Engine stands





http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/





I've got the 1000 lb model. Make sure you grab their flyer, there's always like a 20% off coupon.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/
Overpriced? Definitely! But if you use it frequently -- it's probably worth it.
I also have a homemade one. It doesn't have any adjustable arms on it. Just a flat plate that is drilled for Chevy sb/bb and Ford 302 bellhousing pattern. Spacers hold it away from the plate to allow flywheel clearance. This kind is much easier to load than the kind with the adjustable arms flopping around and the center of gravity is established for easy rollover of the engine during assembly. It is also a better working height than the HF and similar models.
If you want to save a buck or two, try Craigs List. That's where I got the HF model. It was brand new. Never used. I think I gave $35-$40 for it.
Small caster wheels are a distinct disadvantge if you don't have a smooth floor to roll on. Bigger wheels are better. The type with a single forward facing leg will allow you close up work without tripping. The two legged models get in the way of your feet. If you get one with the single leg, it's best to pull the engine/stand rearward instead of forward to maintain stability.










http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80059/10002/-1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-908300GA/
Once you have heads on a motor, and want to start rotating it, the single front caste and lack of gear drive often means two people are required to get the heavy side of the motor up, and not tip the engine stand over.
That is what i mean about building vs simply assembling, building a motor often means several rotations of the motor to do this and that to it. For example, put clay on pistons,assemble heads to motor, turn crank, remove heads, check piston clearance, remove rods and pistons and mill a bit, repeat.
You see what i mean vs simply assembling parts onto the motor once, or simply using as storage device.
For motor storage, i like those little short four caster carts that bolt to the rear of the block.
Doug
Also, I use a four inch bolt screwed into the engine mount boss on each side. Makes nice handles to turn the engine. One hand up, one hand down and that way you don't upset the balance of the stand, even one with three casters.
Good idea to grease the rotation point too before you hang the block on the stand. That let's it rotate much easier.





You know as well as I do that there is no adjustment of Gc once the block is bolted up to the rotator plate.
Doug
I'm almost 70 years old and I don't need any help turning one of my engines which is on the stand now and I don't use a helper or a crank!











