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I've had a fit with the green **** switches and corrosion - switched to the blade type and other than having to 'Lok-Tit' the assembly screws from coming loose that has been bullet proof. Personally, when I turn the key and get that sickening 'no crank' condition I don't want an extra piece of after-market electronics to worry about...others might....PURELY my own personal preference.
Those are nice but they sure are pricey. I'll stick with the old green **** switches. I've been using them on all my cars for probably 30 years and never had a single problem with any of them.
I have the green **** which is great for shutting off the electrical power when the car in not in use. What happens if you are driving and have an electrical short, you have to stop, get out and open the hood and turn off the green ****, by the time you do all that your car is toast.
I have the green **** which is great for shutting off the electrical power when the car in not in use. What happens if you are driving and have an electrical short, you have to stop, get out and open the hood and turn off the green ****, by the time you do all that your car is toast.
That was also my thought. Ended up using a rotary switch and manual choke cable to activate the switch from inside the cabin. Battery power can be cut off immediately, if needed. Otherwise, the battery stays disconnected when the car is not is use.
Wow -- and I thought I was paranoid about electrical problems. However, I'll stick with my knife blade battery cutoff and the additional fusing I've added to the '61...
Most look like modified Cole-Herse switches. The Cole-Herse switches have been around for years - way before the green **** ones became popular. Install a C-H switch (look for this style in summit or jegs) and you will never need another, nor will it crap out like the green **** ones,
I've got a "Battery Brain" switch on mine that connects and disconnects with a keyfob remote control. I've had it several years now and have had no problems with it at all. I can go to a restaurant, leave the car with a disconnected battery, and return knowing it would be difficult to start even with someone trying. And, should there ever be a malfunction, the switch has a **** on it to turn manually to reconnect the power.
Another neat feature of the switch is that it will automatically disconnect if the battery voltage drops to eleven and some-odd volts (I've forgotten exactly where) allowing you sufficient battery to re-start the car once the switch is reconnected. I've inadvertently tested this feature more than once when I've driven in my garage and failed to turn off the parking lights. I'm always a little surprised the next morning when everything is as dead as a hammer, until I realize that the battery is disconnected.
But, a click on the key fob and I'm on my way again. It's really a pretty nice and handy piece of equipment, IMO. You can find it pretty readily with a Google search.