Overheating is an Understatement
Le Mans Master
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From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
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From: Washington Michigan
Le Mans Master
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From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
My experience - the correct fan shroud, correctly installed (and perhaps all gaps insulated as you get with an A/C car) in conjunction with the correct fan, positioned correctly on a fan clutch (which locks up per spec) keeps a C2 Corvette from running too hot on a hot (90 degree and +) day. Even when I had an A/C compressor on my car (VA, since removed).
I'd politely suggest that these cars, when new, were capable of being run on a hot day with the A/C on without overheating. Hence my decision to "return everything to oem condition" to put the overheating situation behind me, which worked for me.
I'd politely suggest that these cars, when new, were capable of being run on a hot day with the A/C on without overheating. Hence my decision to "return everything to oem condition" to put the overheating situation behind me, which worked for me.
The ability to cool down a triple black C2 is worth the fan alone.
Under hood temps plummet when you need them to. Makes for an easy start in the hottest weather.Was 101 here today.
As I said before. Mine is up to spec shroud and all. Mine is in OEM condition also. Other than VA and SPAL. Anyone who knows my build knows I have taken full advantage of every "correct" suggestion here on the forum. I will be changing the sensor position though.
Last edited by MiguelsC2; Aug 7, 2013 at 11:43 PM.
Safety Car
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restortion on my 64 coup here is a picture to the left is a part everone is using to control fans go to thread he explans it very well
Drifting
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From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Water Outlet
RON
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From: Denver CO
Drifting
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From: Santa Barbara California
Although not as good as a DeWitts repro, that Griffin radiator, in good condition, has plenty of capacity for your car's engine. My bride's track car runs this radiator which cools a 377 in full song lap after lap. On-track coolant temps have never gotten above 180.
That said, you might want to run your hand all around the front of the core to ensure that the whole radiator is participating in cooling the engine.
Jim
That said, you might want to run your hand all around the front of the core to ensure that the whole radiator is participating in cooling the engine.
Jim
Yup.
The fallacy of the water-is-moving-too-fast-through-the-radiator-to-cool argument, is the other side of the equation is ignored. That the water is also moving through the block too fast to pick up any heat. If you slow water on the cooling side to make it cooler, you also slow water on the heating side, so it gets hotter. You are going to get some delta T across the radiator, depending on the flow velocity, higher vels means lower delta T, but same on the block side, higher flows mean less heat is picked up, also a lower delta T
It is a closed system, if fluid flow velocity increases on one side, thus they have to increase on the other side.
Doug
The fallacy of the water-is-moving-too-fast-through-the-radiator-to-cool argument, is the other side of the equation is ignored. That the water is also moving through the block too fast to pick up any heat. If you slow water on the cooling side to make it cooler, you also slow water on the heating side, so it gets hotter. You are going to get some delta T across the radiator, depending on the flow velocity, higher vels means lower delta T, but same on the block side, higher flows mean less heat is picked up, also a lower delta T
It is a closed system, if fluid flow velocity increases on one side, thus they have to increase on the other side.
Doug
Le Mans Master
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From: New York New York
2024 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You can get one from Four Seasons from your local parts store.
The retail under $15.00.
Joe
http://www.4s.com/Online%20Catalogs-...g/Content.aspx
The retail under $15.00.
Joe
http://www.4s.com/Online%20Catalogs-...g/Content.aspx
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email jerry he will tell ya where to get it and send you his link That was his car in the picture
jforthofer@windstream.net>
jforthofer@windstream.net>
Le Mans Master
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '20 thru '25
I remember having this issue with my 67 GTO in 1970. I had thought removing the thermostat would allow for cooler temps. It did not. I was told by an old mechanic that slowing the flow actually enables the fluid to be more effectively be cooled via the air transfer through the radiator cooling fins. He was correct. Once the factory spec thermostat was installed, no more issue.
-- Steve
Le Mans Master
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From: Westport CT
Big difference between Conn. climate and Houston. How it's being driven with a/c on also makes a big difference. I tend to let it rip when I drive. Builds heat fast. No problem with parade or even brisk driving.
The ability to cool down a triple black C2 is worth the fan alone.
Under hood temps plummet when you need them to. Makes for an easy start in the hottest weather.Was 101 here today.
As I said before. Mine is up to spec shroud and all. Mine is in OEM condition also. Other than VA and SPAL. Anyone who knows my build knows I have taken full advantage of every "correct" suggestion here on the forum. I will be changing the sensor position though.
The ability to cool down a triple black C2 is worth the fan alone.
Under hood temps plummet when you need them to. Makes for an easy start in the hottest weather.Was 101 here today.
As I said before. Mine is up to spec shroud and all. Mine is in OEM condition also. Other than VA and SPAL. Anyone who knows my build knows I have taken full advantage of every "correct" suggestion here on the forum. I will be changing the sensor position though.
) or who drives their car with more "spirit" (we can call that a draw 
- but I'd suggest that parade duty on a hot day would be the most demanding test of a C2's cooling system, not that I have ever been in a parade - but stop and go traffic, yes.) I do stand by my assertion that plenty of these 63 - 67 SB Corvettes were sold, even in SoCal, NM, AZ, TX, FL, etc. with a/c, and they were capable of being run in the summertime without needing to be parked in the shade until October due to overheating problems. Without an electric fan replacing the oem unit.And I am certainly not questioning the quality of your build
Le Mans Master
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From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13
Was out with mine today. After an hour of driving in noon time heat plenty of starts and stops. I get a steady IR and gauge reading of 210 with a/c and no fan. The fender was 140. And that's normal when temps are 95.
But as I said before, I use my fan mainly to cool down the car at short stops and after hot drives. Makes for very easy re-starts. Black cars have a 40% increase in body temps over light colors.
There is a valid reason for an electric fan on many levels. Matter of preference I guess.
Now if you want get in a pissing match and make me repeat myself for a third time? Go for it!
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I had a 63 split window which was white and a 2007 convertable with a blue top must be the white / blue That sets off the car .
When I sold my split window in 2007 people in the market told me white was unpopular .Still to this day I dont believe that .I am painting my split now to Sebring Silver only because its a sebring silver vet .Who cares take the thermostate out ,nice vet
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
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I had a 63 split window which was white and a 2007 convertable with a blue top must be the white / blue That sets off the car .
When I sold my split window in 2007 people in the market told me white was unpopular , and investnment wise it was not good Still to this day I dont believe that .I am painting my split now to Sebring Silver only because its a Sebring Silver vet . ,nice vet Still wanted to show the blue tops I have had and are my favoites
Last edited by rtruman; Aug 8, 2013 at 08:07 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: The Golden Triangle, Florida
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '20 thru '25
Rat dog that is beatiful Vet love white and blue top,
I had a 63 split window which was white and a 2007 convertable with a blue top must be the white / blue That sets off the car .
When I sold my split window in 2007 people in the market told me white was unpopular , and investnment wise it was not good Still to this day I dont believe that .I am painting my split now to Sebring Silver only because its a Sebring Silver vet . ,nice vet Still wanted to show the blue tops I have had and are my favoites
I had a 63 split window which was white and a 2007 convertable with a blue top must be the white / blue That sets off the car .
When I sold my split window in 2007 people in the market told me white was unpopular , and investnment wise it was not good Still to this day I dont believe that .I am painting my split now to Sebring Silver only because its a Sebring Silver vet . ,nice vet Still wanted to show the blue tops I have had and are my favoites
-- Steve
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Iowa
My experiences with oem cooling have been that these systems work well when new. However, I prefer the electric fan over the oem setup...oem is what it is, and I have had many older cars from the 60s era and the oem systems work provided all the sub systems are in top condition...however, not much margin for error and adding a/c, black paint and 95 degree temps, elevation, etc, further reduces that margin. Air flow is fair through the grill on C2s and it gets worse with the C3 design...had one of those as well and it ran hot all the time even after refurbing the oem system.
As a reference, in my 67 I run a 450hp 383 with a Dewitts rad/electric fan at 7K+ altitude and an electric fuel pump. With the lower boiling temps, overheating and vapor lock are all too common...oem fuel pump and oem cooling didn't make the grade. By the way, the car was doing the same when I bought it and it was at sea level down in San Antonio...oh yeah, it was 95 degrees + when I test drove it...no a/c and its blue...
Anyway, I prefer the engine compartment without a shroud and a fan blade...makes it easier to clean and work if necessary.
To each his own...do what works for your car and that is really all that matters...
Frank
As a reference, in my 67 I run a 450hp 383 with a Dewitts rad/electric fan at 7K+ altitude and an electric fuel pump. With the lower boiling temps, overheating and vapor lock are all too common...oem fuel pump and oem cooling didn't make the grade. By the way, the car was doing the same when I bought it and it was at sea level down in San Antonio...oh yeah, it was 95 degrees + when I test drove it...no a/c and its blue...
Anyway, I prefer the engine compartment without a shroud and a fan blade...makes it easier to clean and work if necessary.
To each his own...do what works for your car and that is really all that matters...
Frank
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From: Denver CO
Nice one buddy. Back in Jersey and supporting your guys the best we can, 'cause that's what Structural guys are here for.
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Instructor
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From: Denver CO
OP Update: Good news
The good news:
The DeWitt's radiator is installed and is working like a dream. It can idol and cruise around the city all day. The initial test was in the garage where at idol it raised up to 195, the fans kicked on, and it dropped back down to 175. I let it go through two cycles of raising up and falling down to my delight.
The DeWitt's radiator is installed and is working like a dream. It can idol and cruise around the city all day. The initial test was in the garage where at idol it raised up to 195, the fans kicked on, and it dropped back down to 175. I let it go through two cycles of raising up and falling down to my delight.
