jtranger

I had the generator rebuilt and put two voltage regulators in and the car is still not charging. Wiring at regulator and generator are good. Battery is about a year old and I polarized the generator. Any other obvious areas to look? Could a blown fuse in the fuse box cause the discharge?

Frankie the Fink

How are you determining that there is no output ?? Ammeter ??
Perhaps measure across the battery terminals with the engine running about 2,000 RPM and you should get between 13.8V-14.2V.

There is nothing fused in the stock charging/ammeter circuit (unfortunately!)...which is dangerous and many owners add a 30 amp fuse in this circuit for that reason...

However, if somebody DID add that fuse and it IS bad...all power (lights, radio, etc.) would be out...

Redbird

Polarize the VR? Amp gauge hooked up correctly?

jtranger

I am running off the battery at 12.5 volts and the ammeter is negative to confirm the discharge. There is not an upgraded fuse system. That will be a project when the dash comes out!

jtranger

Yes, Polarized and never touched the amp gauge. The car suddenly started to discharge after a drive. Replaced the generator and voltage reg and still the same discharge.

Frankie the Fink

Are you using the old style armature & points V/R or a solid-state conversion ??

Also you DO know that the old C1 wiring diagrams had the ammeter connections backwards.

Have you changed the ammeter wiring since it was once working properly ?

How did you polarize the generator (there are two methods depending on the 'type' of generator)?

jtranger

Frank, I put a new regulator from the local FLAPS and was going to send the original out later for solid state conversion. After it still would not charge, I put the old reg in and the same result. Polarized by touching the batt term on the VR to the Arm on the VR briefly

I have not touched the amp gauge or anything else.

1955 copper

Are you sure the Gen. and VR are both grounded to each other

jtranger

Yes, Braided ground wire goes from the top of the VR to the top of the generator.

Pilot Dan

You need to hook up a volt meter to find out where your trouble REALLY is. You can quickly rule out the Generator that way. IMO the replacement current FLAPS regulators are junk. They have no adjustment and are mass made to fit many cars. Solid State VR conversion has worked well for over a year now. Make sure that is your problem first and not revesed wires on the guage. Is your battery actually run down or are you just reading a discharge?? Pilot Dan

jtranger

I never touched the gauge so wires are fine. The battery is fresh charged and when running it is at 12.5 V instead of 13.5 -14 V. Gauge is also negative and does not move with increased RPMS. I replaced the VR and gen after it started discharging after a recent drive. No other changes.

wmf62

time for an alternator...
Bill

Frankie the Fink

Previous poster is right about the FLAPS V/Rs...many are crap. I'd reconfirm the wiring per the following diagram and then try one more regulator if it were me. (Ignore the reversed ammeter wires of course!)

And just for grins sit in the car with the engine running and pull out the headlight **** with the lights on high beam and see which way the ammeter moves

wmf62

i'm guessing you're wanting to see if the gauge is wired backwards. if so, i don't think he even needs the engine running to see which way the needle moves.
Bill

Frankie the Fink

I think its back to the Passenger Car Manual check out procedures for JT and I'm betting on a bad replacement regulator...although I have seen a cracked brush on a freshly rebuilt generator cause a no-charge condition.

jtranger

I am going to try one more regulator from Napa this time. Is there a separate polarization for the regulator? The rebuilder said he tested the generator after the rebuild. Would a cracked brush show up on his test?

John S 1961

You havent tried the float test yet I see,

Take your generator to the nearest large body of water and toss in, if it floats then its a good generator.

If not, the replace with an alternator, this gives you a big jump up to 1963 technology. I love anacronistic technology, In a museum. But if you really want to drive and enjoy your car carfree then at least consider an alternator, electronic ignition and disc brakes.

But you really need to know the voltage in your system at various points before you mess with anything else. JMHO

jtranger

I have had this voltage regulator and generator on the car for twenty years with no issues. I like the original look and do not want to lose that.

Frankie the Fink

Likewise...a generator is a perfectly fine piece of electrical equipment...

Alternators main advantage is that they are cheaper to build...and charge fully at lower RPM. I don't spend much time at low RPMs...

Frankie the Fink

If the rebuilder checked the generator it should be good....no separate polarization technique for the V/R ... try the new V/R and see if that works...