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Best jacking point

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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Default Best jacking point

I want to lift the rear of my c2 and place it on jackstands. What is the best place to jack the car from? I am thinking the lower bracket that holds the rear spring in place, or perhaps the cradle-like bracket just forward of the spring shackle? Thanks in advance!
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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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I have a long floor jack and use cross member in front of the snubber bushing - where the brake line runs from one side to the other. I've seen people use the places you are talking about. Some of it may depend on the size/shape of your floor jack "pad".

larry
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Old May 14, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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Your profile says you have a 1967 Sting Ray

the owners manual lists jacking points only on side frame rails:

3 inches before the rail ends at the rear wheel opening

5 inches in front of leading edge of the door

which is just as you see the Sting Ray on the jacket cover of Noland Adams Tech Manual, and the only places I support my roadster.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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It's best to use the frame rails, although I have placed a block under the rear leaf spring pad and jacked it from there. The risk with that is the jack handle gets VERY close to the rear valence panel. You'll hit it if you're not careful.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Clark
I want to lift the rear of my c2 and place it on jackstands. What is the best place to jack the car from? I am thinking the lower bracket that holds the rear spring in place, or perhaps the cradle-like bracket just forward of the spring shackle? Thanks in advance!
I use the areas that you have mentioned for jacking. I also... depending on what type of work I am performing on the car which is causing me to install jack stands...I will locate them in two areas. One is on the frame rail just before the end of it in front of your rear wheel....that is if I am doing rear suspension/brake work. The other is using the wide area on the rotor where your parking brake shoes ride. I re-install the lug nuts and snug them well and place the curved saddle of my jack stand in this area. NOW... understand that I have modified sliding plates much like those used on an alignment rack...that when these plates are placed UNDER my jack stand...they allow the jack stands to slide outward and level the car under the normal conditions if it were on the ground. I have been doing it both ways since 1985...and never have had a incident.

"DUB"
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Old May 14, 2011 | 06:12 PM
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Well Im sure someone will disagree with me on this one but if I want to lift the hole rear up to put it on jack stands I just put the floor jack under the spring pad under the differential. Then put the jack stands on the frame rails right behind the door. I have heard that my position of the jack is not a good idea but been doing it on both of my midyears since 1970 and no problems.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by needforspeed150
Well Im sure someone will disagree with me on this one but if I want to lift the hole rear up to put it on jack stands I just put the floor jack under the spring pad under the differential. Then put the jack stands on the frame rails right behind the door. I have heard that my position of the jack is not a good idea but been doing it on both of my midyears since 1970 and no problems.
I don't know why anyone would want to disagree unless they just wanted to be contrary. That is the very point on the chassis that carries the full weight of the rear of the car.

You gotta' be a little careful that you don't pinch an exhaust pipe or hit your spare tire carrier with the jack pad.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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I also use a floor jack under the rear spring where it attaches to the rear end. I use a 2X4 between the jack and the spring. Then I place my jack stands at the rear side rails where you are supposed to jack the car up. I do the same for the front and use the front cross member, a 2X4, and floor jack. Then place jack stands at the front rails where you are supposed to jack the car up.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by needforspeed150
Well Im sure someone will disagree with me on this one but if I want to lift the hole rear up to put it on jack stands I just put the floor jack under the spring pad under the differential. Then put the jack stands on the frame rails right behind the door. I have heard that my position of the jack is not a good idea but been doing it on both of my midyears since 1970 and no problems.
Same place I do it.....never a problem
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Old May 14, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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I'm not disagreeing, since it's each owners car to jack up wherever they want.

That said, the chance of damaging the spare tire tub, the valence and possibly the differential cover is greater if the diff is jacked. The diff covers do crack, and while the spring supporting half the weight of the car is directly under the cover, the diff is not, and jacking under it puts the load at an angle to the cover ears.

The cover is no fun to change, and mine is not one of the "stronger" aftermarket versions; rather it is an original with a matching date code. The tub is expensive, and mine is undamaged. I choose to take the time.

Last edited by magicv8; May 14, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 06:46 AM
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Funny title, my first response was "On a man or a woman?"
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Old May 15, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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Default What spare tire

Originally Posted by magicv8
I'm not disagreeing, since it's each owners car to jack up wherever they want.

That said, the chance of damaging the spare tire tub, the valence and possibly the differential cover is greater if the diff is jacked. The diff covers do crack, and while the spring supporting half the weight of the car is directly under the cover, the diff is not, and jacking under it puts the load at an angle to the cover ears.

The cover is no fun to change, and mine is not one of the "stronger" aftermarket versions; rather it is an original with a matching date code. The tub is expensive, and mine is undamaged. I choose to take the time.
When I put my post in I completely forgot about the spare tire tub. I dont run the tub in mine just because a spare that works for my car doesnt fit inside.. Yeh it makes it a lot easier to get to everything lol
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Old May 15, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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I use the spring plate in the rear with a 2x3 between the jack pad and the spring mounting plate. This is exactly where the rear suspension load is applied, so it's safe as a jack point, and the 2x3 protects the spare tire carrier. In the front, I use the crossmember, using a 2x4 to bridge it front to rear to prevent damaging the metal there. That's to jack it up. (like Kensmith)

The jack stands go where the factory suggests, Magicv8s four points plus there are two more you can use shown in the shop manual, on the forward most extensions of the frame rail, where the sway bar mounts.

Harry

Last edited by 66since71; May 15, 2011 at 11:54 AM.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by magicv8
I'm not disagreeing, since it's each owners car to jack up wherever they want.

That said, the chance of damaging the spare tire tub, the valence and possibly the differential cover is greater if the diff is jacked. The diff covers do crack, and while the spring supporting half the weight of the car is directly under the cover, the diff is not, and jacking under it puts the load at an angle to the cover ears.

The cover is no fun to change, and mine is not one of the "stronger" aftermarket versions; rather it is an original with a matching date code. The tub is expensive, and mine is undamaged. I choose to take the time.
I have to disagree with your explanation in the second paragraph. Regardless of where you lift the rear end of the car....the rear leaf spring is going to drop...and if the rear differential cover is going to crack...it will crack ( and would more than likely show that it has been cracked for some time due to rust in the crack)..and the lifting point makes no difference...due to the spring will decompress and cause stress to be applied to the weaker outer ears on a factory rear differential cover. This is why when torquing your rear leaf spring bolts...the car must be down on the ground...so the leaf spring will "flatten" out and allow you to correctly torque these bolts and not increase the chance of cracking/breaking off the ears of the rear differential cover due to the arch in the spring when it is still lifted off the ground.

"DUB"
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Old May 16, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 66since71
I use the spring plate in the rear with a 2x3 between the jack pad and the spring mounting plate. This is exactly where the rear suspension load is applied, so it's safe as a jack point, and the 2x3 protects the spare tire carrier. In the front, I use the crossmember, using a 2x4 to bridge it front to rear to prevent damaging the metal there. That's to jack it up. (like Kensmith)

The jack stands go where the factory suggests, Magicv8s four points plus there are two more you can use shown in the shop manual, on the forward most extensions of the frame rail, where the sway bar mounts.

Harry
.. Hard to see from behind, initially, but placing the jack pad just in front of the spare tire tub flange, with a section of 2 x 4 (or 2 x 3) centered on the jack pad, will place the lift point fairly well centered directly underneath the leaf spring.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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Well i remember when i was about 14-15 years old looking at a person jacking up the front of his car placing the jack on the oil pan.
Not the best place to jack up the front of the car
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Old May 16, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Remember the days when there was a little notch in the bumper that the jack fit into and the bumper was the jacking point?
( I am not referring to Corvettes!)
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