I'm in the finishing stages of a 5 year build. Just this weekend I did an in home algnment just so I can get it on the road and drive it until I can get it on an alignment rack. Everything went well except the right front camber. I have as many shims as I can get in the right front control arm and it's still kicked in too much. I've read about spreader bars and how these C2 frames bend inwards under extreme driving. Before I buy one i'm just wondering if a speader bar will actually spread the frame like the name or are they just for keeping the frame from moving inward under extreme cornering? Has anyone here had any experience with spreader bars.

 

Hi biggd,

Can you clarify - are you saying the top of the tire is in (negative), because adding shims will pull the Top in and make it more negative, so I think you need to take some shims out to straighten the wheel up

There are some good threads on spreader bars on the forum but I do know the bar is very close to the fan blade and the pulley's.

Phil

 

YES...I have a lot of experience.

Wait until you get it on the alignment rack. Measuring out lower ball joint points and wheelbase. If it were me...I would take out all of the shims on the upper a-arms when it is at the alignment shop. Let the machine calibrate...and it will tell you what to put IN for shim thicknesses. Just make sure your tie-rods are set rather close and not off too far for your 'toe-in'.

I have done more alignments than I can count....and the front end is usually not a big deal....unless you have something bent or out-of whack. And that can be even as simple as the lower A-arm shaft being up-side own....which can happen if you are not paying attention. The REAR alignment is where a lot of time can be spent. And if it is a power steering car....the control valve being balanced correctly so the car does not pull to the left or right due to the control valve is not balanced...and making you 'think' that your alignment is bad.

Spreader bars DO NOT have the strength to stretch the upper control arm mount points apart. That takes a frame machine to do that. The spreader bar just keeps the upper control arm mounting points from moving inwards. Which we all know is an inherent issue due to cradle collapse.

I have been present when the cradle has been stretched back so the upper control arm mounting points brought back to acceptable dimensions for the shim packs and alignment.....and the pressure that the process takes is much more involved than the spreader bar can handle. I know I would not waste my time trying to spread it out by slowing threading out the shaft of the spreader bar. Trying to use the spreader bar as a pushing force to correct a cradle issue is quite ridiculous...because...the perches for your engine mounts are effected. WAY TOO MUCH steel to try to move with such a small component. BUT...I am sure someone has done it and will state differently.

 

You are right, I don't know what I was thinking. A spreader bar would actually make it worse. It's kicked out too far not in. I need the wheel to go in more and there is no more room for shims. I was just trying to get both wheels plumb until I could get it on an alignment rack. When I bought this project 5 years ago it was already started. The chassis was done and the body was bolted on. It looks like a C3 frame that had a C2 back welded to it. He said it was set up on a C2 jig but something is off on the right front. The back came out fine and I got the left front plumb. I got the toe set pretty good on the front. I drove it about a mile and it seems to track straight. I have a steeroids P/S rack assembly in this car also so it steers very easily and straight.

 

You may need to install these
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...rod=MOOG-K6104

 

Right - so you have too much positive Camber - top of the tire out-

How are you measuring it?? With the level and screws on the rim?

How much is it out?

The right and left should be close when it comes to the number of shims. So if you need more shims it may be time for a offset A arm shaft by Moog.

Note that the toe in should be checked after you adjust the Camber or Caster.

I purchased a Camber Caster Gauge on Ebay from Joes Performance for $100 and now do all my own alignments.

Phil

 

Yes, I measured it with a magnetic level stuck to a piece of steel cut to the rim size. Like I said I'm just trying to get them plumb until I can get it to an alignment rack but can't seem to get the right side to go in any more. Probably needs to go in another 1/8 to 1/4 inch but there really in no more room for shims. It seems to drive and handle fine so I think I'm good until I can get it to an alignment rack.