wmf62

a friend sent a picture from an article in the recent NCRS Restorer about using a piece of Hardee Board as an insulator to shield the spider.

seems as it may have merit.... anyone seen the article?

opinions? (yeah, and not of the "everyone has one" kind. .)
Bill

63Corvette

Looks like it might work. However, it might just keep the heat in? I might try using a piece of asbestos shingle in that shape rather than a metal shield.

wmf62

are you using a piece of metal, or do you think the Hardee Board is metal? (it's not, it's a form of concrete......)
Bill

ohiovet

I think that the 1 piece 1/8" thick base gasket is a better choice.

Dr L-88

I've seen these new of ebay for about $40 from a guy in FLA. I think he can even make them for later model FI units.....................

http://www.ebay.com/itm/58-59-60-61-62-CORVETTE-FUEL-INJECTION-PARTS-LOT-/131259299447?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8fa9f677&vxp=mtr

jtranger

Bill,

Brian Futo wrote that article. I have spoke with him before and he claims it works in AZ heat. That is where he rebuilds FI units. I currently put a piece of reflective heat barrier on my base plate under the spider and have noticed a difference.

If you try the technique in the article, let us FI guys know how it works. I would imagine the hardy board would absorb heat well.

Loren Smith

Could the one piece gasket be mounted over the Hardee Board cutout?

wmf62

first thought... there must have been a reason GM stopped making the one piece gasket, and i can't imagine that there is much of an R-value to that gasket material.

2nd thought.... i THINK the hardee board would be too thick and would stick up above the gasket surface the one piece gasket has to fit.

3rd thought... the reflective heat barrier (if it has an R-value) sounds like a good idea.

if Brian says it works, especially on a C1, in AZ; then it sounds to be worth trying. especially if a piece of the reflective material could be put on the bottom....
Bill

wmf62

, with the conversion, heat is no longer a problem for me; BUT, if i had heard of these things before converting, i might still be running the rochester...
Bill

Nev Williams

Hi Bill,
I would be wary about using Hardie Product esp where heat is involved. the stuff will turn into weetbix in short order.

I used to work at James Hardie here in New Zealand for 18 years designing their production machinery. They removed the asbestos from the product years ago, so it's heat resisting qualities are diminished greatly (as well as it's strength). They replaced the asbestos with craft pulp - essentially brown cardboard pulped and shredded.

Neville

wmf62

thank you, Hardie Board is used extensively here as an exterior siding product in wet environments (Florida... )

sure is fire resistant tho, but not sure if there is an R-value in that...

http://www.homeadvisor.com/article.s...ing.15726.html

Bill

Rumblegutz

wmf62, can you give me a volume and edition number for the Futo article. Or the year and season please.

Dan

toms silver 60

Corvette Restorer, volume 40, number 3, winter 2014 page 32

DZAUTO

I can't help but be somewhat skeptical about the use of a heat barrier between the adapter plate and the plenum.
Once the engine and engine compartment is THOROUGHLY heated up, it would seem that the ENTIRE area in and around the area of the top of the engine would be the same temperature. It would seem that the temperature surrounding the engine would also work its way between the heat barrier and the underside of the plenum, until movement of the car and airflow from the fan begins to remove the hot air under the plenum. Once that occurs, everything works fine.

jim lockwood

As counter-intuitive as it may seem, the engine fan actually contributes to spider and nozzle line heating. If you watch the temperatures of the nozzle lines, you see them change suddenly after the thermostat opens and the radiator starts flowing hot coolant. It's due to the hot air which begins flooding the engine bay.

Jim

jerry gollnick

I have heard it postulated that the hot oil hits the underside of the adaptor and causes the adaptor to be hotter than the surrounding water temperature cooled components. This would lend some credibility to the need to put a thermal barrier between the adaptor and the spider. You could also put a heat shield on the underside of the adaptor to prevent the direct impingement of the oil unto the underside of the adaptor. Chevrolet did this with some of the HP intakes.

jtranger

Great point Jerry!

MikeM

I believe that heat shield was riveted to the underside of the manifold was to keep motor oil from cooking/caking on the bottom of the even hotter exhaust crossover passage.

Could be wrong though.

JohnZ

You are correct - that's exactly what the shield is for; fortunately, the F.I. cars don't have to worry about it.