My '66, that I've owned since '68, developed this problem last fall. When the car is cold, it starts as easy as it always has, but if I drive it for a few minutes, turn the engine off and restart it, it sounds like the timing is advanced or the starter is extremely weak. If I leave it sit for maybe 15 minutes, there are no starting problems. I've been advised to rebuild the starter, but I'm leaning towards a problem with the vacuum advance. Any thoughts? :confused:


[Modified by Revette, 11:47 AM 5/11/2002]

 

First ensure that your battery cables are of proper wire gauge (not cheapy thin aftermarket type)and length (not a few feet too long) and that the connectors and terminals are squeaky clean, and that the cables are solidly attached at both ends. If the problem persists after that, I'd agree the starter needs to be checked.

 

The starter sounds more probable than a vacuum advance problem but make sure your battery cables are in good shape with good tight connections. Look for any signs of white powdery substance in the wire at the connections and pay special attention to the ground wire and it connection location. Should be at the stater itself on one of the mount bolts
You can satisfy your belief at it being the vacuum advance by disconnecting cold the vacuum advance hose and then taking it for a drive and seeing if you have the problem. With the hose disconnected it will never advance but I can't see why this would cause the starter to drag unless you have the mechanical stuck full advance. Just remove the distributor cap and and see if the rotor turns and then snap back after hitting there stops. If every thing is free ,look for an electrical problem.
LOL BOB

 

I agree with the others, more likely a starting system problem (or a combination of problems). Starters and batteries often wear out gradually without failing completely. I've seen starter draw increase to more than double what it was when new. The starter would work ok as long as the battery was strong enough. When hot, starter draw increases, requiring even more battery power than when cold. The same thing happens to batteries. Though they often fail outright, often as not they gradually lose power until they don't have enough to crank the starter. An 800 amp new battery may drop to 700, 600, 500, etc. as it ages. No problem until it's output drops below what the starter demands. As already mentioned, the connections and the condition of the cables can also be a factor. Cold cables conduct electricity better than hot ones and a marginal cable or connection might not show up when cold.

I'm currently going through the same thing as you are. Cranks fine cold but hesitates once hot. In my case the starter and cables are fine but the battery is weak and due for replacement. I've just been too lazy to change it :). I keep it in excellent tune so, if needed, it'll always start with just a gentle shove.

 

When you say "run it for a few minutes" does that mean the vehicle is fully warmed up? If that is the case, it could be the starter is suffering from heat soak. Another possibility is that, if the starter is old, it could be that the brushes are wearing out and the added heat is just enough to make a poor contact. Would need a little more info before saying one way or another.

 

Thanks for the help. First off, the battery cables are clean and as stated in my signature....original and in great shape. I guess I will look to the starter first. If its the battery, I'm one of the lucky ones that put a Penny's "lifetime" battery in my Vette back in the '60s. I think I'm on my sixth or seventh replacement battery. Locally, Firestone took over the lifetime contract so every four to six years I get a top of the line Firestone battery for free.


[Modified by Revette, 11:02 PM 5/11/2002]

 

Starter heat soak seems the most likely culprit. An auto electric shop will do a complete rebuild for less than $100 in this neck of the woods.

 

For 25 bucks, Summit has a remote starter solinoid kit with all the components , resolved hot start soak problem on my 1966 big/block.... put the soliniod on the firewall next to the heater box....Worked for me..... :)

 

Thanks for the help. After a starter rebuild and new battery the Vette's startin' like a new car again.
J.C. Penny is startin' to balk at replacing my lifetime battery. The young lady at the service desk says they're buying the contracts for $150. I told her "honey, I've been drivin' this Vette for 34 years and I figure I'll put in at least another 20 years behind the steering wheel of this car. I don't think you'll be buyin' out my contract". I got another battery. :chevy

 

I went through all that last fall ( around here, same as your summers ) and the biggest cause of the problem was the Bendix and brushes in the starter. While I was taking everything apart I found the Bakelite housing of the solenoid to be cracked, which might've played a role too. Went ahead and installed the Summit remote solenoid and wrapped the rebuilt starter with a Thermo-Tec blanket. I really like the remote because of the access it gives you and you also end up with fresh wiring.

BTW, after I'd ordered the remote from Summit I saw the exact same product in a local Starter & Battery shop, under a different name of course.