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Everything has been going good with the car until the last 2 times out. This is a '62 with the original 174 Gen. and a new, repo mechanical voltage regulator. It starts fine, the amp. gauge will swing to about 10amps. for a short time and then go about a needle width on the plus side after than. Next thing you know, you look down and see about 15amp. discharge. All of a sudden it will swing to 15amp charge and about as fast return to about a needle width into the plus side. Sometimes when I shows discharge, I will tap the brakes to get the brake lights on and it will swing the needle into the charging range, after it was showing discharge. Sometimes turning the high beams on will do the same thing. I just expected to have a more stable needle on the amp gauge. I am suspecting a regulator problem instead of a gen. problem. Does anyone have any input? The battery is a 3yr. old Delco. and an outside meter shows it to be fully charged.
There are tests for the voltage regulator/generator operation...they are in either the Passenger Car Manual or the ST-12 I forget which... My guess would be the voltage regulator as the source of your problem. BTW - I went solid state with the regulator in my '61 and haven't had to mess with it for 3 years now....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Oct 17, 2011 at 09:42 PM.
Frank,
In the past, there have been discussions about solid state regulators for generators, but as I recall, nothing difinitive has ever been firmed up on the generator regulators (solid state regulators are available everywhere for alternators).
So, where did you get yours???
Frank,
In the past, there have been discussions about solid state regulators for generators, but as I recall, nothing difinitive has ever been firmed up on the generator regulators (solid state regulators are available everywhere for alternators).
So, where did you get yours???
Tom Parsons
There is only ONE source for solid-state voltage regulators for C1 GENERATOR cars. It is a 93 year old gentlemen in New Hampshire that does the conversions on your old regulator housing:
The old boy had only done a couple of these before he converted mine...I convinced him
there was money to made at it so now he even has a web site: http://www.wiltonae.com/faq/index.aspx
There are at least 5 forum members running these now that
followed my advice and converted since I had mine done 3 years ago.
My conversion cost $85 plus shipping.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Oct 17, 2011 at 11:28 PM.
I know you are a Pertronix fan Tom and this conversion is every bit as reliable and convenient as that one. Some say the V/R conversion won't pass NCRS PV judging because its too 'reactive' (and those folks haven't even see the conversion operate) . I can't tell a single difference in operation from the mechanical and, as for judging, I could not care less.
I know you are a Pertronix fan Tom and this conversion is every bit as reliable and convenient as that one. Some say the V/R conversion won't pass NCRS PV judging because its too 'reactive' (and those folks haven't even see the conversion operate) . I can't tell a single difference in operation from the mechanical and, as for judging, I could not care less.
Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, the 56 won't even do Third flight-------------or even Sportsman! And yes, the reason I know is because I've had it judged. I knew then that it would not Third Flight, but I just wanted to see where it would acutally fall in the points.
Three QUICK killers were incorrect paint, incorrect engine (SB400 w/FI and airbox) and ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL the chrome. And then there was a BUNCH of misc stuff like wrong interior color, column tach, HD brakes/suspension, wheels, tires, holes in the rear cross member for the trailer hitch, etc, etc, etc, etc. Man, you should have seen the judges cringe at the Regional in Joplin (back in the 90s).
So, an incorrect voltage regulator won't matter. I'll simply swap the chrome plated Delco cover on my existing regulator to the one that I send to Bob when it returns
There is only ONE source for solid-state voltage regulators for C1 GENERATOR cars. It is a 93 year old gentlemen in New Hampshire that does the conversions on your old regulator housing:
The old boy had only done a couple of these before he converted mine...I convinced him
there was money to made at it so now he even has a web site: http://www.wiltonae.com/faq/index.aspx
There are at least 5 forum members running these now that
followed my advice and converted since I had mine done 3 years ago.
My conversion cost $85 plus shipping.
Originally Posted by DZAUTO
OK, that's the only one that I remember as being a definitive source. I should probably contact him.
Just sent him an email.
Tom Parsons
I might be the latest to put the Solid State on an early car. The new replacement VR's are NOT adjustable any more and they are one size fits all (one regulator for 30, 35, and other Aperage Generators) and I found that with the Corvette 30 Amp Generator being at the bottom of the power output range, that the generic replacements did not charge well.
The Solid State conversion now runs $96.50 with shipping and is set up SPECIFICALLY FOR MY 30 AMP GENERATOR. Had it about a month now, and give it just had a second one done for a spare. Works great, I would recommend it! Pilot Dan
This is kind of timely / humorous : a week ago I took a spare rebuilt un-identified generator with an NOS / brand new Delco regulator to the starter generator rebuilder (GSA in Brampton for you Toronto area members) to be tested and adjusted to carry in my car for trip spares.
I had been aware of the solid state conversion from a previous thread on regulator adjustment (Frankie etc) but didn't have a used core to send for conversion
I will have to look for a donor regulator core to send to Wilton for converting.
Probably finding a suitable unit for conversion will be harder than buying a current (play on words ? LOL) aftermarket replacement.
Thanks for the help! The regulator is a replacement. I guess that is much more accurate than repo. Though, it appears to be like the original. Another new part that was new 3 yrs. and 2500 miles ago. Of course the '62 takes a 35 amp regulator, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Yeah I am somewhat sceptical of reproduction parts versus replacement parts.
Sometimes I think reproduction stuff is more esthetics focused than on functionality and long term performance.
The shop I deal with doesn't like setting up regulators too close to 30 amps, as he says that is the biggest culprit for generator failure - armature burn out.
Although I can't see what on our cars would cause the generator to run at 30 amps - Halogen headlights running on high beam ??