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I have a 66 C2 coupe with electric windows and the pass window is stuck in the down position. I have checked the switch in the center console it is good, checked the wire up to the point where it goes into the door interior it is good. There is a power draw that dims the lights in the down position but not power draw in the up position. With the window in the full down position it is impossible to get a hand into the door frame to remove the window from the door assembly by the removal of what appears to be two 7/16 nuts one on each side of the track.
I have tried reverse polarity power on the down wire with the cars battery disconnected using an aux power source thinking that might reverse the motor and make the window go up but without success.
Now the only option I can think of is to drill some new holes lower down toward the base of the door to remove the two 7/16 nuts from the window track assembly Thus allowing the removal of the window and access to the electric motor.
It still could be the switch.If lights don't dim in up position try a new switch. That's how we checked for inop windows. Most of the time switch's where defictive.
I have removed the panel from the other side and the window on the drivers side is loose enough to pull from the channel. Wish I was lucky enough to have the same thing on the passangers side. I will give it another try.
Drilling the extra holes is what I had to resort to when my driver window stuck in the down position. Turned out that the brush in the motor had gone kaput.
I've attached a PDF outlining what I had to do. Might be of some use to you. I could not get the side glass out either probably because it had new grip tape put in a few years back.
before taking things apart (assuming its not the motor) try spraying (with nozzle) into interior of door mechansim with wd 40 / This worked for me (freed sticking parts) good luck, Abe G
before taking things apart (assuming its not the motor) try spraying (with nozzle) into interior of door mechansim with wd 40 / This worked for me (freed sticking parts) good luck, Abe G
I have drilled the holes and removed the electric motor mechanism. Much fun to say the least. With the motor disconnected and out I have checked the power to the motor connectors and that checks out correct. So the switch is good and the connector to the switch is good and the ground for the motor is good. Therefore, I have power to the system. I have also jumped the motor and now it works as well. The connector to the motor crumbled but the connectors themselves were clean and bright and held tight to the motor terminals.
I have noticed that the spring in the mechanism is quite heavy. If I open the motor to look at the brushes I'm afraid the pretension on the mechanism generated by the spring will be released and difficult to recover. I noticed that one of the mounting screws lines up with a hole in the main arm gear. If I run a 1/4 - 20 through the mounting hole and into the hole in the gear I'm assuming that will maintain the spring tension and allow the motor to be removed and examined. Is this a correct assumption. I wish to personally thank everyone who has provided input on this problem. You all have been helpful and I appreciate your willingness to help me resolve this issue
I noticed that one of the mounting screws lines up with a hole in the main arm gear. If I run a 1/4 - 20 through the mounting hole and into the hole in the gear I'm assuming that will maintain the spring tension and allow the motor to be removed and examined. Is this a correct assumption.
Yes, it is - and it wll avoid the steel arm slicing off the end of your finger when it lets go. Do you have the '66 Chassis Service Manual? The "Corvette Body" section covers the power window regulator removal in detail, including the "Safety Item" warning and a photo of installing the 1/4"-20 bolt.
John Thanks for the input. I don't have the 66 manual but I do have the 69 manual for my other car. Thanks for your input it confirmed my thinking and I will get the 66 manual
Thanks for the motor detail pictures. I tested the motor with the unit out of the car with a spare battery and the motor worked well in both directions. I did use a 1/4 20 bolt to lock the system and I have removed the motor from the unit and checked it out. The brushes were all good and the motor was clean. I did undercut the communitator and polish the communitator with 150 grit paper. I have tested the window switches both good, I have tested the power to the connectors in the door and power arrives there using my volt meter, and I have tested the motor for operation and it works in both directions. The only thing I found is the slack adjustment screw on the nose of the motor was quite loose so I reset the slack on the worm shaft.
Personally I would have liked to find something wrong but I didn't so it bothers me to reassemble the whole system and hope it continues to work.
My one problem is that I destroyed the green connector when it was removed from the motor. It simply crumbled when I touched it. The back side and the locking ear are literally gone. Do you know of any replacement part I can get for this connector? If not I will use heat shrink tubing on the connectors to isolate them. Thanks again Mark
Thanks for the input on the connector. I did not see them in any of the major corvette suppliers catalogs. I'm still at a loss as to why the motor works with it out of the car and all the other components check out with power to the terminals. The only thing I can think of is the free play adjustment on the worm was way out allowing the armature to move at the end of the movement.