Hey all,
Last time I did an engine/trans swap on the vette, I had sidepipes, and swapped the trans as well as engine. Now I'm swapping engine only. I had initially planned to pull engine/trans together, but crawling around underneath it, it sure is looking easier to pull the engine only now that I have an exhaust in the way, and dont need to pull trans as well.
That being said, I haven't ever pulled just the engine. What's the accepted and easist way? if I just loosen trans mount bolts and jack it up as a unit to get my motor mounts to clear?, will my tunnel interfere with my upper trans to bellhousing bolts??
I'd appreciate experiences/tips. Thanks,

Steve

 

I just pulled my eng in the 65. I just supported the trans with a floor jack. Removed dist and intake. Gives a lot more room to work and it was coming off anyway. Removed rad fan and rad. Disconnected ancillary stuff. Disconnected bell housing from eng. removed eng mount through bolts. Pulled the eng up, forward and out. Hopefully it will go back in with reverse procedure!

Tom

 

Thanks Tom, I wasn't sure if it'd be easier to disconnect at the bell housing or at the trans. I've always pulled the combos apart at the transmission before to best insure not snarfing up the pilot bearing on re install. I'm not messing with the throwout bearing or anything, so it's sure tempting to just split them at the bellhousing.
Any others...bueller?

 

There is a very good "checklist" on page 6-33 of the '63 shop manual. Just support the transmission, unbolt it from the bell housing, and follow the checklist to make certain everything else is unhooked. Never done it before and I found it pretty simple and error free.

 

Don't know how the dimensional differences between SB and BB radiator supports will affect the procedure, but I've had the motor out of the red thing a few times and left the bellhousing attached to the trans. Left the radiator and shroud in place. All the front accessories came off (PS pump/ alt / water pump). Needs a LOT less forward movement of the engine to clear the firewall doing it this way. Only thing out of the ordinary I had to do was turn the motor 90 degrees and pull the passenger side exhaust manifold. Then it came right out. Doubt that would be necessary on a SB.

If you leave the bellhousing in place, still support the transmission. Not sure how well the bellhousing will take support stress of the weight of the trans.

 

PROFESSIONAL ADVICE....for what it is worth.

If you car was in my shop I would pull both...at the same time. Regardless if it is a manual or automatic.

I have an engine tilter that allows me to tilt the engine while coming out so once the transmission has come off the transmission crossmember...I would be able to start tiling the assembly and get it out without too much trouble at all. NOW...I also do not use a "cherry-picker". I have a chain hoist that is attached to my ceiling that can support it.

Trying to get your manual transmission back in without damaging anything is quite a task...and you better be REALLY GOOD..because if you do not get the transmission to engage into the clutch disc and pilot busing under no un-due stress...you can screw up your clutch disc if the transmission hangs on it at all....then you will be pulling the clutch out and doing it due to a warped disc center.

Most "things" come apart fine...but going back together is another situation ENTIRELY.

Trying to do this without my engine tilter would be a nightmare. I could not do what I do without it. I have in the past without an engine tilter...and I FOUGHT IT. Once I bought an engine tilter...it made all the difference in the world and engine/transmission assemblies go in much, much easier.

DUB

 

This isn't "professional" advice because I don't charge for it.

I balance the engine on the center exhaust manifold bolts. Don't have a picture handy. Don't need an engine tilter, you can balance or tilt the engine with one hand, depending on where the chain is attached and engine with accessories.

Cherry picker is the way to go. Over the fender if you have to, over the front is better if you have the reach. When you mate the transmission input shaft back with the clutch. Don't fight anything. That's where you can get in trouble. Ease the engine in place, mate it up and don't use bolts to pull the two together.

If that doesn't work for you, take a break, have a cold one and then come back and try it again.

This isn't just Corvette, it's any '60's GM.

PS. Can't remember but I think it helps if you leave the fuel pump off until after engine deck.

Pss. If you use a chain hoist, you have to roll the car back and forth to engage the transmission. That's hard to do with the transmission hanging limp and hard to keep a floor jack under the transmission to hold it to the right height.

 

DUB is giving sage advice...I have ruined a brand new high performance clutch trying to mate eng and trans in the car.

Frank

 

Thanks all. Engine is out sans transmission. I 'll see what tomorrow brings...

 

Just reverse what you just done. Going back at an angle will help things, then do a little wiggle , maybe put your car in gear with the tires off the ground then rotate back tire to align the spline shaft into the engine. Also its depends on how high your cherry picker will go.

 

Going back in, I undo the steering drag link bolt to the idler arm which lets you lower the steering gear without losing your toe-in setting.

Gives you more clearance for the pan, especially if it's a 6 qt.

A standard, el cheapo cherry picker needs a short extension on the boom if you're going straight in over the nose. At least mine did as did several other folks'. Wasn't an issue coming out, but made all the difference on re-install (which was done solo).