If my car was original I probably would resist converting things, but since its been bastardized since the 60's I Just make it good and reliable.

You should also be able to pull the gen and VR and take it to your local auto supply for a bench test.

It may be a little challenging as they will try and look up how to hook it up in their "books", they will not find it and will look at you kind of dumb.

You will need to find the the guy there without acne with some gray in his hair, he will be able to help you.

Was it rebuilt locally?, you may want to take both pieces to them for testing.

 

I would take the gen and reg back to the rebuilder to have them tested together. If the gen brushes were not seated with a seating stone the gen may work when full fielded, but not work thru the reg.

 

21 replies and no one has given clear instructions for doing any on-car testing.

Larry, do this using a Volt meter:

1. Connect the meter (+) lead to the generator "A" terminal (large wire)

2. Connect the meter (-) lead to the generator case.

3. Note the meter reading. It should be zero (0) Volts

4. Start the engine and bring RPM up to 1500 - 2000

5. Note the Volt meter reading. It should be around 14 Volts (but probably won't be since you are having charging issues).

If the Voltage is around 14 Volts, your generator is good and your Voltage regulator probably is also. If you do not see a reading of around 14 Volts, perform steps 6 and 7

6. With the engine still running at 1500 - 2000 RPM ground the generator "F" terminal and note the Volt meter. It should be indicating more than 14 Volts (the actual amount doesn't matter).

7. Let the engine idle and disconnect the ground at the "F" terminal.

If the generator Voltage, with the "F" terminal grounded, was exceeding 14 Volts or so, the generator is good and the Voltage regulator is probably bad. If the generator Voltage never reached 14 Volts, the generator is bad but the condition of the Voltage regulator is unknown.

If the generator is good, further testing will be needed to conclusively prove the regulator is good/bad. One step at a time, though.....

Jim

 

To be fair we provided similar instructions in his first thread when he wanted to learn if his generator or VR was bad.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...generator.html

 

I provided a schematic and referred him to the Passenger Car Service Manual for check out procedures. IMO if you don't have that and the ST-12 and an AIM you shouldn't be wrenching on these cars.

 

Jeff, you are right.

Larry, you really, really need to perform the procedure indicated by Jeff in posting #9 in the other thread or the procedure I described above in posting #23 in this thread.

Report your results, whichever procedure you follow.

Jim

 

A few years ago my 62 stopped charging, after checking the charging system we found out the VR was defective, I went to the local parts store and picked one up but the problem remained.
After talking to a friend of mine who is really up on these old Chevy's told me to replace the defective regulator with a Delco.
I took his advice problem solved.

 

Latest turn of events:

Took the newly rebuilt generator to a second rebuilder and he took it apart. It tested ok on his machine. He noticed that the top, bottom and center sections of the case were heavily covered with paint from the previous rebuilder (looked like rustoleum!). He scraped the paint off and cleaned up the inside a bit and did not find any other issues. Nice fellow..didn't even charge me!

After putting it back on, it now charges but shows 12.5 to 13 V at idle and and kicks up to 14V at 1200 RPM and over. The dash gauge now goes from discharge at idle and swing rapidly to positive when you rev 1000 to 1200 RPM +. It used to be quit steady before at "O" in the middle of the gauge. Same result with new and old VR. I have not taken the car on a long test drive but I do not know if a long drive with cure the issue.

Obviously this is better than before but the discharge at idle and the fluctuating gauge concern me. Will a solid state regulator conversion solve the problem?

 

The battery is probably undercharged due to the testing of the generator & VR. A slow charge of the battery overnight should do the trick. When the battery is fully charged after starting the engine the amp gauge will swing to the positive and slowly ease back towards a plus side of zero. Generators need about 1400 RPM to charge the battery so what youre experiencing is normal.

 

Sounds like things are working properly, Larry.

Jim

 

Thanks Gents! Good to hear from you Jim!