From the side, they look square on the shim pad area (the big square area where the bolt holes are). The slot just so I am sure you are following goes parallel (horizontal) to the ground. Basically this shaft you are showing is for camber correction or gain to fix a problem where you can't get enough camber for the tires to stand up straight, but the thread is on castor and this piece could work.

The problem with most people is that they don't know how to string a suspension (old style) or don't have expensive camber/castor gauges or the knowledge to use one. Actually the price of these units has come down and you could pick up a quality unit for around $100 that would work, but that could be alot of money for some on a car project budget. Thus basically you head to the alignment shop and the guy has his computer and the specs for the car in his computer and isn't willing to take or make the spec adjustment and then test and then change that again and again (experiment) to make you happy, unless you are willing to pay extra for all of that experimentation, thus then you could have bought the gauge!

 

My rear end is more adjustable now than the front. So I have eliminated shims in the back end.
But the rear is a pain in the rear with the shims. And because of that, you are still going to the alignment shop for that whether you own a gauge or not.
For our modified cars, we actual used to go to a high speed dynamic alignment guy where the cars are run simulating speed and the suspension was set but that is black magic now and wasn't taught to the younger generation. It would be hard to find a shop that still does that!

 

I have done it that way, although it was a first for me too. Not that difficult. Some sticks, some thin rope, a level and some basic trigonometry is all needed. If you wondered in school what you would ever do in the real world with tangent/cosine/etc, then you know now

There is plenty of reference how to do it on the internet.

 

The solution is these pieces! You can do whatever you want with them and go anywhere in your alignment that you want. I basically have this race version but a street unit is also available and each arm really isn't that expensive.

Unless you are racing in an organization that restricts this type of unit, then you work off of the stock pieces and mill and modify. Thus Just buy these units and you set the front end to your heart content!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Later, going to bed! Take Care!

 

I agree, slotting the shaft makes sense and costs virtually nothing, but these are the shafts I've got



There's not alot of meat around those holes
I've got almost an inch of shims back and front on both sides, so I think I'll get the offset shafts.

 

I use a smartcamber guage and strings on my car, this guage can be used for caster also. On my race car I HAD to have it. I also have to scale the 4 corners (after the alinment is done), but that is a topic for another discussion.



https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1206

 

Looking at those, I don't feel that I would slot that style of shaft! Just not enough meat on the bone. Maybe a little. I assume the bolt hole is 7/16 so you have that, so maybe 3/16 each way possibly. Just eye balling this part you showed last, gives me doubts on that.
Also is that the flip side of the Moog unit that you displayed earlier in the thread (a few posts back).

PS I change my mind, I wouldn't slot that style at all!

 

I figured that you generally know something about suspensions. It is good to hear that someone strings a car still. And the corner weight/ spring rates and scaling is familiar to someone. I actually wasn't trying to beat you up, but you stayed in there on this thread! The race car that you have is a very nice clean no frills ride, as it should be! What prompted this reply, was that I noticed you are from Sarver PA. My ancient relatives are from Ekastown, Sarver Buffalo TWP Butler Co. and some buried in Sarver! Thus if you are disliking me, then you could easily go dig up some of my relative's graves. Thus I just recently traveled right thru your backyard! I ran out of time, but I think Sarver has a Race Track (Sprints, midgets, Hobby stocks etc.). Thus where or how far do you have to travel to the closest big venue to run?

PS If I have greatly helped the OP, my rule is that I am allowed one hi jack posting within the Thread, for one question off topic momentarily until it goes back on track!

 

I think so, unless Van Steel make their own ? It was the only clear pic. of the offset I could find.
Here are my results, I'm to the limit with shims on the RH side and not much thread left on the other

 

I wouldn't be afraid to slot that. You only need to go one way and I agree 3/16 should be enough.
TC, we are cool. Yes, Lernerville Speedway (1/2 mi dirt) is right up the road (I used to race there too in a modified) it's big with the Outlaws. I race at Beaverun where this was taken (bout an hr away)and other tracks on the East coast. I was hit and totally wiped the right side off the car last fall down in Va. Took 8 months to completely rebuild but now I can drive the car with one hand ! It's currently set with 3 degs of caster in front 0 in back. As you guessed these cars are totally adjustable and it takes hours to set em up. Strings for setting toe are the norm (that's the easy part). What do you race ?

 

On a competitively level, mostly motorcycles! Did superbikes just after the Navy and motorcross most of my younger life and desert point to point stuff as I aged (Barstow to Vegas, etc, but never made it to the Baja 1000. Cars-Some sprint car stuff with family, SCCA solo's in the Corvettes (cones, are not my favorite), TCRA- race track testing lapping in the Corvettes, POC (Porsche Club stuff), alot of clandestine Canyon Running with a club since the High School days and well into adult life, drag racing/bracket at a hobby level and street. I got IMSA level license from Bondurant was what led to the purchase of a race car (1964 roadster), but never got that far with that original ambition. Now over 50, so looking to put the 1964 or possibly the 1968 into a Vintage Racing class. I have pulled the 1964 into the garage and am currently reworking things for that reason, but torn because I have kept the car street registered. I have went in one direction (took corvette race car and went to putting it back to street) and then reversed that and went back in the racing direction. Then created a hybrid (street/race track beast out of the 1964). Then watched guys in vintage racing running into each other at those events and didn't want to risk my pride and joy 1964, so I bought the 1968 for racing, but it is a very nice car and didn't want to cut it all up as planned, so I am looking at Vintage racing still, but was too modified for there rules and straddling the line with 6 speed tranny, aluminum block, multi-link rear end. Thus car would be put in Imsa class where it raced at the end of it's career, but that is with Can Am and FIA rides and the speed differentials are concerning. But now I think I will go in that direction because there are less cars fielded running in those classes and usually drivers with more experience are running in those Lolas, McLarens, Porsche 935's, Dekon monzas. Thus they can just treat me as a temporary obstruction in a 1964.
Major life threatening accident on a motorcycle 2010 and 80 pieces of new metal in the body (plates, screws, a titanium rod in one leg, etc.) and 28 pieces from an older accident 1987, family commitments, job duties and travel requirements have always affected any professional thougths and the ability to get out there to do it on a consistent level.
Thus been around, and don't mind helping a guy here or there. I do get short with people at times, probably a product of my career dealing with tenants (evictions, etcs).

 

I had more time to look at the arm shafts you posted. The Moog unit definitely has more meat on the square pad. I will have to get me a set of those, just for the hell of it. Thus that would be the unit to slot. Yes with the other pictured round style shaft without meat, maybe I would elongate the bolt hole a touch, but to the minimum and maybe you can get 3/16 (but maybe) and that would leave some shoulder metal. I would get the other shafts and do it to them. As far as specs, I am running usually 1/2 to 3/4 negative camber front and 1 to 1-1/4 in the back. On the castor I have generally about 1-1/2 positive and on the front toe about 1/8 toe-in but on the back I am doing something completely different than the norm and actually running 1/8 toe out! This is with 10 inch tires!!!!!!! The search originally that I made for added caster, was because of plans to run a 200mph event in Nevada led to the slotting, but now I have the adjustable arms and my whole suspension is adjustable. My next modification is that I am going to add telescoping half shafts after I add a top link to my Bob Riley (Guldstrand marketed) rear suspension.
PS please note that these settings are working for my driving style and what I have been doing with the car and with the modifications and the tires that I have. Thus no recommendation to copy what I am doing!

 

Thanks for the advice, I have a set of MOOG shafts and bushes comming and will probably mill the holes a little as well.
I'm just trying to get it back to "driver" type specs.
It requires alot of effort, it's maxed out with shims and has very little wheel return.
So hopefully that combination makes it more drivable.
Sorry again for Hijacking this thread.
Cheers
Dave