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Compression test question

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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GEM '62
I will re-run the leak down and see if I get the same results. This was my procedure, let me know if it's correct.
Started with #1 at TDC by the timing mark and also can see the piston at TDC through the plug hole. The intake manifold is off so I can also see both valves are closed. Set the pressure to the tester to 100# connect to the cylinder and read the pressure that the cylinder holds.
Continue cylinder by cylinder by firing order.
Sounds generally right from memory. Just because you can see the top of the piston doesn't mean you are on the compression stroke. You need to be sure your on the compression stroke and both valves are shut and the rotor is pointing to the cylinder terminal in the distributor cap for firing. But, I'm sure you know that. Are the valve covers off? If so then you can watch the valves.

I haven't used my gage in years. Is this a single or double gage leakdown tester? I've only used a double gage unit. If you have forged pistons and loose clearances you probably won't get great numbers on a cold engine - but they should be a lot better than most of those.

I still doubt you have a significant engine problem worth going inside over.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #22  
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The leak down test should be a good indicator of ring problems if it's conducted properly and the tester is clean and in good working order. It is also possible that debris is restricting the orifice and causing a greater than normal pressure drop and therefore large leakdown readings.

Have you verified that the orifice in the tester is clear?
Is the air to the tester passed through an inline filter?

As far as #7 is concerned, if the piston won't stay at TDC, it never was at TDC.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Just because you can see the top of the piston doesn't mean you are on the compression stroke. You need to be sure your on the compression stroke and both valves are shut and the rotor is pointing to the cylinder terminal in the distributor cap for firing.
Key issue - if both valves for that cylinder aren't closed, you're at TDC, but not on the compression stroke; remove the valve covers so you can verify that both valves are closed for the cylinder you're working on.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Key issue - if both valves for that cylinder aren't closed, you're at TDC, but not on the compression stroke; remove the valve covers so you can verify that both valves are closed for the cylinder you're working on.
An easy way to verify that #1 is at firing and ready for the leak-down test is to verify that the #3 intake valve is open. If it's not, #6 is in the firing position because BOTH #1 and #6 are at TDC simultaneously.

Looking to see if both valves are closed on #1 is difficult because if it's not at firing, it is in overlap and both valves will appear closed but really aren't. Checking the cylinder three positions later in the firing order (18436572) will have the intake valve nearly full open which makes it a lot easier to see!

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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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I going to re-do the leak down but first I'm going to try to get another gauge so all bases are covered. I was quite sure I was at TDC on all cylinders, valve covers and intake is off so it's easy to see when valves are closed but it was late so will check it one more time.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GEM '62
I going to re-do the leak down but first I'm going to try to get another gauge so all bases are covered. I was quite sure I was at TDC on all cylinders, valve covers and intake is off so it's easy to see when valves are closed but it was late so will check it one more time.
since you have the mill out of the car and down to the heads, why not just pull the heads and check for a ridge....even if it passes the leak down test which you seem to be having problems with, a visual for the cylinder walls will tell you the shape of the mill, leak down or not.....jmo.....good luck....
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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A very simple way I used the other day to determine when a cylinder was approaching TDC on the compression cycle was to clean the plug seat and stick a piece of masking tape over the plug hole, sealing it tight. As the piston approaches TDC building compression the tape will let go with a very audible "pop". Hard to get much simpler.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:10 PM
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OK, new day new leak down test. I used a different gauge and triple checked TDC on all cylinders. Finger over the spark plug hole to feel when piston is coming up on compression, check that both valves are closed, look in plug hole to see piston and rock crank and watch to make sure it's TDC.
#1 - 70% leak, all air coming through exhaust.
#2 - 40% leak, all air going into the crank case.
#3 - 45% leak, air going into the crank case and a little through exhaust.
#4 - 30% leak, all air going into the crank case.
#5 - 30% leak, all air going into the crank case.
#6 - 40% leak, all air going into the crank case.
#7 - 40% leak, air going into the crank case and through exhaust.
#8 - 40% leak, all air coming through exhaust.

On the cylinder with leaks through the exhaust, I bumped the exhaust valves a couple of times incase there was a piece of carbon keeping them from seating but there was no difference found.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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pull the heads...
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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If your valves are not sealing you certainly can improve performance by fixing your valve seal and you need to pull the heads as noted.
GM made many double hump heads and some had small valves while others had all the way up to the 2.02 intake size. Find out what you have before deciding what to do next.
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