Speedometer problem
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
Hello Ray -- How ya doing? I am glad that your car is nearing completion. I hope you drive it down next May and come see Jeff and I.
Not my first Corvette for sure but it might be my last. I am starting to rethink my future with Corvettes. I have just been around them too long and the spark is fading fast. Oh well time will tell.
Jay
Not my first Corvette for sure but it might be my last. I am starting to rethink my future with Corvettes. I have just been around them too long and the spark is fading fast. Oh well time will tell.
Jay
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
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If you do decide to remove the cluster I wrote an article describing the procedure which I can send you.
Joe
Joe
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
I would be very interested in reading your procedure for removing the cluster. Can you please send it to me at deejaydu@sbcglobal.net
Thanks in advance
Jay
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Junction City OR
Hello Jay,
Here is what I know about the removing the speedometer and tachometer from the housing. The speedometer will have to be removed first. This is because it has one attachment point on the upper housing and two attachment points on the lower. If you can make the room, I think it would be a benefit in your situation to remove the speedometer from the housing(s) and then remove the tach. The tach only has two attachment points on the lower housing and the cable and it should remove without removing the lower housing.
If you are careful, I believe you could remove the speedometer and the tachometer without disrupting any of the wiring to the small gauges or removing the lower housing. Most important, make sure you have the negative battery cable disconnected.
This may require some flexibility on your part
I would also be interested in plaidside (Joe's) instructions as well.
Take care,
Tom
Here is what I know about the removing the speedometer and tachometer from the housing. The speedometer will have to be removed first. This is because it has one attachment point on the upper housing and two attachment points on the lower. If you can make the room, I think it would be a benefit in your situation to remove the speedometer from the housing(s) and then remove the tach. The tach only has two attachment points on the lower housing and the cable and it should remove without removing the lower housing.
If you are careful, I believe you could remove the speedometer and the tachometer without disrupting any of the wiring to the small gauges or removing the lower housing. Most important, make sure you have the negative battery cable disconnected.
This may require some flexibility on your part
I would also be interested in plaidside (Joe's) instructions as well.
Take care,
Tom
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Nov 16, 2014 at 02:15 AM. Reason: Removed quote containing commercial message re: NSV
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
Here are Joe's (plaidside) C1 dash pull instructions that I collaborated on with him. I've pulled my '61 dash twice and IMO there is no way you are going to remove the speedo/tach without pulling the cluster.
Just pull it and send the whole thing off or all the gauges at least. Once somebody has the speedo/tach to check out the 'small gauges' are a breeze to check/re-calibrate and then you know you won't be doing the job twice. If your car is very original then you'll need some 'clutch head' screwdrivers to remove the steering wheel.
There are 5 bolts that need removed to pull the cluster (red circles) and there is a VERY important ground wire that has to be attached correctly near the speedo on reassembly. This is also the time to put a 30 amp ATC blade type fuse in the black wire to the ammeter to save your car from an electrical fire. The ammeters in the dash are 'full flow' and its a poor design as you have FULL current for the car running, unfused to the ammeter. In this particular case - screw originality; this is a primary safety issue.
I think the NCRS should give you some points for it -- like they do for carrying a fire extinguisher.
There are small pot metal 'tabs' holding the top and bottom halves of the cluster together be VERY careful not to break those off.
Good luck.
Just pull it and send the whole thing off or all the gauges at least. Once somebody has the speedo/tach to check out the 'small gauges' are a breeze to check/re-calibrate and then you know you won't be doing the job twice. If your car is very original then you'll need some 'clutch head' screwdrivers to remove the steering wheel.
There are 5 bolts that need removed to pull the cluster (red circles) and there is a VERY important ground wire that has to be attached correctly near the speedo on reassembly. This is also the time to put a 30 amp ATC blade type fuse in the black wire to the ammeter to save your car from an electrical fire. The ammeters in the dash are 'full flow' and its a poor design as you have FULL current for the car running, unfused to the ammeter. In this particular case - screw originality; this is a primary safety issue.
I think the NCRS should give you some points for it -- like they do for carrying a fire extinguisher.
There are small pot metal 'tabs' holding the top and bottom halves of the cluster together be VERY careful not to break those off.
Good luck.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 16, 2014 at 07:32 AM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 657
From: Blairsville , Georgia
Here are Joe's (plaidside) C1 dash pull instructions that I collaborated on with him. I've pulled my '61 dash twice and IMO there is no way you are going to remove the speedo/tach without pulling the cluster.
Just pull it and send the whole thing off or all the gauges at least. Once somebody has the speedo/tach to check out the 'small gauges' are a breeze to check/re-calibrate and then you know you won't be doing the job twice. If your car is very original then you'll need some 'clutch head' screwdrivers to remove the steering wheel.
There are 5 bolts that need removed to pull the cluster (red circles) and there is a VERY important ground wire that has to be attached correctly near the speedo on reassembly. This is also the time to put a 30 amp ATC blade type fuse in the black wire to the ammeter to save your car from an electrical fire. The ammeters in the dash are 'full flow' and its a poor design as you have FULL current for the car running, unfused to the ammeter. In this particular case - screw originality; this is a primary safety issue.
I think the NCRS should give you some points for it -- like they do for carrying a fire extinguisher.
There are small pot metal 'tabs' holding the top and bottom halves of the cluster together be VERY careful not to break those off.
Good luck.
Just pull it and send the whole thing off or all the gauges at least. Once somebody has the speedo/tach to check out the 'small gauges' are a breeze to check/re-calibrate and then you know you won't be doing the job twice. If your car is very original then you'll need some 'clutch head' screwdrivers to remove the steering wheel.
There are 5 bolts that need removed to pull the cluster (red circles) and there is a VERY important ground wire that has to be attached correctly near the speedo on reassembly. This is also the time to put a 30 amp ATC blade type fuse in the black wire to the ammeter to save your car from an electrical fire. The ammeters in the dash are 'full flow' and its a poor design as you have FULL current for the car running, unfused to the ammeter. In this particular case - screw originality; this is a primary safety issue.
I think the NCRS should give you some points for it -- like they do for carrying a fire extinguisher.
There are small pot metal 'tabs' holding the top and bottom halves of the cluster together be VERY careful not to break those off.
Good luck.
Jay
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Junction City OR
I could not agree more with fuse or fusible link protection. It is a very inexpensive form of insurance and piece of mind to protect your wiring.
Take care,
Tom
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
You want a fuse, not a fusible link, behind the ammeter. Fusible links make some smoke when they blow and are probably a little more drama than you might want if you're sitting in the cockpit when it happens...