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Curious if anyone here has any experiences with converting there voltage regulator to a solid state unit. Saw an ad in the Driveline magazine about such a conversion. $195. So i'm wondering if it's money well spent or not.
Thanks.
Curious if anyone here has any experiences with converting there voltage regulator to a solid state unit. Saw an ad in the Driveline magazine about such a conversion. $195. So i'm wondering if it's money well spent or not.
Thanks.
That's to convert your existing "correct" regulator (install new guts, using the original base) so it won't get any deductions in judging. If judging isn't in your plan, you can get a solid-state regulator at AutoZone for less than $20.00, and you can install your Delco cover on it.
That's to convert your existing "correct" regulator (install new guts, using the original base) so it won't get any deductions in judging.
Unless the car goes for the Performance Verification. The amp meter operation difference is very obvious when using a solid state vs. electro-mechanical regulator.
I've heard about the difference in operation in solid-state V/Rs...maybe that occurs in the alternator versions. The solid-state generator conversion for my '61 acts precisely as the old mechanical one did in every respect -- there is no "snapping" up of the ammeter gauge at a certain RPM or anything like that.
Maybe its the old C1 gauges...or the nature of the conversion or both but if anybody could tell a difference in solid-state vs mechanical on my car they must be psychic.
The solid-state generator conversion for my '61 acts precisely as the old mechanical one did in every respect -- there is no "snapping" up of the ammeter gauge at a certain RPM or anything like that.
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The "snapping" IS how the old mechanical ones worked as it's points opening and closing that causes it. Yours "not snapping" is clearly an indication of a solid state VR.
I stand by my statement in that post because it is correct "you'll be docked points for having a solid state VR as they react too quickly compared to the old mechanical ones.
The solid state ones react to changes instantaneously. The mechanical VR will show a voltage drop before the relay opens/closes and then a spike as it opens/closes. The solid state VR will show none of these fluctuations or "snapping" as you call them.
No need to be psychic to tell the difference. It's as easy as telling the difference between an original clock vs. a quartz conversion.
I have a c1. So is it plug and play. I was told I need an adapter. ? And how does it work on the generator not an alternator and if no plug is required how do you wire it
Last edited by fireofficer001; Jul 5, 2013 at 10:36 AM.
If you get the Wilton C1 conversion: http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx it is plug and play with one exception - do NOT 'flash the field'; e.g. "polarize" the charging system when you install it. It's hell on integrated circuits and almost never required anyway. This conversion ONLY works on a generator which is why the C2 conversions won't work on a C1...to date Wilton is the only one that does the generator conversion.
No adapter needed...wires up just like the old one. You do have to send in your old V/R so that the conversion can be properly installed, hidden and made invisible.
I have the first C1 conversion this fella did, been running it for like 5 years now and not a single issue. And, regardless of what some may say; it is indistinguishable from the stock V/R ... it does not operate in a jerky or 'digital' fashion like the C2 conversions. You, nor anyone else, simply will not know that it's solid state.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 5, 2013 at 11:02 AM.
Curious if anyone here has any experiences with converting there voltage regulator to a solid state unit.
Yes, I converted mine, winter project on a slow day... My original Jan 1966 1119515 unit failed so I bought a solid state unit (Transpo D9212 eBay 20 bucks), used Dremel to carefully cut-out rectangular bottom of both regulators and then used JB Weld to fix the new (solid state) piece into my original Delco regulator. The red wire in the picture is a solid ground connection from original case to new solid state piece. Figured 20 dollar experiment more fun than paying $200 for one. Works 100% perfectly and appears as original
That's a really nice job. Again, the C1 is different and you just install two mounting screws; connect three wires to the V/R terminals and you're "good to go". Everything else is already done for you by the company doing the conversion. I run power windows, and, a 750W stereo amp off my old, original generator and use high beams a lot - not a single issue.
I'm probably in the minority here but I prefer the old, mechanical points regulators. I've had several of the solid state regulators go bad on my old cars and have gone back to mechanical ones. Of course I'm one of the few guys that sees no reason to replace perfectly good ignition points with an electronic conversion kit.
At least when something goes wrong I get a little sense of well being and potential hope when I can pop the cover or distributor cap and examine the points in hope of finding some reason for the problem. I hate pulling a cover off something and being faced with a printed circuit board or sealed box.
I run the original WCFB dual quads, king pin, centerlink front end, a generator, original C1 windshield wipers/washers, etc.. I'd say I'm a pretty 'hard core', old school guy.
But when it makes sense, I incorporate reasonable improvements. Electronic ignition, solid state V/R, satellite radio, disc brakes, radial tires, a PCV system, headlight relays, etc. None of which has given me the first problem in over 30,000 miles in the '61.
Bought soliod state unit from JC Whitney years ago for about $15, Has worked 100% for over 20 plus years! no adjustments necessary! Just plain works! just my 2 cents. Regards, Abe G
I'm probably in the minority here but I prefer the old, mechanical points regulators.
I'm with you. I've got 8 antiques and all are stock down to the points. For me it is these old technologies and the idiosyncratic behavior of the cars that results that makes it fun. Plenty O electronics in my wife's ML350 or my Sequoia. I like wiggling ameters and having to occasionaly reset points or clean them up.
Besides, a properly tuned old car will run at least 15,000 miles of hard use before needing a tune up. And another thing, I like doing tune ups.