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I was driving my 61 yesterday and my speedometer started making a noise and the needle started moving up erratically and then went past 160 and disappeared. Even when I shut the car off it never came back. I do not have any idea where it went. The strange thing is that the odometer is still working. I checked it against what it is moving and it is exactly correct. No one has ever been into the dash in the car. I am the second owner and I know all of the history from new. I know that a lubrication issue caused the problem. I am puzzled and disappointed that I am now going to have to go into the dash of a completely original car. Does anyone have any idea as to what is wrong since the odometer is still working? If the odometer is still working does that mean that the cable is ok?
If the odometer is working the drive gear in the tranny and cable are working after a fashion. The cable could still be kinked or need lubricated. My money is on the speedometer 'head' being broken though. Its prob high time to get all of the gauges looked at/calibrated seems to me...
If the odometer is working the drive gear in the tranny and cable are working after a fashion. The cable could still be kinked or need lubricated. My money is on the speedometer 'head' being broken though. Its prob high time to get all of the gauges looked at/calibrated seems to me...
Frankie I agree with your assessment. I just hate the thought of taking the cluster out of this car that has never been touched since it was built. I took one out of a 58 many many years ago and I remember thinking I hope that I never have to do that job again. Oh well it will be all worth it once it is done.
Frankie I agree with your assessment. I just hate the thought of taking the cluster out of this car that has never been touched since it was built. I took one out of a 58 many many years ago and I remember thinking I hope that I never have to do that job again. Oh well it will be all worth it once it is done.
Thanks for your reply
Jay
While you're at it look for a post on here titled "C1 Fuse Points" and consider protecting your old wiring.
I know the fear. At the present time I have no tach and no speedometer. The gauge folks want me to send them the entire cluster for rebuilding. I'm seriously afraid.
I know the fear. At the present time I have no tach and no speedometer. The gauge folks want me to send them the entire cluster for rebuilding. I'm seriously afraid.
Right now I use an iPhone Ap for a speedometer.
Richard Newton
Having done 2 C1 dash pod pulls and 2 C2 dash pod pulls now; gimme the C1 any day of the week. You can do it without removing the steering column and the mechanical/electrical part is straight-forward. Safety-wise the C1 is trickier though; lots of individual screw-on wire terminals to the gauges vs a C2's approach with ganged plastic connectors you just push on.
I assume you know that with your ignition switch left in the OFF position on a C1 that anybody can start your car without a key....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 10, 2014 at 06:59 AM.
If your cluster is unmolested, there are date stamps on the back of the speedo and tach.
Make sure your restorer doesn't disturb the stamps, they can replate the housing without removing the stamps, buy taping over them.
Your tach needs to get completely rebuilt when you have the speedo completely rebuilt.
My cluster was stamped May 28, 1961 for June 6 build car.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; Nov 12, 2014 at 11:03 AM.
Reason: spelling
I was driving my 61 yesterday and my speedometer started making a noise and the needle started moving up erratically and then went past 160 and disappeared.
No one has ever been into the dash in the car. I am the second owner and I know all of the history from new. I know that a lubrication issue caused the problem.
This isn't a lubrication issue. The speedometer head is worn out and needs to be replaced. Take advantage of the situation and replace the tachometer head also while you have the cluster out.
This isn't a lubrication issue. The speedometer head is worn out and needs to be replaced. Take advantage of the situation and replace the tachometer head also while you have the cluster out.
Jim
Jim I agree the car has 125,512 original miles on it and has never been touched as far as servicing the gauges or much else for that matter. I am sure that the head is worn out. It is a very nice overall original car and I just hate to start taking it apart. Oh well.
Jim I agree the car has 125,512 original miles on it and has never been touched as far as servicing the gauges or much else for that matter. I am sure that the head is worn out. It is a very nice overall original car and I just hate to start taking it apart. Oh well.
Thanks
Jay
125K is actually a good service life for the old magnetic/mechanical speedometers. I've seen them fail at mileage as low as 68K miles. I think the best I've seen was around 133K miles.
I understand your reluctance to take apart an original, unmolested car. Project creep always seems to rear its ugly head once you turn the first screw. It's downhill after that.
125K is actually a good service life for the old magnetic/mechanical speedometers. I've seen them fail at mileage as low as 68K miles. I think the best I've seen was around 133K miles.
I understand your reluctance to take apart an original, unmolested car. Project creep always seems to rear its ugly head once you turn the first screw. It's downhill after that.
Jim
Jim the car is so absolutely untouched I might just leave it alone and keep driving it as is. It has original paint, interior except seat covers, Bumpers, etc,etc. I will just have to think it over and go from there. Maybe I should consider selling it and let someone else do it. No I have had it for too long.
You need to decide how deep you are willing to dive before removing that cluster. You will almost certainly find old, brittle, internally corroded wiring - so a harness replacement may well be in order.
Personally I would fix things or else not drive it....or sell it.
I don't understand your aversion to keeping the car in proper running trim and repairing faults unless you are going for some judged survivor class award or some such. But its your car.
You need to decide how deep you are willing to dive before removing that cluster. You will almost certainly find old, brittle, internally corroded wiring - so a harness replacement may well be in order.
Personally I would fix things or else not drive it....or sell it.
I don't understand your aversion to keeping the car in proper running trim and repairing faults unless you are going for some judged survivor class award or some such. But its your car.
Hello Frankie,
I understand where you are coming from. I own 5 Corvettes four straight axles and midyears combined. I keep all of them in good operational condition and they are all registered and run and drive safely and dependably. The issue is just what you stated as to how far am I willing to go. I do not belong to the NCRS or any car/corvette clubs of any kind other than being a member here so judging has never been nor will ever be an issue. I can still drive the car now just without the benefit of the speedometer. The original dashpad needs to be replaced simply because it is so brittle that when I remove the cluster it will fall apart. You know that I will then have to pull the windshield and so on and so forth. I am not concerned about the wiring as it is still in excellent condition and can easily be disconnected and reconnected without any problems. I will think this completely through and either go all of the way or just continue to enjoy the car the way that it is until something else needs repair.
But don't think that wiring is good because it looks good externally. 50 year old wiring gets internal black corrosion inside the insulation and degrades badly over time. I wish I had taken pictures of my tail light harness in the '61 when I did some splicing....the wires didn't even look like copper anymore. If yours is fine then great - but the C1s are notorious for electrical fires so don't take any chances.
You and Rich Yanulis on here should meet up. He seems to have the same approach as you to his '63 convertible
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If you don't want to damage the head any farther, you can disconnect the speedo cable at the cluster. If so, disconnect the battery first, and then try to use a set of fuse pliers and break the connection loose (counter-clockwise. Then if you have small hands, you can get two fingers on it. Run w/o the cable connected and use your tach for estimated speed.
If you don't want to damage the head any farther, you can disconnect the speedo cable at the cluster. If so, disconnect the battery first, and then try to use a set of fuse pliers and break the connection loose (counter-clockwise. Then if you have small hands, you can get two fingers on it. Run w/o the cable connected and use your tach for estimated speed.
Internally the magnet/first worm & shaft assembly has likely been hitting the speed cup.
When this happens, it's typically due to a worn bushing in the main frame head, or the joint between the needle shaft and speed cup has broken away, thus making your needle disappear.
The speed cup shaft connects to the needle. The can still drive the odometer as it's a separate gear at the base of the shaft.
Same exact scenario as yours happened to my '59.....about 28 years ago. Mine had a speed cup problem. The needle shaft joint separated from the cup. I was able to repair it with some silver solder.
This is probably more info than you really want to know, but it needs to see a doctor and get rejuvenated....
Internally the magnet/first worm & shaft assembly has likely been hitting the speed cup.
When this happens, it's typically due to a worn bushing in the main frame head, or the joint between the needle shaft and speed cup has broken away, thus making your needle disappear.
The speed cup shaft connects to the needle. The can still drive the odometer as it's a separate gear at the base of the shaft.
Same exact scenario as yours happened to my '59.....about 28 years ago. Mine had a speed cup problem. The needle shaft joint separated from the cup. I was able to repair it with some silver solder.
This is probably more info than you really want to know, but it needs to see a doctor and get rejuvenated....
A breakdown of similar internals below....
Rich
Rich thanks for the explanation and the diagram. That will be very helpful in getting it fixed.
Speedometer problem
Mine had a speed cup problem. The needle shaft joint separated from the cup. I was able to repair it with some silver solder.
