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Generator to Alternator

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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 11:35 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Bacci
A Mad article did say that the wiring method, terminalizing points, used by GM was part of the correct functioning of their charging system.
What are terminalized points?

Doug
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 03:32 PM
  #42  
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Default Genrator to alternator

Originally Posted by AZDoug
What are terminalized points?

Doug
Go to Mad Electrical's web site and read the "How it works" article. This is not the article I read years ago but in the very last part it tries to explain how the wiring is organized and the power requirements distributed has an effect on how the alternator's output is controlled by the regulator. I was considering trying to terminate most of the wiring to a central distribution point to duplicate GM's approach but then decide to convert the Vette back to a generator. On the Vette I considered getting the 12 volt source from the area of the horn relay in an effort to better monitor the actual voltage drop in the wiring system vs. coming straight from the battery.
However, there are many hotrods using alternators and maybe I'm missing something?
Mad Electrical link:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...witworks.shtml
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
What are terminalized points?

Doug
Just noticed that the wiring diagram in the first post does show the central distribution of the wiring at the terminal block. It has not been said but I think that to charge correctly this type of terminal point is essential.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #44  
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Okay, I removed the resistor but I want a light indicator if possible. Where can I buy an 8 ohm, 12v lamp, I've looked everywhere?
And you say "assuming it's wired properly". I have it wired per my sketch in post 10. Is that not wired correctly?
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #45  
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Try a 168 bulb (I believe that is what GM used in that time frame for the idiot lights with the 10SI series of alternators). But not knowing what type of bulb socket you are using makes it rather difficult to suggest a bulb............

As for your wiring, I cannot know that you did or did not wire it correctly. Your inability, or lack of understanding, or obtaining direction from elsewhere, to follow my directions leads me to a lack of confidense in your capabilities or knowledge. I only suggested that you check your wiring. And I have not checked your schematic, since I had previously suggested you use mine. Since you chose not to, I can make no further recomendations. Please talk to the people who are helping you on your end.

And yes, I deleted all my previous posts, since there is no need to confuse anyone in the future with possibly conflicting directions (these threads tend to live forever).

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Dec 26, 2013 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #46  
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Wasn't the 8-10 ohm resistor/bulb in the wire designed to prevent feedback so that the car would not keep running when shut off? I know some outfits sell diodes to prevent feedback.

Or does the resistance help with the alternator function at low speeds?

Doug
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Wasn't the 8-10 ohm resistor/bulb in the wire designed to prevent feedback so that the car would not keep running when shut off? I know some outfits sell diodes to prevent feedback.

Or does the resistance help with the alternator function at low speeds?

Doug
Doug,

With the single pole ignition switch (as on a C1), a diode is needed in addition to the resistor or lamp, to prevent feedback from the alternator feeding the ignition.

I had previously posted a separate schematic with a diode, but have since removed it to prevent OP confusion.

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Dec 26, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #48  
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That's the first thing I checked when I started the engine, and it did shut off without an inline diode. Perhaps the required diode is in the alternator.

Plasticman,
I appreciate your help, but by the time you posted your diagram, i had it already wired based on go ahead i received from other members and local help. Yours differed slightly but looked like it accomplished the same thing so I didn't change anything.
I'll see if I can get this bulb and associated socket. Maybe this will fix my problem.
Thanks
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #49  
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Just wanted to let everyone know that I finally got the alternator installed and running correctly. I removed the lamp indicator so the drawing now looks like my original in post #1. Trying to keep that was a PITA. What does anybody need it for if you have the gauge anyway. More trouble than it's worth!
I also added the diode in the field wire per all of your suggestions. Runs great, charges at 14 volts at idle, couldn't be happier.
Thanks to everyone for making it possible.
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