Suspension bushing kit
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Sedona Arizona
Suspension bushing kit
After sitting for over 10 years, the '67 I inherited is finally running. New battery, graphite plug wires, PCV valve, rotor cap, plugs, oil change, carb gaskets, valve cover gaskets, coolant hoses and front brake pads.
The next step is to replace the suspension bushings and whatever else may be required for the suspension. The car is completely stock and I don't see where any parts of the suspension has ever been replaced (my grandfather and father were meticulous about keeping receipts, so I can see virtually everything that has been done to the car). Considering the bushings are 46 years old, I figure it's time for them to get replaced.
I looked on Amazon for bushing kits, but they seem to range all over the map. Can someone help me with what I will need to start with? I don't mind using polyurethane instead of plain rubber or anything like that (in fact I probably prefer it).
Oh yes, it's manual, not power steering in case that matters.
Thanks!
The next step is to replace the suspension bushings and whatever else may be required for the suspension. The car is completely stock and I don't see where any parts of the suspension has ever been replaced (my grandfather and father were meticulous about keeping receipts, so I can see virtually everything that has been done to the car). Considering the bushings are 46 years old, I figure it's time for them to get replaced.
I looked on Amazon for bushing kits, but they seem to range all over the map. Can someone help me with what I will need to start with? I don't mind using polyurethane instead of plain rubber or anything like that (in fact I probably prefer it).
Oh yes, it's manual, not power steering in case that matters.
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,139
Likes: 9,447
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
By all from Moog from any parts house. And stay with OEM rubber. Unles you like more squeaks and rattles. And replacing them sooner then rubber
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
MonkeyClaw:
I would get the MOOG ball joints ( upper and lower), tie-rod ends ( inner and outer) and idler arm from AMAZON. I just had a customer who did this and it saved him a bunch of $$$$. Check prices and see.
As for the upper and lower control arm bushings...you have 3 options. 1.) Stock rubber. 2.) Polyurethane and 3.) Delrin bushings with grease fittings from Global West.
They go as numbered...number 1 is the easiest (but still a pain)...2 a bit harder...and 3 is for the advanced guy ...that one is for sure.
You HAVE to make sure that if you are dong it...or having someone install these bushings that if a press is being used to install them...that you have the tools that keep the lower control arms from getting collapsed and damaged due to their design. I have also made the same similar tool for the uppers when I do them.
You can get heavy duty sleeves for the tie rods from Vette Brakes and Products if you care to....or use the tubes and clamps like you more than likely have now.
As for using urethane...if you apply the correct grease during assembly...and tighten the bolts for the control arm bushings when the car is at correct ride height...I have some that are 20+ years old and are not needing service or replacement. But I know some people have had problems...and I am sorry to rear that...but I have not to date.
Now for the rear strut rods...I do have to agree that the urethane bushing can fail...but then again...so do the rubber ones. Which is why if the customer can afford it and wants them...I prefer to use the spherical end strut rods with grease fittings.
DUB
I would get the MOOG ball joints ( upper and lower), tie-rod ends ( inner and outer) and idler arm from AMAZON. I just had a customer who did this and it saved him a bunch of $$$$. Check prices and see.
As for the upper and lower control arm bushings...you have 3 options. 1.) Stock rubber. 2.) Polyurethane and 3.) Delrin bushings with grease fittings from Global West.
They go as numbered...number 1 is the easiest (but still a pain)...2 a bit harder...and 3 is for the advanced guy ...that one is for sure.
You HAVE to make sure that if you are dong it...or having someone install these bushings that if a press is being used to install them...that you have the tools that keep the lower control arms from getting collapsed and damaged due to their design. I have also made the same similar tool for the uppers when I do them.
You can get heavy duty sleeves for the tie rods from Vette Brakes and Products if you care to....or use the tubes and clamps like you more than likely have now.
As for using urethane...if you apply the correct grease during assembly...and tighten the bolts for the control arm bushings when the car is at correct ride height...I have some that are 20+ years old and are not needing service or replacement. But I know some people have had problems...and I am sorry to rear that...but I have not to date.
Now for the rear strut rods...I do have to agree that the urethane bushing can fail...but then again...so do the rubber ones. Which is why if the customer can afford it and wants them...I prefer to use the spherical end strut rods with grease fittings.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,685
Likes: 61
Contact Dick Guldstrand in Burbank, California with suspension questions. He can supply parts for restoration, race, or any combination. Hard to beat his 50+ years of C2 experience.
I put polygraphite bushings in my '90 Suburban. They only squeaked going over speed bumps, and lasted a couple hundred thousand miles.
I put polygraphite bushings in my '90 Suburban. They only squeaked going over speed bumps, and lasted a couple hundred thousand miles.
