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1965 327/365 w/ original drivetrain.
Last Sunday the car started slogging and stuttering on accelration. It ran fine the day before. I had no time to get into it until yesterday. I hooked up my dwell meter and dwell was at 35 vs. 30. I adjusted dwell, and checked timing which was right on. Went for a ride and it ran great for a few miles, then after being stopped at a light started stuttering again on acceleration - same symptoms. Took it home and dwell had slipped again to 35. This time I replaced the points and it seems to be running well again, though i didn't have much time to drive it after that.
Is this just points going bad? Or did something else cause them to slip out of adjustment twice? I only had about 300 miles on this set of points.
Also check the continuity while flexing the ground wire from the points plate to the housing ground - an internal break may cause intermittent misfiring.
Most of the above can be the fault, but it can also be the dist. shaft bushings have worn, allowing the points cam on the dist. shaft to change position. If the dwell keeps changing, then check for wear of the shaft / bushings. Try moving the shaft laterally in several directions (the bushing will probably wear egg shaped, and the wear may be more apparent in only one direction).
Anything is possible but I've had experience with a coouple Chryslerr cars with worn distributor bushings and typically the dwell will constantly fluctuate when watching the dwell meter. Worn GM distributors may act differently at idle but I doubt it. I recently had a FE ford motor broken in on the dyno and it had a similiar problem. Dwell slipped every time it was started. Points had plenty of lube. All we could figure was out was cheap points.
I've been running my 327 at 35 for a lifetime... I have never noticed any significant performance differnce as you describe between 30 and 35...
However, my recent similar acceleration problem turned out to be a spark plug wire that slipped loose and burnt thru on the exhaust manifold... it was sporadic but easily recognizable and solved...similar performance on a wire that has "slipped loose" from the plug
In my opinion, the BW points are the only ones which will RELIABLY run to 7000rpm consistently! However, I don't believe NCRS checks points (or lack thereof) SOOooo I can't understand why people would NOT upgrade to Pertronics or some other MODERN and RELIABLE ignition
In my opinion, the BW points are the only ones which will RELIABLY run to 7000rpm consistently! However, I don't believe NCRS checks points (or lack thereof) SOOooo I can't understand why people would NOT upgrade to Pertronics or some other MODERN and RELIABLE ignition
One reason is the one I like. I use standard points that will NOT rev to 7000.
I don't have to worry about getting excited some day and revving my engine to the moon, or missing a shift and doing same and risk breaking something.
My standard points shut the engine off at about 6100 rpm and that is fine with me. You can rev your stone age 327 to whatever you like and some ricer will still take you down like the Titanic so what's the porint?
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Originally Posted by MikeM
One reason is the one I like. I use standard points that will NOT rev to 7000.
I don't have to worry about getting excited some day and revving my engine to the moon, or missing a shift and doing same and risk breaking something.
My standard points shut the engine off at about 6100 rpm and that is fine with me. You can rev your stone age 327 to whatever you like and some ricer will still take you down like the Titanic so what's the porint?
Pertronix III has an adjustable rev limiter. I think it's 5500 out of the box and you can up from there if you like....or not.
One reason is the one I like. I use standard points that will NOT rev to 7000.
I don't have to worry about getting excited some day and revving my engine to the moon, or missing a shift and doing same and risk breaking something.
My standard points shut the engine off at about 6100 rpm and that is fine with me. You can rev your stone age 327 to whatever you like and some ricer will still take you down like the Titanic so what's the porint?
Sorry, my POINT is that MY car is a RACE car. That is, I rev to 7000+ EVERY shift! (I thought that was obvious?)
Sorry, my POINT is that MY car is a RACE car. That is, I rev to 7000+ EVERY shift! (I thought that was obvious?)
I don't think most posters here run their engines to 7000 every shift and yes it is obvious that you cater to modifications that will make your car faster on the track.
That is fine with me if Pertronix has a built in rev limiter but you won't be seeing a Pertronix or any electronic triggered ignition on any of my old cars as long as I own them. Nothing like being miles from nowhere, the engine shuts down and WTF?
Good info here - thanks. I will re-lube the plate and check continuity of ground wire. My dwell does not fluctuate, it just "jumped" suddenly, so i'm inclined to think it's not a worn distributor bushing, but i'll check that out. Still haven't had time to run the car around after last points change, but hopefully tonite.
Yeah - that never happens with points...the most knowledgeable techies (and trekkies) run Pertronix.
I won't attempt to defend my choice of ignition components to you and yer "knowledgeable techies and trekkies", whatever that means?) You and yer buddies can use whatever you want.
I've driven a million miles or so on ignition points. I had one set of points close up one time and the engine quit. I had a warning, just didn't heed it. I knew what to do and how to do it and was back on the road in a flash.
Didn't I read the other day that plug of yours laid down on you some time back and you had to have it flatbedded in because you couldn't get it running?
PS. I've NEVER walked because my points let me down but over the years, I've walked quite a few times when a car with electronically controlled ignition would not run and couldn't be properly diagnosed in the driveway or alongside the road. And so have many others.
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