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C1 Frame Issue?

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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Default C1 Frame Issue?

Just installed my engine for the first time in a project car (1958). The front of the engine sits too high for the hood to close. I replaced the front mount cushions with replacements of a less considerable height than the originals. The hood will close, but the clearance is very minimal...1/8" (nose) to 1/4" (back). The 2X4 Clone bases do add about !/8" to the height, but I wonder if the front of my frame is the proper height. The height measurement from the bottom of the lower mount bracket (at the center) to the ground is 15 1/2" on both left and right sides. I did have the frame assessed for straightness and there were no issues, but I wonder if the height measurement as I specified was taken into consideration. I know the AIM provides measurements for height regarding the body and my body sits higher on the frame than specifications, but I would not think this would contribute to this problem. In fact, I would think that if the body was higher than specs, it would provide more height clearance with the engine mounted on the frame. If anyone could provide their height measurement of the bottom of lower mount bracket to the ground as above for comparison it would be helpful. Thanks.

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 06:08 PM
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i'm a bit confused... frame height from the ground should have no effect on how the engine sits in the car. engine clearance to the underside of the hood would be determined by how the body sits on the frame.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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Is there a transmission rubber mount?
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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How many shims do you have in the front body mount between the radiator support and the third arm bracket?
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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Yes there is a transmission rubber mount. Regarding the radiator support:



I don't believe the nose needs to be raised as you can seen in the picture below, I would not want to increase the gap in the front wheel well.



I thought if the front of the frame was too high this would result in the engine sitting too high in the front.

Last edited by blackvette58; Feb 25, 2013 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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This is the bottom of the bracket for the motor mount.



The measurement was taken from the center of the flat piece between the two holes.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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the only thing you can do, at this point, to lower the engine is to make the motor mount rubber as think as reasonable. pix of the motor mounts would help.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 09:25 AM
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The replacement motor mount cushion is about 3/4" now whereas the original was about 1 9/16"; would not want to go any thinner.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by blackvette58
The replacement motor mount cushion is about 3/4" now whereas the original was about 1 9/16"; would not want to go any thinner.
i agree...

have you placed the aircleaner on and tried closing the hood using something deformable lke clay to show the clearance? yep, i remember you giving a clearance dimension; how did you get it?
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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What do you mean by "2-4's Clone bases" ? If not using stock manifold or carbs that might be the problem
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
What do you mean by "2-4's Clone bases" ? If not using stock manifold or carbs that might be the problem
some WCFBs have slightly thicker baseplates and these are often used for clone carburetors...

what puzzles me is that Frank even has heat insulating spacers between his carbs and the manifold and he doesn't have a clearance problem.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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I used playdough with the aircleaner mounted to get the measurements. The stock WCFB carburetor bases used for clones (1957) are at least 1/8" higher than the stock 2X4 Carb set-up. But I do not believe this created an issue for others with a similar set-up. The manifold is original and stock. There is a reason for this problem and I, and others, have not been able to diagnose it as of yet. Remedies have been taken to deal with the symptom, but not the cause.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
some WCFBs have slightly thicker baseplates and these are often used for clone carburetors...

what puzzles me is that Frank even has heat insulating spacers between his carbs and the manifold and he doesn't have a clearance problem.
Bill
Exactly right. I ran my clones and a 1/4" spacer under the carbs for a short time - no problem but the clearance was very tight. Discovered I didn't need the spacers with the clones so removed them later on.

Take a piece of clay, plumber's putty or strip caulk and put it on the air cleaner front edge to a thickness of about 1/2". Put some talcum powder or light grease on the hood where the putty could potentially hit to keep it from sticking up there. Carefully close the hood and determine the clearance. If it looks OK then close the hood again (still with the putty on) and start and rev the engine a few times and recheck. If all is well, then remove the putty and drive on.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 12:35 PM
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I can't see from your pictures, but do you have the upper fan shroud installed?? Reason I mention that is if the body shimming under the radiator (as John Z pointed out) is off, those holes won't line up with the radiator support which would "show you" where the problem is. My guess is you need to shim under the radiator support a bit more. I personally don't like those original paper shims they used and made my own out of SS. If they get wet they are not effected. Pilot Dan
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by blackvette58
I used playdough with the aircleaner mounted to get the measurements. The stock WCFB carburetor bases used for clones (1957) are at least 1/8" higher than the stock 2X4 Carb set-up. But I do not believe this created an issue for others with a similar set-up. The manifold is original and stock. There is a reason for this problem and I, and others, have not been able to diagnose it as of yet. Remedies have been taken to deal with the symptom, but not the cause.
i agree, there is a reason... but at this point i doubt if there is an easy painless way to fix it without some sort of shimming the body up. are you using the OEM aircleaner assembly with the correct filter element?
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 01:41 PM
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The radiator shroud is installed properly. I don't know if it is associated with a reproduction shroud as sometimes reproduction parts are not the exact measurement of the originals but I did have to use a 16" in fan for clearance. The air cleaner is the sealed type (no replaceable element); a reproduction of the original.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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Maybe the actual height of the car is a spring issue. If that is the case the radiator support could be shimmed to get proper clearance. It looks like your radiator support is not really shimmed, it just has the fiber pieces. That is also is probably why you can't use the correct fan.

Last edited by narlee; Feb 26, 2013 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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is the fan centered in the shroud? or to which side is it closest, and by how much?

actual car height doesn't have an effect on this. unless there is some droop in the fiberglass front end, shimming the radiator support might induce some stresses in the fiberglass and joints.

once again, you can try it; raising some part of the body. or, cut the motor mount brackets loose from the frame and lower the engine (might make your fan problem worse...)

as Frank said, if you have clearance with it running; forget it and drive it...
Bill
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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It looks like the radiator support was reshimmed, did you do it. If it has been redone with less shims that could also cause stress. I can't imagine cutting the mount brackets unless someone had previously moved them. Like I said earlier address the springs for ride height. Also as previously said if it has enough clearance you might just leave it.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Checking the hood clearance further I find that the hood rests on the leading edge of the air cleaner...no clearance when closed. I would assume the car should not be driven in such a circumstance. When I purchased this project the body was on the frame but not attached nor shimmed. I had shimmed the radiator support. The body was shimmed with the gaps in the doors, front and back, as the criterion. I find that even if I loosen the front mounting bolts and jack up the front end, while it raises the height of the front end excessively from an appearance point of view, it does not affect the hood closing. I am going to adjust the bolts attaching the hood to the radiator support bracket (raise it) to see if that makes a difference.

Last edited by blackvette58; Feb 27, 2013 at 08:52 AM.
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