Tampa Jerry

I agree with Critter, the shims should not fall out if the bushing is installed correctly. However, the shims in the photo have been modified to slip in place. The original 63 to 69 shims did not have a relief cut in them. On the early years, you had to install the shims correctly and put the bolt through them. A big PITA. In 1970, the shims were open ended and you could hammer them in place. They were held in place via a long single carter pin that went through both sides of the frame pocket. Since I don't care about originality, I used the second generation shims in stainless steel. I drilled the holes in the frame and used a heavy zip tie on each side to capture the shims in the event of a bushing failure. Looking at the post from 2012, does anyone know what happened to the Saint? Have not seen a posting from him in a ling time. Jerry

Rattenni

This is the info I was originally looking for and wanted to verify (there was a statement to this effect earlier in this thread). Also explains why the slots were cut into the shims I have.... to make installation possible with bolt in place while maintaining an original appearance. I am not a member of NCRS "yet" (just purchased this car last fall...will eventually join as I want to try again for another Top Flight). I also do not yet have the judging book, can anyone tell me what a Judge would expect to see on this install (I'm guessing bolt through hole with open shim slots pointing out?).

I also appreciate the info regarding proper bushing compression/installation, I had not factored that into my thought process.

I still need to inspect other side and then determine path forward... but this extra piece of information may influence the steps I take. The shim install was recently worked on to supposedly prepare the car for alignment. I think the technician thought the bolt through hole/slot to be incorrect ant rotated the shims to be open slot into the bolt. And without any pin to hold the shims they fell out. Now why they fell out is the question that needs answered (possible same technician did not torque everything correctly given his demonstrated lack of understanding of the install to begin with), or the bushing and sleeve is not properly pressed. Is there a way to inspect for proper bushing install without removing the trailing arm? If I have to remove the arm I should probably go ahead and replace the bushing anyway (car has been a trailer queen for more than 20 years since the original install and some dry rubber cracking can be seen, not bad but is slight and visible in pic).

I'm considering just reinstalling shims using the original "PITA" approach. I would probably need to go through a couple of iterations to align the trailing arm if I do this but shims will not fall out (or maybe go back to slots over bolt). I could also re-establish the slot shim install using something identical to my shim pic posted. I am aware that if I have a bushing issue this reinstall will only cover that up and rear end will be "sloppy" or move more than appropriate. And trust me I now know what rear end movement can do...driving this car home with no shims on one side was a bit scary!