Wax for C-1's and C-2's?
#3
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I drank the Zaino koolaid when I got my C5 in 1998. The finish on that car still looks brand new after 16 years..
So I use it on my 61 as well.. It's still got the original paint. They make a special formula for non-clear coated lacquer. (Z3 I think)
Brand hype aside, the single best thing I ever did for the '61 finish was to clay-bar it. It was a dramatic improvement.
Fred
So I use it on my 61 as well.. It's still got the original paint. They make a special formula for non-clear coated lacquer. (Z3 I think)
Brand hype aside, the single best thing I ever did for the '61 finish was to clay-bar it. It was a dramatic improvement.
Fred
#4
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Another question with 1,000 answers by this evening.
With 8 cars I've tried them all.
Black car? Use Maguire's high tech spray wax, leaves the least amount of hazing visible in direct sun light. Maguire's synthetic sealant works well too, but once done you might want to go over it again with clean microfiber towels that were previously dampened & left in the freezer for 20 minutes. This will remove the haze.
Lighter colors? Nothing beats Colonite insulator wax (used by linemen on high voltage insulators) for protection & longevity. Put it on thin, a little goes a long way.
Beyond that Maguire's various liquids and pastes are no better or worse than any of the 900+ recommendation's that will invariably follow my post. I know what to expect with them, so that is what I use.
The rest of them, especially the expensive perfumed stuff in caviar jars (and priced as such) are just waxes with coloring and perfume, don't fool yourself.
I avoid "New Finish" and other products advertised to last a year or that have abrasives or chemical cleaners in them. I worry about silicone and other crap that could cause problems in the paint shop, God forbid that becomes necessary.
Remember, the less you "rub" your paint, with anything, the better. That is where scratches & swirls come from, regardless of the fancy-*** potions used.
Dan
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#6
Race Director
I will write this....and it is basically commenting on what dplotkin wrote:
"I avoid "New Finish" and other products advertised to last a year or that have abrasives or chemical cleaners in them. I worry about silicone and other crap that could cause problems in the paint shop, God forbid that becomes necessary. "
One thing that many not realize that what is used on a factory BAKED finish can be different to that of what is used on a FRESH paint job....that CAN NOT be baked to the temperatures that the factory can achieve. Force dried...YES...but nothing close to what GM can do.
I have my beliefs in this and CLEARLY let my customers know what they CANNOT use on my paint job. If they choose to 'do their own thing'...and use product that is not something that I believe in...then they forfeited the warranty.
And for those who apply 'whatever'...if you do have a problem and painting is needed...MAKE SURE that you tell the painter and bodyman...so they know how to begin the repairs...due to some products applied on paint can really make it hard to get paint to stick WITHOUT performing a specific cleaning process NUMEROUS times.
And in many cases when I call these companies of products that have been applied...and ask for detailed MSDS sheets and information...sometimes I get the 'run around' and I am just told to wash it with soap and water and it will be 'fine'...BUT YET...'they' proclaim that it repels numerous environmental contaminants....and then how and the heck is soap and water going to pull this 'stuff' out of the paint so my paint will stick. YEAH---RIGHT!
THINK --before you go and put something on your paint...or you may be sorry.
DUB
"I avoid "New Finish" and other products advertised to last a year or that have abrasives or chemical cleaners in them. I worry about silicone and other crap that could cause problems in the paint shop, God forbid that becomes necessary. "
One thing that many not realize that what is used on a factory BAKED finish can be different to that of what is used on a FRESH paint job....that CAN NOT be baked to the temperatures that the factory can achieve. Force dried...YES...but nothing close to what GM can do.
I have my beliefs in this and CLEARLY let my customers know what they CANNOT use on my paint job. If they choose to 'do their own thing'...and use product that is not something that I believe in...then they forfeited the warranty.
And for those who apply 'whatever'...if you do have a problem and painting is needed...MAKE SURE that you tell the painter and bodyman...so they know how to begin the repairs...due to some products applied on paint can really make it hard to get paint to stick WITHOUT performing a specific cleaning process NUMEROUS times.
And in many cases when I call these companies of products that have been applied...and ask for detailed MSDS sheets and information...sometimes I get the 'run around' and I am just told to wash it with soap and water and it will be 'fine'...BUT YET...'they' proclaim that it repels numerous environmental contaminants....and then how and the heck is soap and water going to pull this 'stuff' out of the paint so my paint will stick. YEAH---RIGHT!
THINK --before you go and put something on your paint...or you may be sorry.
DUB
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#9
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St. Jude Donor '05
There is no special wax for a C1 nor a Ford LTD
Pick one and try it out
Pick one and try it out
#10
Melting Slicks
#11
Team Owner
I Clay Bar it first then I use
"Meguiar's Carnauba Plus Liquid Wax"
"Meguiar's Carnauba Plus Liquid Wax"
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I use Zaino products on all my cars. I really like the Clear Sealant followed by Z8. I have tried Rejex in the past. IMO it does not have the shine or durability that Zaino does. There are alot of great products out there now. Proper preparation is the key to a nice finish.
#13
Each coat, added days or months apart, adds additional protection. Very durable, leaves no polish marks, so little if any abrasives IMO. Incredibly slippery surface that bugs have trouble sticking to. Best applied to a perfectly-prepared finish for final maximum protection.
Some colors are VERY slightly darkened by Liquid Glass, evidence that it penetrates the surface IMO. You may want to test on a hidden area of your old-school lacquer. This does not happen on clear coated paint.
#14
Team Owner
About once a year I'll clay bar my cars, and follow that with a light buffing using a light glaze and my Porter-Cable buffer. I follow that up with some carnuba-based paste wax.
That makes the cars look like jewelry...the '61 is BC/CC and the '63 is single stage paint.
In between those annual tasks I just use some Quick Detailer and micro-fibre towels.
I've gotten to the point that I think the less time you spend rubbing on the finishes the better...and I no longer use ANY car covers when the cars are parked in the garage...
That makes the cars look like jewelry...the '61 is BC/CC and the '63 is single stage paint.
In between those annual tasks I just use some Quick Detailer and micro-fibre towels.
I've gotten to the point that I think the less time you spend rubbing on the finishes the better...and I no longer use ANY car covers when the cars are parked in the garage...
#15
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That's it Frankie, the less you touch the paint the better. Especially black cars.
I too gave up on using covers during the season, dragging them across a dusty car does the paint no good and leaves lint everywhere, I cover them only for the winter layup.
Dan
#16
Zaino wax with the additive so you can place 5 coats of wax on at one time. takes 4 hours . Good to go . very small amount thin coat. They carry a swirl remover and a great tire dressing as well as a liquid spray to help whipe dust off. No I don't sell it . Just used first time this year.
I think the ease of the product will be what you are looking for .
Have fun.
I think the ease of the product will be what you are looking for .
Have fun.
#18
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Just want to point out 2 things about Zaino... (1) it's not wax-based, it's something else, that's why you can layer it... and (2) Their 'legacy' polishes do not contain abrasives, BUT their newer AIO (all in one) product does have a mild abrasive.
There is a time and place for abrasives.. but be aware of what you are using.
There is a time and place for abrasives.. but be aware of what you are using.
#20
Melting Slicks
About once a year I'll clay bar my cars, and follow that with a light buffing using a light glaze and my Porter-Cable buffer. I follow that up with some carnuba-based paste wax.
That makes the cars look like jewelry...the '61 is BC/CC and the '63 is single stage paint.
In between those annual tasks I just use some Quick Detailer and micro-fibre towels.
I've gotten to the point that I think the less time you spend rubbing on the finishes the better...and I no longer use ANY car covers when the cars are parked in the garage...
That makes the cars look like jewelry...the '61 is BC/CC and the '63 is single stage paint.
In between those annual tasks I just use some Quick Detailer and micro-fibre towels.
I've gotten to the point that I think the less time you spend rubbing on the finishes the better...and I no longer use ANY car covers when the cars are parked in the garage...
Why don't you cover your cars in the garage? I use a flannel cover and it seems to keep the dust off in between rides.