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I have a stock 327 in a 62 with correct intake manifold. The problem is the vacuum advance canister hits the manifold and can not correctly time the engine. Yes, it runs but I have way too much advance, like way past the marks.
Hopfully here is a picture. Are the different shape advances?
Are you disconnecting the vacuum advance when checking the timing? Your pic. shows that the interference is preventing you from advancing the timing further. If you still have a problem, just move all your plug wires 1 position counter clockwise. The #1 plug wire should be directly above the point adjustment window. Yours is not.
That distributor is sitting lower and closer to the manifold than any I have owned. I haven't had a 62 so, I defer to those who have, but it looks awfully low to me.
That distributor is sitting lower and closer to the manifold than any I have owned. I haven't had a 62 so, I defer to those who have, but it looks awfully low to me.
That's just the angle of the photo. Looks just like every small block I've ever seen.
Here's a picture of a 62 to show you what I mean by yours looks low. If it's a matter of rotation only, you can do as stated and move the wires a space each to change the rotation set point
I have a stock 327 in a 62 with correct intake manifold. The problem is the vacuum advance canister hits the manifold and can not correctly time the engine. Yes, it runs but I have way too much advance, like way past the marks.
Hopfully here is a picture. Are the different shape advances?
Thanks,
Bob
Looks to me like your cap is wired wrong, one terminal out in thecounterclockwise direction. Follow John's picture.
If you re-index the wires to correct, your timing will further advance so you need to reset the gear mesh on the camshaft.
By that,do you mean turn the distributor gear 180 degrees by pulling the pin and rotating the gear on the distributor shaft?
No. Just lift the dist. up enough to disengage it from the cam gear and turn the rotor 1 or 2 teeth the direction you want. The dist. won't drop all the way back down (not engage with the oil pump drive) but when you turn the motor over a little, it will.
Start from scratch,pull dist stuff number1 hole with tissue bump it over until the tissue flys out,check you timing mark on balancer and turn it with a ratchet
Until timing mark is at 0. Redrop dist,bump it over a few times and
It will drop into oil pump shaft. Make sure rotor is at about 6:30 when you drop it,plug vacuum hose when you disconnect from advance and retime
By that,do you mean turn the distributor gear 180 degrees by pulling the pin and rotating the gear on the distributor shaft?
It's hard for me to tell if the cap is wired wrong but it looks like it. If it is wired wrong according to John's picture, I'd wire the cap correctly and then reset the distributor to the cam.
It may still not be possible to set the timing and in that case, the OP will have to turn the gear a half turn on the distributor shaft and reseat the distributor. This might explain why the cap is wired wrong, if it really is.
OK guys, let me try to sum up everyone's input and what I need to do or have done:
1. Plug wires need to be repositioned 1 hole clockwise.
2. Distributor needs to be re-indexed with cam and oil pump
3. Engine needs to be retimed.
Someone asked what my degrees of advance. I do not know but the mark on the dampener is well beyond the farthest mark on the indicator, at least twice the distance between the 0 and the most advance mark.
So what affect(s) does being this far out of time have on the engine? Once everything is to spec, will this have any affect on either performance and/or fuel mileage? The engine is a stock 327/300HP with powerglide. I usually only put enough gas in for the day's drive but estimate I get 10/12 MPG.
I am not sure I am up to making the adjustments of the distributor to cam and oil pump. Is this part something that is basic or more advanced? I have never needed an engine mechanic so I do not know what questions to ask to judge their knowledge and skills.
Update: I checked the plug wire placement and they appear to be as adivised previously in this posting. Looking down at the point adjustment window, no. 1 wire is just to the left side of the window. No. 2 is above the window and to the right side.
Now that you have the cap wired correctly, take cap off of dist. Undo dist lock down bolt, lift dist and rotate rotor clock wise one tooth, reinstall dist (make sure oil pump rod is properly located), retime.
Also, take a look a John Z's pic in post number 6 and your pic. Notice how your pic shows the number one cap post pointing slightly to the front while in John's pic it's more toward the passenger side fender. Looks like you are off by one tooth. And believe me, there's only ONE way that the distributor will fit in that area. Everything MUST be set correctly for it to work.
B. Turning the dist. CW (away from the intake manifold runner that it is contacting) will lessen the advance.
C. Disconnect and block the vacumm line going to the vac. advance canister before adjusting the ignition timing (you may need to open the throttle a tad to keep the enging running - use a thin piece of cardboard at the throttle stop screw).
D. Note the current ignition timing (as ref.). Then reset the ignition timing per spec., and relock down the dist., and test drive.
If your timing still cannot be set correctly, then we can talk about resetting the distributor, or changing the gear position.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; Apr 6, 2012 at 08:50 AM.
Steve69: You and others have mentioned making sure the 'oil pump pump rod is properly located' How do I know if it is properly located? I understand how the distributor gear needs to mesh with the cam gear, but I do not understand the issue with the oil pump. Do you or someone have a picture or tell me where I can see one to better idea of what I am doing?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Just drop me an e-mail request for my "how to install your distributor" tech paper: JohnZ's photo is from that paper. Your distributor is installed one tooth off, and that's affecting your clocking and ability to get it timed without hitting the manifold runner - common problem. The paper will guide you through the process.