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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with these rotating type engine stands?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Never have tried one but they sure do look neat..
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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I've had no problems with the Harbor Freight version. It's held a longblock in place for over a year.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:37 PM
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I've used the harbour freight version and one from Costco.
They all work fine. Don't spend a lot of $.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TxPres
I've used the harbour freight version and one from Costco.
They all work fine. Don't spend a lot of $.
How much from HF and Costco?

Thanks
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:14 AM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=engine+stand

I've got the 1000 lb model. Make sure you grab their flyer, there's always like a 20% off coupon.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 05:44 AM
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Well I have a few different types of brands. The recent one is a chinese model and I had a 454 on it for months. It is slightly bent at the rotation section but does the trick. Just make sure the bolts are all tight. Stewy
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr L-88
How much from HF and Costco?

Thanks
Less than $75 from HF. It has been a while since I bought from Costco, but I think it was about $125.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Here is a test Hotrod ran a few months back.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...engine_stands/
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr L-88
Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with these rotating type engine stands?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/
I have one, a SUNEX 8300. Very heavy-duty. The gear drive works great. Makes it so easy to clock the motor at just the position you need, with almost zero effort.

Overpriced? Definitely! But if you use it frequently -- it's probably worth it.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 10:40 AM
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Have been using mine for years with no problem, held my 454 and a couple of 327's as well. No need to spend the big bucks, shop around or watch for sales, I think I paid about $75 a few years back. There are alot of them out there and they all work fine. Just make sure you get one with the wider stance at the front.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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I've had my original 327 from my '63 sitting on one for over 10 years. No problems to report.

- Pat
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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I have one of those 1000 lb. HF models with the single forward leg. The thing is too low to the ground for me. Otherwise, I guess it's okay for a universal fit model.

I also have a homemade one. It doesn't have any adjustable arms on it. Just a flat plate that is drilled for Chevy sb/bb and Ford 302 bellhousing pattern. Spacers hold it away from the plate to allow flywheel clearance. This kind is much easier to load than the kind with the adjustable arms flopping around and the center of gravity is established for easy rollover of the engine during assembly. It is also a better working height than the HF and similar models.

If you want to save a buck or two, try Craigs List. That's where I got the HF model. It was brand new. Never used. I think I gave $35-$40 for it.

Small caster wheels are a distinct disadvantge if you don't have a smooth floor to roll on. Bigger wheels are better. The type with a single forward facing leg will allow you close up work without tripping. The two legged models get in the way of your feet. If you get one with the single leg, it's best to pull the engine/stand rearward instead of forward to maintain stability.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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The type with a single forward facing leg will allow you close up work without tripping. The two legged models get in the way of your feet. If you get one with the single leg, it's best to pull the engine/stand rearward instead of forward to maintain stability.
Even though the single leg might give you more room for your feet, they are unstable compared to the type with 4 wheels. I also agree that if you don't plan on using it often, the $50-$75 range will work just fine.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr L-88
Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with these rotating type engine stands?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/
If you plan on doing more than one motor, or plan on building a motor, not just assembling parts once, I would upgrade to one of these vs the HF type. If you have welding skills, you can upgrade a HF model two two front casters and make it much more stable.

Once you have heads on a motor, and want to start rotating it, the single front caste and lack of gear drive often means two people are required to get the heavy side of the motor up, and not tip the engine stand over.
That is what i mean about building vs simply assembling, building a motor often means several rotations of the motor to do this and that to it. For example, put clay on pistons,assemble heads to motor, turn crank, remove heads, check piston clearance, remove rods and pistons and mill a bit, repeat.

You see what i mean vs simply assembling parts onto the motor once, or simply using as storage device.

For motor storage, i like those little short four caster carts that bolt to the rear of the block.


Doug
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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I have one as posted from Summit. I bought it used from a local guy and though it had been well used, it functions perfectly. I would buy another one.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Here's a nice geared one, but they wouldn't let me take it home when I retired.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug

Once you have heads on a motor, and want to start rotating it, the single front caste and lack of gear drive often means two people are required to get the heavy side of the motor up, and not tip the engine stand over.
Doug
This is why it is important to have your center of gravity correct in relation to the rotation point. You shouldn't have a "heavy side".

Also, I use a four inch bolt screwed into the engine mount boss on each side. Makes nice handles to turn the engine. One hand up, one hand down and that way you don't upset the balance of the stand, even one with three casters.

Good idea to grease the rotation point too before you hang the block on the stand. That let's it rotate much easier.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
This is why it is important to have your center of gravity correct in relation to the rotation point. You shouldn't have a "heavy side".
Kind of hard to do when you start with a bare block,and keep adding stuff like heads.

You know as well as I do that there is no adjustment of Gc once the block is bolted up to the rotator plate.

Doug
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Kind of hard to do when you start with a bare block,and keep adding stuff like heads.

You know as well as I do that there is no adjustment of Gc once the block is bolted up to the rotator plate.

Doug
You set it up to balance with the heads on it! The short block is nothing to twirl even if it is off a little. As I mentioned previously, this is one of the shortcomings of the "universal or adjustable" engine stand. No you can't get it perfect but you can get it close. My engine stand turns a SB or a BB will equal balance effort. Just dealing with more weight, more friction at the rotation point.

I'm almost 70 years old and I don't need any help turning one of my engines which is on the stand now and I don't use a helper or a crank!
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