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Battery kill switch

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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Default Battery kill switch

I saw this on My Classic Car today. Instead of the blade and green **** switches this may appeal to some.
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...FSkQNAod-FQT3w

Dennis
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Beck
I saw this on My Classic Car today. Instead of the blade and green **** switches this may appeal to some.
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...FSkQNAod-FQT3w

Dennis
I've had a fit with the green **** switches and corrosion - switched to the blade type and other than having to 'Lok-Tit' the assembly screws from coming loose that has been bullet proof. Personally, when I turn the key and get that sickening 'no crank' condition I don't want an extra piece of after-market electronics to worry about...others might....PURELY my own personal preference.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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Those are nice but they sure are pricey. I'll stick with the old green **** switches. I've been using them on all my cars for probably 30 years and never had a single problem with any of them.

Jim
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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I have the green **** which is great for shutting off the electrical power when the car in not in use. What happens if you are driving and have an electrical short, you have to stop, get out and open the hood and turn off the green ****, by the time you do all that your car is toast.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
Those are nice ..... I'll stick with the old green **** switches.

Jim
I like those ***** switches two.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GEM '62
I have the green **** which is great for shutting off the electrical power when the car in not in use. What happens if you are driving and have an electrical short, you have to stop, get out and open the hood and turn off the green ****, by the time you do all that your car is toast.
That was also my thought. Ended up using a rotary switch and manual choke cable to activate the switch from inside the cabin. Battery power can be cut off immediately, if needed. Otherwise, the battery stays disconnected when the car is not is use.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1270243076

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1270243030
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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Wow -- and I thought I was paranoid about electrical problems. However, I'll stick with my knife blade battery cutoff and the additional fusing I've added to the '61...
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Most look like modified Cole-Herse switches. The Cole-Herse switches have been around for years - way before the green **** ones became popular. Install a C-H switch (look for this style in summit or jegs) and you will never need another, nor will it crap out like the green **** ones,
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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I've got a "Battery Brain" switch on mine that connects and disconnects with a keyfob remote control. I've had it several years now and have had no problems with it at all. I can go to a restaurant, leave the car with a disconnected battery, and return knowing it would be difficult to start even with someone trying. And, should there ever be a malfunction, the switch has a **** on it to turn manually to reconnect the power.

Another neat feature of the switch is that it will automatically disconnect if the battery voltage drops to eleven and some-odd volts (I've forgotten exactly where) allowing you sufficient battery to re-start the car once the switch is reconnected. I've inadvertently tested this feature more than once when I've driven in my garage and failed to turn off the parking lights. I'm always a little surprised the next morning when everything is as dead as a hammer, until I realize that the battery is disconnected.

But, a click on the key fob and I'm on my way again. It's really a pretty nice and handy piece of equipment, IMO. You can find it pretty readily with a Google search.



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