performace heads...






Yep, too much comp+ too much advance+poor fuel, add in a heavy foot with too much rpm= damaged engine. People don't realize the power of detonation.
Anybody want a nice 519 block?
I hope the rod is fine! Car has H beam rods in it? I spoke wrong about the cam, its the DZ 302 road race cam, bottom end sucks but its revves like crazy, I backed down the RPMS though, the msd is set at 7500 now. If this is the current cam card for the cam thats in the motor its 493 intake 512 exhaust, which im guessing is correct, other cam card i have says 510 510 @50, on a 114, i think thats in the truck...
Im not sure what the real cubic inch is, i know in like 89-90 it was either 30 or 60 over, then it got a refresh in 00, that was .30 over then in 06 the lunati ultra light nascar crank went in with .70 or so head gaskets so it didnt hit.. I want to say the crank is a 4.25 or 4.5 stroke, I guess we can measure everything this time and ill put it some place i can remember lol.. Things went well for a long time, then we swapped intake manifolds, back in 2011 i guess it was and it woke it up on the top end.. I dont know what the true hp is, in the old set up it made 350whp at 3800 rpms but the timming was crazy, it was advancing to 60+ *.. and would not revve over 4000.. I bought a lock kit and put it on but we havent been back... i hope the little motor makes over 400 whp.. its the scariest slow car ive ridden in a long time, 7.70 X15 bia ply's with 4:56 gears and the close ratio trans lol...
The guy that built this motor and all my other crap said he has a set of heads, going to try to get by and check them out.. ive never been ripped off from him so im sure they fine, i just like to look first
ive slept since i talked to him but i think he said they had 210cc, angled plug, and 7X cc should lower my compression a little bit, but ill still need 110 leaded or more fuel, but they should flow a lot better than my current one. He said he would just buy them bare and reuse my stuff. a 208 valve will go but not worth money. They are aslo aluminum, so should help with heat. If i pick them up im going to have them painted back orange lol
I guess to be on the safe side, ill just go threw the entire motor, refresh everything, and take measurements..
The big block piston deal sucked... its been a bad year for motors for me lol.. I put in 39 gallons of fuel and it broke in 7 miles, the suburban gets about 5.5 mpg.. I wasnt happy for sure. I just bought a replace 8.1L for it, kept all the turbo stuff, and old motor.. going to buy a set of stock pistons, cram it all in the 70 impala and let her eat... I want to see what these "junk truck motors" can handle.. It lived three years on 14 psi of boost and got 9200 lbs in the low 13's with all stock stuff.. Granted the stock converter got hurt, and the transmission was cussing me but it worked... ive got some videos of it some place if you ever want to see it.
Do not bother with those 210cc runner heads.....it will be a slug off bottom and run like crap until about 6000 rpm......
If I were you....get a set of Dart Pro1 Platinum in the 180cc runner size.....buy them with the CNC chamber option for 72cc's
Measure the stroke with the piston at the bottom of the bore with a ruler.....either 3.250 or 3.480....
A pop up such as that with a 72cc chamber in a 3.250 stroke will
get you in the high 10 to 1 range....this should work with a careful timing curve and a CNC chamber.....
The Dart head needs not be ported as it is a lost foam casting that are wet flowed from the factory......that make crazy power out of the box.
AFR has a product that makes more power but is about twice the money.....
These heads with your other parts and that cam will make around 380-390 at the wheel.....475hp out of a 327 is a ton....you can make a lot more but not with shelf parts and a lot of tweaking.
If you go through the whole motor.....countour the piston domes to bring compression down and reduce "hot spots" at the piston dome peaks....
Jebby
Get the 75 cc combustion chamber versions to drop that compression a bit. And be glad you had forged pistons. Hypereutectics and a good number of cast pistons would shatter like glass under that kind of impact.
With the piston at the top the dome is half a inch above the block.
I have no clue what the head measurement is or how to do it see if it been shaved or decked.
Last edited by Kerr; Aug 22, 2013 at 05:03 PM.
Assuming the dome is 11cc like most of them are (Lunati,Manley,SRP)
You will get about 11 to 1 compression with a 72cc chamber....
Dart does make a lower cost version of the PRO1 called the SHP...about $250 cheaper a head.....you lose about 20+ CFM with this deal though.....the SHP is made with 356 aluminum instead of the 355 that Dart normally uses as well....a little softer and not as forgiving to weld on for repair.
Radius the domes and lean back the valve pocket with a carbide/tootsie roll.....run .051 gasket and you will see 10.5 to 1....
Whatever you decide...keep us posted!
Jebby
I dont have the room to do it in the garage at the house, so im waiting on my buddy to get a twin turbo ls build finished in a 62 C10 truck lol..
What do you all think about intake manifolds, That big ugly Team G flows good, but i just dont like how it looks. Im thinking two things,
1) sand off the team G logos, then buy that finger thing that make stuff look textured... im so drawing a blank on the name.. anyway do that then paint it the correct color.
2) see if i can find something that is more peroid correct that will flow better. I have the stock one but it doesnt do well in the upper rpms.
Also going to use a thicker head gasket. There is no way around running race gas but maybe now it will not spark on 110 like it does now every now and then..
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