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Old May 17, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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Default Clutch Help

Just finished replacing the clutch pedal in my 65. No issues with the pedal. I did nothing in the engine bay other than remove and replace the clutch cross shaft return spring and steering column. Everything appears to work correctly when the clutch pedal is pushed in but when released there is a loud pop from the engine bay and clutch pedal looses tension and remains about an inch above the floor. It can be reset by pulling the pedal out. I think the clutch fork is not reseating when released but don't understand how the work I did could have caused the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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Check the ball stud on the side of the block that holds the bell crank. Dennis
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Old May 17, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
Check the ball stud on the side of the block that holds the bell crank. Dennis
The ball stud for the cross shaft? What do I need to look for? There is a big glob of grease that has leaked past the felt washer. Same thing on the side that connects to the frame. The bolt was loose with fresh grease leaking. Do I need to rebuild the cross shaft?
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Old May 17, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mstanton
Just finished replacing the clutch pedal in my 65. No issues with the pedal. I did nothing in the engine bay other than remove and replace the clutch cross shaft return spring and steering column. Everything appears to work correctly when the clutch pedal is pushed in but when released there is a loud pop from the engine bay and clutch pedal looses tension and remains about an inch above the floor. It can be reset by pulling the pedal out. I think the clutch fork is not reseating when released but don't understand how the work I did could have caused the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.
The clutch fork can be put in over the throw-out bearing all the way ...but it should only be inserted partially over the T/O bearing...seems like it should be put all the way over it ...but not so....others may chime in to confirm/verify it's actual location...


Last edited by bluzrocker; May 17, 2014 at 01:04 PM. Reason: add info
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Old May 17, 2014 | 01:17 PM
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Default cross shaft

Originally Posted by mstanton
The ball stud for the cross shaft? What do I need to look for? There is a big glob of grease that has leaked past the felt washer. Same thing on the side that connects to the frame. The bolt was loose with fresh grease leaking. Do I need to rebuild the cross shaft?
the ball stud that goes into the block needs to be tight...and where the other end attaches ..there is a nut to secure the Z bar to it's final resting place...and a retainer that goes against the nut(last) w/ a tab to bend over(very small tab) to keep the nut from turning and loosening up...did you install the fork over the T/O bearing your self? and note how far it was pushed over the T/O bearing? not much to rebuils the shaft...just new plastic things that surround the ball and new felts...seems like it was over greased but that just leaves excess grease at each end...wipe clean for better inspection...you might have someone depress the clutch while you observe the action @ Z bar

Last edited by bluzrocker; May 17, 2014 at 01:21 PM.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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I haven't changed anything with the clutch fork, z bar, or any of the linkage. I just replaced the clutch pedal. All linkage appears to be working properly. Only issue I noted was loose nut where the z bar attaches to the frame. There was play in the bar but I tightened the nut. Could this be caused by a need to adjust the clutch rod with the new pedal?
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Old May 17, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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Default adj ?

Originally Posted by mstanton
I haven't changed anything with the clutch fork, z bar, or any of the linkage. I just replaced the clutch pedal. All linkage appears to be working properly. Only issue I noted was loose nut where the z bar attaches to the frame. There was play in the bar but I tightened the nut. Could this be caused by a need to adjust the clutch rod with the new pedal?
I'm not sure and don't want to shoot in the dark w/ an answer I'm not sure of...so hopefully someone else can answer that but..worth a try to adj the rod...might mark the spot where it is now in case you have to refer to that setting on the rod
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Old May 17, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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did you replace the 4 bushings?
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Old May 17, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
did you replace the 4 bushings?
The four bushings for the clutch pedal? Yes

I was able to observe the clutch fork. It looks like when pedal is let out the clutch fork slips off the throwout bearing. The pop is the throwout bearing slamming back into place. The clutch fork then can't return to the correct position preventing the clutch pedal from coming out.
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Old May 17, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Default Clutch fork

Originally Posted by mstanton
The four bushings for the clutch pedal? Yes

I was able to observe the clutch fork. It looks like when pedal is let out the clutch fork slips off the throwout bearing. The pop is the throwout bearing slamming back into place. The clutch fork then can't return to the correct position preventing the clutch pedal from coming out.
Well the nice thing is you can work on the fork from out side the bellhousing,,,remove the small rod that connects to the fork and you will have to tap and shove the fork in over the T/O...but not all the way over it...(remove the rubber boot so you can see inside)
others will have to chime in to express their thoughts ...I struggled a little bit but did mine while trans was on a engine stand I could see better..
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Old May 17, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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Where your clutch fork slips over the ball in the bell housing 'might' have broken off allowing the fork to travel/**** sideways...

Take off your inspection cover and see if you can see something laying in the bottom...or...try running a pencil magnet in there and see if you catch something...
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mstanton
I haven't changed anything with the clutch fork, z bar, or any of the linkage. I just replaced the clutch pedal. All linkage appears to be working properly. Only issue I noted was loose nut where the z bar attaches to the frame. There was play in the bar but I tightened the nut. Could this be caused by a need to adjust the clutch rod with the new pedal?
YES...the z bar can not or should not have any play in it. It should only rotate.

DUB
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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I think it's fixed, although I haven't gone for a test drive yet. I had to do some significant adjustment to the linkage but the clutch seems to work and I can shift in and out of all gears.
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Old May 18, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mstanton
I think it's fixed, although I haven't gone for a test drive yet. I had to do some significant adjustment to the linkage but the clutch seems to work and I can shift in and out of all gears.
If you adjustment is almost at the end of the push rod...that comes from the clutch pedal...you might wan to seriously look at all of the attachment points. If these linkages are original..I would bet that there is wear on them...and either the shafts have wear on them...or the holes are beginning to look slotted. And trust me...a little bit of wear here and there can make a big difference in the overall operation of the linkage. The only area that should have a slight slot in it is where the rod attaches to your clutch fork.

DUB
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Old May 18, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
If you adjustment is almost at the end of the push rod...that comes from the clutch pedal...you might wan to seriously look at all of the attachment points. If these linkages are original..I would bet that there is wear on them...and either the shafts have wear on them...or the holes are beginning to look slotted. And trust me...a little bit of wear here and there can make a big difference in the overall operation of the linkage. The only area that should have a slight slot in it is where the rod attaches to your clutch fork.

DUB
It is at the end. I've got the car driving again but I will need to go through all the linkage and repair replace as required.

Thanks
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