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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 11:55 PM
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Default Distributor Install

I'll be attemtping to install the TI distributor on my 65 BB this week, would someone mind to give me a quick overview?

Car is at TDC - I know I'll need the rotor to point to # 1 cylinder - is that the one just to the right of center on the cap?


I had installed it approx. 6 months ago but I was way off.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:24 AM
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You're right so far. You may have to turn the oil pump shaft on the pump to line up with the drive gear on the distributor shaft. Use a long screwdriver to turn it. There's a slot in the gear that lines up with the pump shaft. You'll feel the distributor drop down on the shaft when it's lined up properly.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:43 AM
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be sure you are not 180 out. turn the crank a little each way and the intake and exhaust on #6 should "rock" then you know that you are not 180 out and are on #1 or TDC, then simply point the rotor toward #1 spark plug wire. don't worry about the oil pump, bump the motor and it will fall in to place. obviously if you turn the crank a little each way and #1 valves rock you are 180 out, turn the crank one revolution, or simply set the distributor to #6. plain as mud?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Is there a sure fire way to confirm that I am at TDC with the valve covers on?
Hook up compression tester to #1 while I am turning engine by hand?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BrettG
Is there a sure fire way to confirm that I am at TDC with the valve covers on?
Hook up compression tester to #1 while I am turning engine by hand?
A old shade tree way was to put your finger OVER ( not in) the number 1 sparkplug hole while cranking. When you felt pressure or heard it "wosh", it was at, or near, #1. Your tester will do the same. By the way, with the marks aligned on the dampener and cam cover, it has to be on #1 or 180 out. A timming light helps too.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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Lars document attached
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
distinstall.pdf (172.5 KB, 284 views)
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BrettG
Is there a sure fire way to confirm that I am at TDC with the valve covers on?
Hook up compression tester to #1 while I am turning engine by hand?
correct...but use your finger to feel the pressure, then line up the marks on the tab and balancer...good luck....
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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In addition to the above points instead of using TDC on the damper a setting of 8-10 degrees BTC is better. When you have settled the distributor down on the cam gear turn the distributor to the trigger point. On a points trigger is when the points are just opening. Sorry I have never had a TI .
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Lars document attached
Thanks for the link
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Thanks guys, great information as usual and thx. for the link.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Donald #31176
In addition to the above points instead of using TDC on the damper a setting of 8-10 degrees BTC is better. When you have settled the distributor down on the cam gear turn the distributor to the trigger point. On a points trigger is when the points are just opening. Sorry I have never had a TI .
It's the same for TI. They use a mechanical and vacuum advance as well.

Do you know if your balancer mark correct?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Donald #31176
In addition to the above points instead of using TDC on the damper a setting of 8-10 degrees BTC is better. When you have settled the distributor down on the cam gear turn the distributor to the trigger point. On a points trigger is when the points are just opening. Sorry I have never had a TI .
With a TI pickup, the spark occurs when the 8 points on the reluctor wheel align with the 8 points on the stator. (To be technically correct, the ignition triggers when the magnetic flux starts to drop as the points separate.)
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettG
Is there a sure fire way to confirm that I am at TDC with the valve covers on?
Hook up compression tester to #1 while I am turning engine by hand?
An easier way to tell if you're at TDC-firing for cylinder #1 is to check if the #3 intake valve is open (rocker arm pressing valve spring down which can be seen by opening the oil fill cap if it is located driver-side forward). Alternately, if #6 is at TDC-firing, the #2 intake valve will be open as seen under the oil fill cap if it's located on the passenger side.

Conversely, if you peek at one of these two springs and find that it's NOT open, it means that the other cylinder (1 or 6) is at TDC-firing.

Finally, if you don't have the luxury of having a oil fill cap at the front of either valve cover, it's still easier to remove a valve cover than to remove the #1 spark plug and then try to hold your finger over hole while cranking.

And, as Donald mentioned, set it to a few degrees (I like 12-15) before TDC as this is where the spark should occur.

Last edited by larrywalk; Jan 26, 2012 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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Thanks for the lInk Frankie.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BrettG
Is there a sure fire way to confirm that I am at TDC with the valve covers on?
Hook up compression tester to #1 while I am turning engine by hand?
Or you can remove the number one spark plug put your finger over the hole and have someone crank the engine wait until you feel the blow (indicating the compression stroke) at the same time watch timing mark to your left making its way to TDC stopping the cranking at TDC. If you go past then you need to pass TDC once more and repeat above. Then you can position rotor at #1 firing. If oil pump is not aligned, no problem simply crank the engine holding distributor in place, the rotor will turn and the distributor will drop in when oil pump slot is aligned. Set your timing, have a beer!

Oh, and don't forget to put that spark plug back in place........

rustylugnuts

Last edited by rustylugnuts; Jan 24, 2012 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:54 AM
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Even with all the excellent help I was unable to get it running last night, it would sputter a lot but not start.

Will have to reach out to a buddy today to see if he can come by this evening.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Probably best. Watch what your pal does closely (assuming he's good) and you'll see its really not that complicated once you have a 'walk-through' of the procedure...
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BrettG
Even with all the excellent help I was unable to get it running last night, it would sputter a lot but not start.

Will have to reach out to a buddy today to see if he can come by this evening.
Did you do anything to the carburetor? I find that the saying, "ninety percent of your distributor problems can be found in your carburetor" is pretty accurate.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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Carb. was untouched.


Originally Posted by 65silververt
Did you do anything to the carburetor? I find that the saying, "ninety percent of your distributor problems can be found in your carburetor" is pretty accurate.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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I fought timing issues until we deterimined that the fuel was mostly water....LOL
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