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Need Help Diagnosing Engine Problem

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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:23 PM
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Default Need Help Diagnosing Engine Problem

I need some opinions on what may be causing a problem that occurs only under certain conditions.

Engine is a '67 427 - 390 hp with new Holley 4160 (specific carb for the application) and rebuilt stock distributor. Car runs well under normal driving conditions.

The problem occurs following hard acceleration. After backing off the throttle, the engine loses power and sounds like it has a potato in each exhaust pipe when attempting acceleration; however, exhaust is coming out of each side pipe. The engine will idle but falters under any load. After the engine cools down, it runs normally until another hard acceleration attempt. Problem seems to occur when the secondaries of the carb open. The gas cap vent is functioning as expected and the secondary plates of the carb are closing correctly.

Thanks for any suggestions you might offer.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:31 PM
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Have you checked to make sure the timing and advance are correct and working properly?
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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Check float levels front and back of carb.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by steampunk c1
Check float levels front and back of carb.
Sounds like fuel starvation, either not enough in the bowl when your floor it or slow refill.
What happens if you stay on it with the four barrell open? Does it keep pulling or lay down? ( Scarry thing to do on the street with a 427 )
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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I had a similar problem with my 67 427/390. Ran fine under normal driving conditions but with wide open throttle it ran out of fuel. Turned out to be a weak fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and it runs fine now.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GRTaylor
I had a similar problem with my 67 427/390. Ran fine under normal driving conditions but with wide open throttle it ran out of fuel. Turned out to be a weak fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and it runs fine now.
When you experienced this, did the car return to normal after the hard acceleration or continue to run in a weakened state as I described in my original post?

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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Any more thoughts?
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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After you make sure you have adequate fuel (no clogged fuel filter or fuel delivery problem),

I would suggest making sure the centrifugal advance weights are free to move,and don't get sticky when the dizzy is hot. Never had a problem like that on my Chevs, but it was an issue on a Ferrari I have, one cylinder bank would have delayed timing (two distributors on the motor) due to sticking weights.

Doug
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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how bout something as simple as point dwell
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 02:37 AM
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Logic 101:

Car runs fine.

Car runs fine under hard acceleration.

Car doesn't run fine after hard acceleration.

We can deduce that:

this is not a constant problem, that is fixed by an adjustment.

Hard accel causes the problem to be noticed.

Thus, the problem is related to hard acceleration,and possibly heat, as the problem disappears after the car cools down.

I was not there,a nd have no direct time reference to the described problems, but they are either fuel related, as in fuel starvation after acceleration (clogged fuel filter), or ignition related, as in retarded timing, based on the symptoms.

You start with the baseline, does it run, does it run well, and look for things that occurred prior to it not running correctly.

Doug
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Logic 101:

Car runs fine.

Car runs fine under hard acceleration.

Car doesn't run fine after hard acceleration.

We can deduce that:

this is not a constant problem, that is fixed by an adjustment.

Hard accel causes the problem to be noticed.

Thus, the problem is related to hard acceleration,and possibly heat, as the problem disappears after the car cools down.

I was not there,a nd have no direct time reference to the described problems, but they are either fuel related, as in fuel starvation after acceleration (clogged fuel filter), or ignition related, as in retarded timing, based on the symptoms.

You start with the baseline, does it run, does it run well, and look for things that occurred prior to it not running correctly.

Doug
Thanks for your suggestions. I don't believe it's heat related. When the symptoms have developed, the car had been running less than 15 minutes. With normal driving for more than an hour, the engine compartment was much hotter but no symptoms experienced. I'm continuing to look into the fuel and distributor advance possibilities.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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OK, in your first post you said the car runs fine again after it cools down, so so maybe cool down isn't the correct term.

Perhaps car runs fine again after it sits a while is a better description.

That points more towards fuel delivery, than anything else.

Doug
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
OK, in your first post you said the car runs fine again after it cools down, so so maybe cool down isn't the correct term.

Perhaps car runs fine again after it sits a while is a better description.

That points more towards fuel delivery, than anything else.

Doug
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Have you checked your spark plugs to see what they look like??? I had something like you had when I put the correct carb back on..ran good under normal conditions...on the highway..cruising along at 2500 RPM..I could feel a surge..almost bucking...check of plugs showed the car way to lean...so I fattened up the jets a few steps and the car runs great now.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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It sounds like vapor lock.

Insulating the fuel line and routing it further away from hot metal parts and hoses will help. Try raising the float levels slightly. More fuel in the bowls should forestall it.

Keep the hood closed but unlatched to let heat escape and try a road test before you do any changes. See if it has any effect.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 10:02 PM
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I think you need new piston return springs.
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
I think you need new piston return springs.
But be sure to get NOS , the repro stuff won't last!

Sorry I couldn't resist!
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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To report on the outcome, the set of NOS piston return springs did the job - NOT!!

I replaced the coil and distributor with an HEI unit and the problem is gone. Thanks for all the replies, even the humorous ones.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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Wow, I am surprised, sure sounded like a fuel issue. Glad is runs good again.
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