Solid state voltage regulator
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Pro
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From: Prescott AZ
Solid state voltage regulator
Curious if anyone here has any experiences with converting there voltage regulator to a solid state unit. Saw an ad in the Driveline magazine about such a conversion. $195. So i'm wondering if it's money well spent or not.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Jim
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Army
I've heard about the difference in operation in solid-state V/Rs...maybe that occurs in the alternator versions. The solid-state generator conversion for my '61 acts precisely as the old mechanical one did in every respect -- there is no "snapping" up of the ammeter gauge at a certain RPM or anything like that.
Maybe its the old C1 gauges...or the nature of the conversion or both but if anybody could tell a difference in solid-state vs mechanical on my car they must be psychic.
Maybe its the old C1 gauges...or the nature of the conversion or both but if anybody could tell a difference in solid-state vs mechanical on my car they must be psychic.
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Jim
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Army
Hmmm...not sure how I reconcile that against your post #5 in this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...erator-ok.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...erator-ok.html
Le Mans Master
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I stand by my statement in that post because it is correct "you'll be docked points for having a solid state VR as they react too quickly compared to the old mechanical ones.
The solid state ones react to changes instantaneously. The mechanical VR will show a voltage drop before the relay opens/closes and then a spike as it opens/closes. The solid state VR will show none of these fluctuations or "snapping" as you call them.
No need to be psychic to tell the difference. It's as easy as telling the difference between an original clock vs. a quartz conversion.
Jim
The solid state ones react to changes instantaneously. The mechanical VR will show a voltage drop before the relay opens/closes and then a spike as it opens/closes. The solid state VR will show none of these fluctuations or "snapping" as you call them.
No need to be psychic to tell the difference. It's as easy as telling the difference between an original clock vs. a quartz conversion.
Jim
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I have a c1. So is it plug and play. I was told I need an adapter. ? And how does it work on the generator not an alternator and if no plug is required how do you wire it
Last edited by fireofficer001; Jul 5, 2013 at 10:36 AM.
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Army
If you get the Wilton C1 conversion: http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx it is plug and play with one exception - do NOT 'flash the field'; e.g. "polarize" the charging system when you install it. It's hell on integrated circuits and almost never required anyway. This conversion ONLY works on a generator which is why the C2 conversions won't work on a C1...to date Wilton is the only one that does the generator conversion.
No adapter needed...wires up just like the old one. You do have to send in your old V/R so that the conversion can be properly installed, hidden and made invisible.
I have the first C1 conversion this fella did, been running it for like 5 years now and not a single issue. And, regardless of what some may say; it is indistinguishable from the stock V/R ... it does not operate in a jerky or 'digital' fashion like the C2 conversions. You, nor anyone else, simply will not know that it's solid state.
No adapter needed...wires up just like the old one. You do have to send in your old V/R so that the conversion can be properly installed, hidden and made invisible.
I have the first C1 conversion this fella did, been running it for like 5 years now and not a single issue. And, regardless of what some may say; it is indistinguishable from the stock V/R ... it does not operate in a jerky or 'digital' fashion like the C2 conversions. You, nor anyone else, simply will not know that it's solid state.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 5, 2013 at 11:02 AM.
Drifting
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From: Des Moines, Iowa, USA Iowa
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Army
That's a really nice job. Again, the C1 is different and you just install two mounting screws; connect three wires to the V/R terminals and you're "good to go". Everything else is already done for you by the company doing the conversion. I run power windows, and, a 750W stereo amp off my old, original generator and use high beams a lot - not a single issue.
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I'm probably in the minority here but I prefer the old, mechanical points regulators. I've had several of the solid state regulators go bad on my old cars and have gone back to mechanical ones. Of course I'm one of the few guys that sees no reason to replace perfectly good ignition points with an electronic conversion kit.
At least when something goes wrong I get a little sense of well being and potential hope when I can pop the cover or distributor cap and examine the points in hope of finding some reason for the problem. I hate pulling a cover off something and being faced with a printed circuit board or sealed box.
At least when something goes wrong I get a little sense of well being and potential hope when I can pop the cover or distributor cap and examine the points in hope of finding some reason for the problem. I hate pulling a cover off something and being faced with a printed circuit board or sealed box.
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Army
I run the original WCFB dual quads, king pin, centerlink front end, a generator, original C1 windshield wipers/washers, etc.. I'd say I'm a pretty 'hard core', old school guy.
But when it makes sense, I incorporate reasonable improvements. Electronic ignition, solid state V/R, satellite radio, disc brakes, radial tires, a PCV system, headlight relays, etc. None of which has given me the first problem in over 30,000 miles in the '61.
But you have to pick your own poison!
But when it makes sense, I incorporate reasonable improvements. Electronic ignition, solid state V/R, satellite radio, disc brakes, radial tires, a PCV system, headlight relays, etc. None of which has given me the first problem in over 30,000 miles in the '61.
But you have to pick your own poison!
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Besides, a properly tuned old car will run at least 15,000 miles of hard use before needing a tune up. And another thing, I like doing tune ups.
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The electronic ignition and solid state reg. were one of the few things I chose to go modern on. My headlights don't pulse at low rpm anymore.
Although I am fully versed in points adjusting. I say good riddance. Been ditching points since my first car 74 Z-28. Ran a Mallory uni-lite on that.
The igniter II I use in my C2 is trouble free.
Although I am fully versed in points adjusting. I say good riddance. Been ditching points since my first car 74 Z-28. Ran a Mallory uni-lite on that.
The igniter II I use in my C2 is trouble free.
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Army
Well good.
We haven't had an "old codger" vs "young whippersnapper" go round in a couple of months. It's overdue...
Excuse me...I have to get up and whack the top of my 19" black and white Zenith TV to get the horizontal hold to synch up.
We haven't had an "old codger" vs "young whippersnapper" go round in a couple of months. It's overdue...
Excuse me...I have to get up and whack the top of my 19" black and white Zenith TV to get the horizontal hold to synch up.
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From: Central Arkansas
