The Op doesn't say if he has the 2* shims or not.

The 2* shims are to give the car correct caster, an additional set (I have two shims per side) will get the caster correct if he already has one set in there.

Any shims under the lower inner shaft will change camber, and can slightly alter caster if applied only at teh rear of teh lower inner shaft Shims under the lower inner isn't factory. 2" shims between cross member and frame IS factory.

Doug.

 

Dan,
Sorry I may have misunderstood. I thought you were referring to the pivot shaft which actually does the adjustment with an Allen wrench ( the adjustment end is pointed towards the rear). Are you saying to look at the spindle and see if it is more forward at the top or more rearward? If so, how do I check that?
Also, my apologizes to everyone who has helped here. I have to go out of town for a week and will not be able to continue to check the car as ideas come in. If you are like me, I follow a thread like a mystery and like to see how it comes out. I hope when I get back people will still be willing to give me ideas. Right now I'm still focused on shims as a partial answer. Thanks again to all.

 

As I look under the car it appears "to me" that there is a shim already on each side. Not having a lot to go on I can only guess that what I'm seeing is a shim between the cross member and the frame. Does this make sense?

 

Does your print-out show a spec on SAI?
The ST-12 has 3-1/2 to 4-1/2.

 

Here's what the aluminum caster shim looks like, sandwiched between the suspension crossmember and the frame.

 

Being a tappered spacer, maybe it was installed backwards?

 

First, let me thank everyone who posted suggestions about my alignment problem on my 1960 corvette. The problem was finally solved when I found the right alignment guy. He was professional, knowledgeable, and endlessly patient. The solution was several things. First, shimming was an essential step, he also adjusted, and repositioned some things, and, most of all, in the process of shimming he discovered that the PO had not seated the coil spring properly on one side! For those in northern Ohio I'd sure recommend him (Mark) in Litchfield, Ohio (440 - 785-0664). He works out of a shop at his home and he specializes in work on race cars, etc.
The carb problem, however, continues. After tearing them apart several times, taking them to multiple people, etc. I have elected to send them off to be rebuilt. This was the ultimate suggestion by everyone who tried to lean them out. In the process, I decided to remove the manifold and have it soda blasted (a PO had it polished). When I took off the bottom plate I found a six inch crack in the manifold. The machine shop had it welded and all looks super now. I don't see how this would be my problem, as it would probably suck oil into the engine but not make the fuel mixture rich. Never noticed blue smoke either but it had to be potentially harmful. Now I have my fingers crossed that when the carbs return all will be well. Thanks again to all.