire yellow and it's hardly noticeable. I also did the rear quarter. panels behind the rear tires. No chips and everything wipes right off.
Cost was about 500. but well worth it.
Dennis
Use anythng else and you run a VERY good chance of paint damage. I stop using the bra back in my Porsche days. The damage from the bra is worse than the nicks and bugs. IMHO.
I have MAJOR road construction all around my house including the biggest Florida turnpike interchange built so far......forum members that visit me can attest to the mess the roads are at my house...every excursion out of the neighborhood is a chance for damage of some sort.
Sooooo.... I run the bra all the time at all kinds of speeds in all kinds of conditions...never so much as a scratch or dulling of the paint at all anywhere. If installed correctly these C1 bras do not move. The felt backing is really good to the finish and the edges are soft material as well. If you look at the picture in post #5 above of a correctly installed bra -- there is no way that is going to shift around.
One of my better $100 investments.
What is amazing is that I expected to see dings, etc. appear on the unprotected headlight buckets and unprotected lower front valence that remain exposed. Weirdly that just isn't the case...these cars seem to take all the damage around the CORVETTE lettering on the nose...just what this bra covers up. Guess its just the car's shape and/or aerodynamics.
You have to trim the straps after you first get it cuz they are way too long.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Apr 8, 2011 at 05:54 PM.
Again, I run the bra all the time at all kinds of speeds in all kinds of conditions...never so much as a scratch or dulling of the paint at all anywhere. If installed correctly these C1 bras do not move. The felt backing is really good to the finish and the edges are soft material as well. If you look at the picture in post #5 above of a correctly installed bra -- there is no way that is going to shift around.
What is amazing is that I expected to see dings, etc. appear on the unprotected headlight buckets and unprotected lower front valence. Weirdly that just isn't the case...these cars seem to take all the damage around the CORVETTE lettering on the nose...just what this bra covers up. Guess its just the car's shape and/or aerodynamics.
You have to trim the straps after you first get it cuz they are way too long.
I am glad it doesn't rub the paint on your C1. Having spent almost 20 yrs in the detail business. I can tell you bras do scratch most cars. Especially at high speeds. You can go into all the procedures to keep them from scratching. Some may be effective.
To me the bra is also a huge pain in the butt. Get caught in the rain? Remove right away or your paint will milk over. Keep them clean is another big issue. They hold tons of grit and they end up stinking of dead bugs. etc...
I personally don't care for them.
Last edited by MiguelsC2; Apr 8, 2011 at 05:47 PM.
Well - I've only been in the bra business for about a year (except for some youthful indiscretions in high school) so I'll take your word on the issues....I just haven't seen 'em yet.
Well - I've only been in the bra business for about a year (except for some youthful indiscretions in high school) so I'll take your word on the issues....I just haven't seen 'em yet.
One Caveat. I gave up on bras in the 80s. I have been out of the detail biz since the late 90s.
Fastners and materials have changed. My evaluations might be a bit dated.
I am sorry. I didn't realize you were selling them. I wasn't trying to slam your biz.
I'm NOT selling them Tex....I was trying to make a lame joke...evidently I didn't pull it off.
I don't sell any car parts other than some odd bits on eBay maybe twice a year !!
They have a very talented tech here. You need to find a Shop that has a tech that knows how to work with the product. I watched him for a while and he is a real artist. He has been working with the material for sometime and has been to a 3M school.
I watched him massage the material over the nose and fenders, he made it look easy. They do all kind of classics as well as new cars that are pre cut. I would find a shop that installs it on hot rods and classics, and you'll find a tech that knows how to work with the material.
They finished my car tonight. It took more than 12 hours but it looks fantastic. I had the front end and the area around all four wheel wells done. This new stuff (NANO FUSION) is so clear and smooth you can barely see it. The guy that did mine does demos at the SEMA show for the manufacturer. There is no pre cut for a C2 Corvette so it was each piece custom fit. It cost $756.00 so it isn't cheap but it is next to invisible. I was told that not many installers want to do custom work, they will only do the pre cut stuff.
I am glad it doesn't rub the paint on your C1. Having spent almost 20 yrs in the detail business. I can tell you bras do scratch most cars. Especially at high speeds. You can go into all the procedures to keep them from scratching. Some may be effective.
To me the bra is also a huge pain in the butt. Get caught in the rain? Remove right away or your paint will milk over. Keep them clean is another big issue. They hold tons of grit and they end up stinking of dead bugs. etc...
I personally don't care for them.
the $150 or so I spent on my Wardlow Bra was money well spent, been on my '56 a bunch of times, and AGAIN if you put it on tight and keep it clean, NO ISSUES, as for the rain, the photo in post #9 is my car IN THE RAIN at 70 MPH as it has been many times and there is no issues with the bra and rain, simply take it off when you arrive and dry it out, no fogging unless you're a dufus and leave it on for days I suppose ..
I am glad it doesn't rub the paint on your C1. Having spent almost 20 yrs in the detail business. I can tell you bras do scratch most cars. Especially at high speeds. Get caught in the rain? Remove right away or your paint will milk over.
all I do is keep mine skin tight and keep the paint waxed, and I have no problems - absolutely NO paint damage from the mask.
Keep them clean is another big issue. They hold tons of grit and they end up stinking of dead bugs. etc...
I use armorall on the mask once a year in spring and the bugs fall off all summer. The only way grit gets under my mask is if the car is dirty and it stands in the rain with water running in the trough along the top of the fender toward the front of the car. I try remember to remove it if the car will be standing outside after a hard days ride and the forecast calls for overnight rain - or if it is already raining when I stop for the night, I put a rag under the edge of the mask at each fender trough to keep dirt out.
Of course, most of you wouldn't consider driving in the rain, but NCRS National Tours and Power Tours have lots of rainy days.
Just a note. I tried to get one like Magic's and if I recall Zip does not carry that one any more. I really like the fit and the cut-out around the stinger on the nose of Dave's mask. I thought I was getting the same thing from Willcox but the one I received covers the bumpers as well (unless I was not laying it out correctly). Haven't installed it because I'd rather have one that does not cover the bumpers in a one-piece set up.
Dave Z
Dave, You have the raw material to turn this:
into this:
by cutting as shown and sewing along the white lines:
or if your sewing machine can't handle it, the local upholster has a big one. I bought an old Singer with a steel frame just to do seatbelts and masks.
They have a very talented tech here. You need to find a Shop that has a tech that knows how to work with the product. I watched him for a while and he is a real artist. He has been working with the material for sometime and has been to a 3M school.
I watched him massage the material over the nose and fenders, he made it look easy. They do all kind of classics as well as new cars that are pre cut. I would find a shop that installs it on hot rods and classics, and you'll find a tech that knows how to work with the material.
Dennis
Sorry for being so ignorant about this particular product but is this a permanent fixture or is it removable and re-usable?
Sorry for being so ignorant about this particular product but is this a permanent fixture or is it removable and re-usable?
Thanks
Joe
Joe, it stays on permanently. You have to look very hard to see it. It can be removed without hurting the paint but it couldn't be used again. There is a product called Road Wrap that you apply before going on a trip and the peel off and throw away when you get there, it is better than nothing if you are worried about paint chips.
I have one thing to add though. I had them apply the material to protect the lid where the convertible top sits on,to avoid the scuffing and damage you get. It worked great, however the rubber seal transferred a black stain to the material, I tried everything, nothing would remove the discoloration, and since it was not made for this use 3M had no suggestions.
To protect the lid with the top up I found a seal that I place between the lid and the top, It acts like a buffer besides a seal and so far no problem.
To remove the material you need to get under a edge and pull forward, that breaks the connection and off it comes.
One bit of info. I saw a car that had been buffed out with a clay bar. It left a line at the edge were the two surfaces meet. The tech had to trim the edge to get rid of it.
Dennis
I THINK I still have one of the Wolf masks for a midyear as well as for a '70. This is not the sales section, so I won't post it for sale. But if anyone is interested in acquiring one, PM me.