bent frame
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Des Moines IOWA
bent frame
I did a test run on body fitment with my 10 inch wide wheels and it was close on one side and the othere side could not even come close. One camber rod is adjusted out a and the other is inn. I couldnt adjust toe in on one side. I talked to a corvette dude and I am pretty sure my frame is bent. It never ends. I will try to post pics when I get them. Oh and anyone worried about body shiming the body for door gaps, dont worry. If you have any muscles it is the easiest thing ever. Toe in sucks
Race Director
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From: Central Arkansas
Cobra guys know all about asymetrical bodys where one side doesn't match the other side at all. After 40 years Corvette bodies aren't much better - after all they are just a bunch of pieces glued together. I'm not sure they were too symetrical when new. But, could be a tweaked frame too.
A ten inch wheel under a mid-year is quite a feat. Do you have stock fenders on it?
A ten inch wheel under a mid-year is quite a feat. Do you have stock fenders on it?
Last edited by DansYellow66; Jun 10, 2012 at 07:07 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
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From: DFW
How far off is it? 3/8" (1/2" even) is not unusual for a never-been-hit body and frame.
Harry
I agre with Dan, too. 10" wheels are virtually impossible on a stock body.
Harry
I agre with Dan, too. 10" wheels are virtually impossible on a stock body.
Last edited by 66since71; Jun 10, 2012 at 07:30 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Des Moines IOWA
My trailing arms are brand new vette parts and brakes offset trailing arms. The wheels are 5.25 backspace and one fits perfect with about a .25 inch of room between tire and frame. This side adjusts fine and I am able to add and remove shims and get it to change toe. The other side is toed out and hiting the frame no matter what I do. I also had to adjust one camber rod completely out while the other is all the way in. When i measure the trailing to the pumpkin the side that doesnt adjust is .75 closer. The composite leaf is sitting inside the wheel too and not on the other side. The 10 inch wheels almost fit under the factory qaurters but I might get the widened qaurters to be safe. If so close I cant decide and with the alignment issue it make it hard to tell. Overall I am pretty happy with the look of the wheels on the car. Thought they where going to look to big ,but I think once the front end is lowered down and the bumpers and sidepipes on it should look good. 8.5 wide wheels fit the front no problem too.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Valrico Florida
Tom, are you running 15" wheels, and what tires are you using? How much sidewall bulge do you have (how much wider are the widest part of the tire than the wheel? I am planning to use 10" wide, 17" diameter wheels for traction and to clear brake calipers. Thanks.
About your issue. Are the inner axles into the rear housing the same on both sides? If the clip comes off the axle inside the housing, the inner axle will move in and out. This would allow the side on which you have clearance to move out. Have you done a cross corner measurement from the trailing arm bolts to the opposite rear corners of the frame? If you can't take clear measurements, a plumb bob and a marker used on a clean floor will get you in the ballpark. This will tell you how square the area of the frame is where the problem is occuring. Just a couple of ideas for consideration. Good luck to you.
About your issue. Are the inner axles into the rear housing the same on both sides? If the clip comes off the axle inside the housing, the inner axle will move in and out. This would allow the side on which you have clearance to move out. Have you done a cross corner measurement from the trailing arm bolts to the opposite rear corners of the frame? If you can't take clear measurements, a plumb bob and a marker used on a clean floor will get you in the ballpark. This will tell you how square the area of the frame is where the problem is occuring. Just a couple of ideas for consideration. Good luck to you.
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From: Des Moines IOWA
My wheels are 20x 8.5 front and 20x10 rear. The backspace is 5.25. I wish I would have gotten a coulple sizes smaller in diameter but hopefully when lowered it will look nice. I dont have the half shafts in but I didnt think that would make a difference. I was talking to my mom whom was there when I pulled the body and whom owned the car for the past 40 years and we are sure that it was like this from the start. I am not sure how the one side ever had the toe adjusted. This car was wrecked when it was near new and doesnt have the correct year frame. I have been finding all kinds of rig jobs on this thing. Thanks for the help.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: DFW
in fact it's more than somewhat. The half shaft doubles as the upper strut rod. Without it you cannot accurately set anything or evaluate clearances!Harry
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Instructor
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From: Des Moines IOWA
I didnt know the haft shafts made a difference. I would think that if they some how hold the suspension to any position that would be bad. Wouldnt that be putting them at a bind or putting stress on them? What be good haft shafts? I was looking at the nitous ready shafts from dennys driveshafts. Are they much better than heavy duty factory one. Price is $160 vs. $230.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Temple Terrace Florida
Frame
You don't list where you are located. If near central Florida, Artie at Van Steel has a c-2 and c-3 frame jig at his shop in Clearwater. He picked up mine at my house in Tampa. His crew sand blasted it and made sure it was within specs and powdercoated it. The frame was delivered back to me a few weeks later, factory fresh and clean. Jerry
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From: Des Moines IOWA
I am located in des moines iowa. The guys at vansteel are super nice though. I talked to them when trying figure out the backspace on my wheel set up. I measured from the trailing arm to the pumpkin and one is a half inch closer. It is like the
hole in the pocket isnt straight or needs drilled differen
hole in the pocket isnt straight or needs drilled differen
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Valrico Florida
Install the half shafts. They will all be the same length. Then figure out the geometry issue - if you actually have any. Put the springs in last.
If you want hell bent for leather drive train parts, Tom's stuff is the way to go but be prepared to spend major bucks.
If you want hell bent for leather drive train parts, Tom's stuff is the way to go but be prepared to spend major bucks.
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St. Jude Donor '07
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not sure why you need beefier half shafts. I don't recall reading about stock BB and L88 tearing them up
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Des Moines IOWA
Well guys this is why I love this forum. If you guys think that the factory shafts will be good I would be more than happy to save myself a ton of money. I dont plan on being too hard on it but I had my uncle in my ear telling me how he broke a shaft everytime he drag raced his 64 vette. He ended up putting a solid axle under it. As far as the trailing arm goes it seems like the bolt hole in the pocket could be changed a hair and fix all my problems. Any thoughts on this or is this a crazy idea. I completely wraped the area with 1/8 inch steel but drill the holes perfectly where they where. I know you would Not want it slotted but if one sides hole was moved a smidge it would put my arm where it needs to be. Here is a pic befor powder coating and grinding.[IMG]
[/IMG] This is the day I brought it home from the powder coater.[IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG] This is the day I brought it home from the powder coater.[IMG][/IMG]
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Des Moines IOWA
Rear shot for Bill
Not a great pic but an idea of 10inch wide wheel on back. Probably need widened qaurters to do it right. Close though with 275/30 tires.[IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][/IMG][IMG]
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[/IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
Team Owner
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From: Washington Michigan
