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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Hello - I am a new enthusiast and am in the market for a 66 or 67 driver, not a show or garage queen. I have been told the 327 drives better than the big block. This has been probably discussed to death and if so I apologize but couldn't find much using the search function. I know its all a matter of opinion but would like to hear from people with more experience than me. Thanks.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Here's my .02 cents.

I love BBs! In Chevelles, Camaros,trucks. Just not the Vette. Yes I drool over a Tri-power 427 just like the rest of us.

But as a daily or even part time driver, I will always choose the SB for the Vette.

The small block C2 is a beautifully balanced, pleasant driver. It's light,handles and it revs to the moon etc..

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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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I am new, and on the hunt myself.

For me though, its more of a matter of cost... Realistically, a mid year convertible... but even the base model 67s seem more pricey.

If you got the cash, get what you want and avoid any regrets for not getting that 396 or 427...

If you are trying to get the most for the minimum, the 327 is where its going to be at.

Good luck with your search!
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MiguelsC2

Yes I drool over a Tri-power 427 just like the rest of us.

You won't catch me drooling on myself over wanting a BB!

Lot's of problems associated with midyear BB's. One of them is money but it won't be mine!

The SB is the way to go. Especially a SHP SB.

'67 isn't the way to go either. More money than the other midyears for what??????????????????

Unless you're into judging, don't pay a dime extra for somebody advertising "matching numbers", "original drivetrain" or other phrases that indicate you are buying a virgin automobile. The blunt truth is, probably 85-90% of the midyears out there are NOT original when it comes to retaining there original drivetrain.

Little known secret is, they will run just as well with an engine block out of a Chris Craft boat or an industrial application as they will with the bona fide original block.

Last edited by MikeM; Jun 6, 2012 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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Thanks Mike... that helps!

Especially since I don't want to be judged... i just wanna drive!
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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yeah - I am thinking of getting a semi- project car and doing the mods myself: update the engine with eletronic ignition, etc, modern a/c, side pipes if they didn't come with it. A modern 327 could easily get 400 hp or more normally aspirated.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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the BB in my Chevelle is fun period. the 327/300 and the 327/350 in my dads 67 is enjoyable to drive. I never drove a BB corvette yet.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Revfan

Especially since I don't want to be judged... i just wanna drive!
Then be careful about pics you post here on the Forum. Lot's of self appointed judges here.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:51 PM
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In my opinion the carburated, solid lifter L76 (340 or 365) is my engine of choice.
Runs great, never overheats and none of the temperamental nature of the fuel injection
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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I believe the best all around Chevrolet engine is the 327/350hp. They are smooth, lots of low end, rev nicely and are not the least bit tempermental.

I own a '65 BB and while it's probably the most powerful car I've owned, it's not the best combination I've ever driven.

Many will tell you there is nothing like cubic inches for overall driving enjoyment but you won't hear that from me. Don't get me wrong I like 450hp with 400 ft lbs of torque at 2500 RPM, but the car just isn't as nimble as others I driven.

I agree with MikeM regarding original drive trains, in these cars especially. They are only worth the premium $$ for a select few. I also agree with him regarding the 67 model year, all C2's have essentially the same engine, transmission, rearend, chassis and body with the exception of disc brakes they are the same car. I also believe that drum brakes are fine for normal street driving so unless you intend to race discs are just a nice option.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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Mark,

There are THREE 'PPP's to have a great Corvette.

Power
Patina
Provenance

Power: these cars all weigh about 3100# so if they a running decent they are fun. If you want to have more power there are so many easy combinations of heads, carbs, cams, etc. for small money you can have what you want. Or, just lie about...called bench racing

Patina: if someone rags you about paint or interior tell them you want to preserve the patina. My favorite response is 'if you bought a piece of Louis XIV furniture you would do not dip it and strip it'

Provenance: If you car does not have a good history...make up one ! Just drop the words ' Duntov, test track, prototype, one of only 8 made' in the conversation with mumbling and a low whispering voice. if you are good, they will buy you a beer just to sit in it.

have fun, that is why you have a Corvette.

Corvettes are like women they are all good, some just better than others.

Joe
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 10:15 PM
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it's the body & frame that counts everything else can be fixed, which engine? I vote for the small block, a 327 built to 350 hp specs or stroked to 383

Last edited by vt65; Jun 6, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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Since you want a good driver, you have many more options than a person wanting an original. Buy a project car and put the engine you want and the transmission you like in the car. My original combo cruised at 3000rpm at 70 mph. Not very good for mpg.

The car needs a 5 or 6 speed. The car needs an aluminum radiator with electric fans. For most, the car needs a good after market AC system. Build it the way you like and it is a lot of fun. You can now have the cubic inches of the old big blocks in a small block package. Modern big blocks start at 502 cubic inches with many above 600. If you want a completely modern car you can go with an LS motor. There are lots of options and good luck with your endeavor!
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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I have a 66 big block and a 71 small block . I drive both of them quite often. I like them both.
Just buy the best body and frame you can get with the money you have to spend . The drive train is the small potatoes when it comes to $$ spent .
If you are new to this buy yourself a good driver quality car and have fun.
Get someone who knows how to check the frame , birdcage and body before you pull the trigger on any C-2 or C-3 .

Bill
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 07:34 AM
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My 2 favorites are:

1. 427/390 big block. It's a civil big block that makes plenty of low end torque and you only have one carb to fiddle with.

2. 327/350 small block. Nice high revving small block. Very satisfying torque curve.

You can't go wrong with either of these
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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I have a 67 427/400 hp and a 65 327/300 hp. I love them both, but they are very different. The 427/400 is a great driveable big block with the eye candy of three carbs and side pipes. For car shows and short drives it is great. The 327/300 is a delight to drive anywhere anytime. The car is a coupe with under-car exhaust, F41 suspension, and power steering. I never get tired of driving it. Just my opinion, but you really need to consider how far and how long you think that you will drive the car on a typical day. Do you want straight-line performance or good cornering etc.

Doc
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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[QUOTE

The blunt truth is, probably 85-90% of the midyears out there are NOT original when it comes to retaining there original drivetrain.

You are so right about 85% to 90% of the Mid-years are fakes being pawned off as originals.

Why pay more for a BB fake that will not handle or drive as well as a SB? I guarantee you that most of the people on this board who think they have a real BB have a fake. Look at the thousands of engine blocks and other original drive train parts listed for sale in magazines like Hemmings and others. They say there blocks have all the broach marks too! LOL. I think anyone who buys and pays big money for a BB they they think is real is a fool, unless they buy it from the original buyer with a signed and notarized affadavit that the drive train is original. Buy the more fun and better handling SB and stay away from the BB.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by VettesRfun2
I think anyone who buys and pays big money for a BB they they think is real is a fool
Pretty BOLD statement, don't you think????
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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If you're looking for a fun driver, my vote would go to the 390 hp 427. I owned one once at the same time as my 427/435. Around town, it was probably as quick and much easier to drive. Besides the power to blow most cars into the weeds (given the same gearing and tires), there is a certain cachet to having the "427" on the hood.

Cornering was never a problem with the BB on the highway (yeah, I know the small block may corner better in a gymkhana, but the OP is talking a driver).

PS is a good idea with any engine (can be added if the one you buy doesn't have it.

Of course, it will cost a little more to buy a BB, but the smiles it will bring you will be priceless.

And don't worry about "matching" #'s if you're going to drive it.


Finally, at the risk of POing a lot of people on this forum, if you want a Vette to drive around in, take a look at some C5's. They are very affordable, draw lots of attention driving around, are quicker and lot's more comfortable than any midyear. The AC even works well!!

Last edited by 427435; Jun 7, 2012 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM

'67 isn't the way to go either. More money than the other midyears for what??????????????????

Unless you're into judging, don't pay a dime extra for somebody advertising "matching numbers", "original drivetrain" or other phrases that indicate you are buying a virgin automobile. The blunt truth is, probably 85-90% of the midyears out there are NOT original when it comes to retaining there original drivetrain.
I had no idea my original drivetrain '67 vert was sooo rare. And its a big block delete car, without a big block hood.

I guess now it should be worth 10 or 20 times more money.
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