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My lights all come on but neither side flip up. Is there any tests I can run or is there any fuses which could be out? I am getting current to the switch on the dash and out again.
1) Did they work before?
2) Did you use the headlamp up/down switch to open the doors?
3) You ARE aware the headlights only come on/off with the traditional headlamp switch on the dash, right?
4) If 1=yes, then open the hood and manually open the headlignts a little with the small ***** on the motor, then try the switch again
4) If 1=yes, then open the hood and manually open the headlignts a little with the small ***** on the motor, then try the switch again
Jeff
With the hood open chock it or put a bolt through the long hinge so it won't drop closed if bumped. You may need a mirror and flashlight to look for the little wheel/****. When you turn it, it will be veerryy slow to move the bucket. Dennis
I checked wiring and it seems fine, nothing loose.
Raised the lights with the knurled wheel and lowered them with the switch, but they will not go back up on the switch??????
Thanks for the help so far but need more!!!!
Stephen
Have you checked that you're getting voltage to the motors?
Remove the wire connector at the motor and check the voltage to that point. One terminal in the connector should show voltage when the dash switch is pushed up and the other terminal shows voltage when the dash switch is pushed down. Put the volt meter positive probe in the connector and ground the negative probe of the meter while a helper pushes the dash switch up and down. Dave
Having same issue with my 67. After manually opening, lens will close with dash switch, but will not open. Tried volt meter, motors getting power. Another issue which probably is related, dimmer floor switch when engaged turns off the lights instead of activating the hi beam's.
Have wiring diagram and traced looking for faulty ground..still no luck. Any help would be appreciated!!
Have you checked that you're getting voltage to the motors?
Remove the wire connector at the motor and check the voltage to that point. One terminal in the connector should show voltage when the dash switch is pushed up and the other terminal shows voltage when the dash switch is pushed down. Put the volt meter positive probe in the connector and ground the negative probe of the meter while a helper pushes the dash switch up and down. Dave
Power for headlight up and down come thru the bulkhead firewall connector blocks. Check these to make sure they have not pulled (slightly) apart. This is a common issue.
The headlight roll switch may also have corroded contacts, or the circuit breaker that supplies power to this switch could also be a problem. This circuit breaker is located on the driver side footwell near the foot dimmer switch and air vent grill.
Having same issue with my 67. After manually opening, lens will close with dash switch, but will not open. Tried volt meter, motors getting power. Another issue which probably is related, dimmer floor switch when engaged turns off the lights instead of activating the hi beam's.
Have wiring diagram and traced looking for faulty ground..still no luck. Any help would be appreciated!!
You probably have a bad dimmer switch for the issue with brights. You can buy one at most auto parts stores. Another possibility, you could have two bad bulbs in the bright circuit. You can troubleshoot the dimmer by measuring for 12v on the tan wire when on dim and 12v on both tan and light green wires when on bright. That won't have anything to do with your headlights rolling over.
It takes more power to raise something than to lower it because gravity isn't helping.
You have low amperage to the motors, corrosion or loose connectors somewhere, there is excessive friction in the headlight bucket rotational parts, or, the lube in your headlight motors has turned to Dial soap and the effort to raise the buckets is overwhelming the motors now.
Also a galled main gear in the motor drive section could be working against you - the last two items are VERY common problem and easily fixed.
You may have same problem I had. My buckets on my 64 would go up but would'nt go down. Had other things to work on so when I got home at night, I would use the wheels to close them back down. A few days later I found a little spring clip on the carpet under the headlight switch. What happened was the switch was comming apart. One side of the switch plastic clips had came apart and the one spring tension spring for the close position was comming out and finally fell out. I thought there goes another $100.00, but got the switch completly apart and put the spring rocker clip back in and for peace of mind, wrapped it with a round or two of black electrical tape around the outside two snap conectors and it has been fine for a year now. My car is a driver, so as long as it works good thats all I need. Would have to really look under the dash to even begin to see the fix and then hard to see since the switch is black to begin with. May or may not be the problem with your buckets. Good luck, life is good when can figure out how to fix it yourself !!
Still puzzled.. last night tried the following:
- Tested and getting power from headlight switch to lens. After manual open, lens close evenly and smoothly. Motors working, no unusual sound or grinding of gear, appears no excessive friction on bucket parts.
- Apply additional lube to the headlight motor pivot *****.
- Bulkhead firewall connector blocks fine with no loose wires or corrosion.
- No corrosion or loose wires on headlight roll switch.
- 40 Amp Circuit breaker under dash tested fine.
Grasping for any other ideas and noticed when activating headlight motor switch to raise lens, interior lights will slightly dim..doesn't seem unusual.Floor mounted hi-beam dimmer switch currently turns off both headlights instead of activating hi-beams..replacement part should be tomorrow and don't think its related based on comment from this forum...the mystery continues..appreciate any other advise..
B) You have worn big gears in your headlight motors and when you hold the switch on too long too close both of them, the gears will bind and overpower the motor. If you can turn the thumbwheel a few turns and then the lights raise, that would kind of confirm this. It's not clear to me if your buckets will raise at all on the switch. Please clarify.
B) You have worn big gears in your headlight motors and when you hold the switch on too long too close both of them, the gears will bind and overpower the motor. If you can turn the thumbwheel a few turns and then the lights raise, that would kind of confirm this. It's not clear to me if your buckets will raise at all on the switch. Please clarify.
Mike,
Buckets won't raise at all on the switch, but they shut smoothly with no issue after I manually open.
Agree dimmer switch is not related..
OP was last year. That's why I try to get everyone to open their own thread, just as you did. It gets so confusing trying to answer problems that have already been resolved when a "similar" problem is added on.
OP was last year. That's why I try to get everyone to open their own thread, just as you did. It gets so confusing trying to answer problems that have already been resolved when a "similar" problem is added on.
I didn't notice that was an old thread. Had I noticed, I wouldn't have responded.
But, that's also a good reason for the persons asking for answer to give followup on everyone's diagnosis of the problem.