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How much MMO did you add? I wouldn't be afraid of 16-32 oz.
I took a quart of oil out and put a quart of MMO in. I'm not convinced its a gummy lifter (only because of my level of luck) I think it's something more. But if it were a bad lifter, cam or spring wouldn't that affect the performance of the engine?
Not necessarily, I had a 327ci Camaro that had a tick in it for 6 months and I drove it daily until I could pull the intake and fix it. The only symptom was the annoying tick.
Do not discount the prior advice here that it might be an exhaust leak.
If it is definitely a lifter its not that big a deal to pull the intake and replace it.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 13, 2014 at 07:55 AM.
I took a quart of oil out and put a quart of MMO in. I'm not convinced its a gummy lifter (only because of my level of luck) I think it's something more. But if it were a bad lifter, cam or spring wouldn't that affect the performance of the engine?
A wiped cam could present itself as a noisy lifter before the engine looses a cylinder. Also, a rocker stud could back out presenting itself like that but from you description I would look at the exhaust manifold to head interface for a leak.
A wiped cam could present itself as a noisy lifter...but from you description I would look at the exhaust manifold to head interface for a leak.
Keep with the simple stuff first.
With a small block Chevy, the simple stuff is always more likely to be the problem. Check for an exhaust leak with a cold engine, use the back of your hand as close to the manifolds as you can comfortably get to feel for the tell tail hot breeze. Exhaust ticks sound remarkably like a lifter tick.
A wiped cam lobe would not, to my way of thinking, go away with Marvel mystery oil & then come back. A bad lobe might tick & fade with rising engine temp and/or be masked by all the other noise but would eventually return louder and louder until the lack of valve movement presented itself as a performance issue.
ALL Chevy V-8's through the mid-70's used no exhaust manifold gaskets - they were all metal-to-metal.
So I guess that could increase the likelihood that my issue is an exhaust leak. Other than stating a cold engine and feeling around the manifold for a leak is there another way to check?
So I guess that could increase the likelihood that my issue is an exhaust leak. Other than stating a cold engine and feeling around the manifold for a leak is there another way to check?
If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, you can do that check very quickly and accurately.
If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, you can do that check very quickly and accurately.
This gasket area was discussed on the NCRS discussion board some time ago and a poster recommended using a gasket sealer that withstands high temperature but I can't recall the brand, maybe someone here will remember.
Should be one in every mechanic's tool box...or at least a 4 foot length of rubber garden hose (it can do the same job).
I went out and got one. Also I tightened up the exhaust manifold. When the engine is cold and until it get hot the tick is not there, when it reaches opp temp you can hear it, clearly
I went out and got one. Also I tightened up the exhaust manifold. When the engine is cold and until it get hot the tick is not there, when it reaches opp temp you can hear it, clearly
If your stethescope confirms it IS and exhaust leak, get a set of gaskets for that side and tighten manifolds back to the head. Your problem could be solved that simply. Or you could do it the hard way, remove the manifold and have it surfaced.
The gaskets are easy. Just cut a 3/8" slot in the bottom, loosen the manifold and drop the gaskets in. No need to completely remove them.
Hmmm...usually an exhaust leak goes away when things heat up and expand and seal up gaps but you can clearly hear it cold. I'd run the car a few more days with the MMO anyway and if the tick doesn't go away, or, you ABSOLUTELY confirm its an exhaust leak you can do as MikeM says. Its a 1/2 hour job and yes, you do not have to remove the manifolds.
If you're lucky you won't have those French locks to deal with.
Those are the stamped sheet metal locks the last guy who worked on it threw away when he removed the exhaust manifold bolts. The front and rear pairs of bolts use them (but not the center two).
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