Where can you buy a new fill plug? I tried to get mine out to change the gear oil and it was stuck like crazy. 3 days of PB blaster and it still would not budge. I finally got it out but needless to sat there is not much left of it. Shemp

 

You can try these guy's they have some used Muncie parts http://rsgear.com/ or any other gear shop

 

it's basically a pipe plug that you should be able to get at a hardware store or Lowes, etc. i recommend an ungalvanized one, and coat the threads with teflon tape or teflon pipe dope or anti-seize or grease. shouldn't have any more problems.
Bill

 

I suppose they are tapered threads? Shemp

 

I have a '66 Muncie and recently got a magnetic plug at NAPA for 5 or 6 bucks.

 

yes
Bill

 

How does that work with an aluminum casing? Shemp

 

I am sure he is trying to catch all the gear parts after he jams it into gear or the needle barring that doesn't like its happy home

 

the plug would have a magnet built into it, just like a magnetic oil pan drain plug. the fact that the case is aluminum is irrelevant..

however, if it is in the fill plug rather than the drain plug (not all muncies have a separate drain plug in addition to a fill plug) then it is higher up in the case and may not catch much.

and really, i don't think you have much to worry about in a manual transmission; if you're getting metal that is attracted to a magnet, then the trans is already on it's way to being toast...
Bill

 

Bill,

The MY6 transmissions in our 2 Corvettes have a large magnet epoxied on the inside bottom of the main case.

For those not familar with this trans, it is a light truck manual 4 speed OD produced by New Process (Chrysler) for GM in the 80's.

Eventually someone tries to get into reverse without being fully stopped, or the clutch is not fully releasing, etc. etc. Small metal pieces from just wear being caught by a magnet is a wise idea.

John (plasticman)

 

You are lucky it came out with case damage.

You could use a brass plug to avoid future seizing.

IHMO magnetic drain plug is overkill.

Why catch shavings from a destructing tranny?

 

Brass has a dissimilar metals issue with aluminum (corrosion). Granted there are lots of examples where it works fine (A/C heat exchangers are a great example). I'd go with stainless steel if you can find it. Anti-sieze is a must..

Harry

 

All Muncies (EXCEPT M22) up through 1969 DID NOT have a drain plug, so they had a magnetic donut glued in the bottom of the case (this is a potential disaster waiting to happen!!!). Then in 70, all Muncies got a magnetic drain plug.
Whenever I rebuild a Muncie for a customer, the magnetic donut is removed and a magnetic drain plug is installed (I always ask the customer FIRST).
ALL Muncies, over a period of years, will have minute metal particals accumulate into the oil and the magnet draws them to the bottom of the case. This is good! BUUUUUUUUUUUT, on 63-69 Muncies there is NO WAY to remove the metal from the magnet--------------and NO WAY to drain/change the oil without removing the tranny. This is bad.
And below is the result of a magnetic donut coming loose from the bottom of the case. TRUE, this does not happen frequently, but when it does, the Muncie may require all new guts.

This is the magnetic donut that's glued in the case, along with what used to be a donut------------before it came loose and spread hate and discontent inside a perfectly good Muncie. Also shown is the magnetic drain plug I install.


And here is the destroyed guts of that Muncie, caused by the loose magnetic donut.


A magnetic drain plug is the only way to go when your Muncie gets rebuilt.

Tom Parsons

 

Ya, correct on all counts.On the brass aluminum thing. I knew better.

I don't grind my gears too often. But I do have a mag plug for my oil pan. No reason a tranny shouldn't have one too. No shavings is a good thing.

I have had my head up my *** today.

 

I just remembered a box of old nuts and bolts that came w/ the car when I puchased it, so I thought I would take a look and there were 2 plugs unmolested. One was the correct 9/16 plug but the other was an inverted type for an square allen wrench. I went with the 9/16 added a little anti sieze and I'm good to go. Oh and by the way I was a pint low
on oil. I hope it didn't do too much damage. If it needs to be rebuilt I amm going to a new Kiesler 5 speed. We will see. Shemp

 

Mine is brass and working fine for decades

 

Brass plugs are OK only if you are the only one who ever touches it .
If it gets overtightened it will shred when you try to remove it. A cast plug from ace hardware works best less than $1
Mark