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I had one of those cheapy hoists last time I did mine. I pulled it from the passenger side and wound up finally putting the car on short jackstands and pulling the passenger wheel and tire to get the hoist lined up right.
SILLY BOY....I know how to do it as you wrote. I do it a bit differently...I have long bolts with the heads cut off so I can slide the transmission into the clutch assembly, pilot bushing and bellhousing....as a guide.....while supporting the transmission on a modified creeper so the transmission can slide.
What you may not know ( or maybe you do) is that I fix a lot of Corvettes and many can be where when an engine is being installed as the photo's posted in the earlier post caused a problem. AND the transmission had to come back out to repair the clutch disc or pilot bushing damage.
I KNOW you know what you are doing...or seem to come across that you ....but I prefer having the assembly on the floor and is is faster for me. I do noshing but Corvettes so removing a shifter and other parts is a JOKE. And when the shifter is out any repairs or modifications to ii can be done.
I agree....if it is only a rear main seal leaking...the engine does not need to come out for that. But I would then check the crankshaft run-out/end play...to make sure the thrust bearing is not worn out due to someone riding the clutch all the time.
Hopefully Spike66 the engine rebuild and work all goes well without too many problems.
Can definitely pull engine and transmission with radiator support in, I didnt take much off the block at all when I pulled mine. Went from the side with the front wheel removed, very easy with the tilter as shown.
I have never pulled just the engine, but its so little effort to pull both and you get to clean/tidy up the muncie while its out if nothing else. I replaced some of the seals, my tail yoke one was leaking and it a super easy fix out of the car.
Can definitely pull engine and transmission with radiator support in, I didnt take much off the block at all when I pulled mine. Went from the side with the front wheel removed, very easy with the tilter as shown.
I have never pulled just the engine, but its so little effort to pull both and you get to clean/tidy up the muncie while its out if nothing else. I replaced some of the seals, my tail yoke one was leaking and it a super easy fix out of the car.
Again, what is the main issue with just pulling the engine and leaving the transmission? The GM service manual instructs pulling them together also. Is it for ease of re-assembly? Access to other serviceable parts that may be in need of service? Or as someone mention in an earlier post, a yoke and driveshaft alignment issue?
Again, what is the main issue with just pulling the engine and leaving the transmission? The GM service manual instructs pulling them together also. Is it for ease of re-assembly? Access to other serviceable parts that may be in need of service? Or as someone mention in an earlier post, a yoke and driveshaft alignment issue?
I think the main issue most have is they can't get the transmission back in that last inch when putting the transmission in separate from the engine. But I outlined what you need in the middle of post 19.
A couple of guide pins, a 5 inch extension, a 10 inch extension, a universal swivel, 3/4 inch socket, and a ratchet will allow you to handle the four transmission to bellhousing bolts fairly well.
i wouldn't put it in with the bellhousing sitting down there attached to the transmission already, like that one set of photos. I hate having to turn those bellhousing to block bolts in a quarter or half a turn at a time.
Why from the side and not the front? One more time, exactly....?
The boom length on most engine hoists is not long enough to do the job from the front.
When removing the engine from the side the boom will be plenty long enough. You simply pick the engine up and crab walk the hoist until the engine clears the nose of the car.
got the motor and transmission out today. Like the advice given to me here: Take the trans out with the motor. Use a leveler. You can do this solo, from the front, hood off, shroud in, car on the ground. It's pretty simple, straightforward. Anyone can do it with the right tools and some basics.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Now let the spending begin....
Now that the motor is out, I'm facing the prospect of who will do the rebuild. My original choice closed shop just after I got it out. I've gotten a few leads from someone in the know but am interested in any thoughts from others on this forum who might know a good rebuilder who takes the time to do all of it right. I'm in upstate NY and am willing to travel within a reasonable distance for the right shop. Attention to detail, personal service and top shelf parts are what I'm looking for. I'm only doing this once and doing it right. If you want to PM me with suggestions that would be fine or you can post on the forum.
As an aside, if anyone has thoughts on whose parts to use along the way, I'd like to hear that as well. Pistons, valves, rods, cam, lifters, rings etc.
Since you are back in the search for a shop, one thing I did was too visit three shops and look at how each is organized, cleanleness and what type of rebuilds they do. I understand that might be tough for you, but you want too be sure of the shop who you are having build the motor, for the last time. Your intended use of the engine will help a shop pick the best name parts and type of build that fits you and your wallet. Recently some had a discussion on here about internal parts. Dennis
Since you are back in the search for a shop, one thing I did was too visit three shops and look at how each is organized, cleanleness and what type of rebuilds they do. I understand that might be tough for you, but you want too be sure of the shop who you are having build the motor, for the last time. Your intended use of the engine will help a shop pick the best name parts and type of build that fits you and your wallet. Recently some had a discussion on here about internal parts. Dennis
Thanks Dennis. I read those posts you mentioned. Given the distance to some of the shops I have rec's on, I was hoping to do some advance work either over the phone or internet. I did speak with one guy with a good rep but he won't return my email request for whose parts he'd use in the rebuild. I don't think it's asking too much for that. Afterall, it's my nickel and if it's all about experitise, what's the harm in asking what I'm getting for that nickel? I'm a building contractor with a good reputation. If a prospective client asks about materials and procedures, I feel I'm duty bound to provide answers. It gives the owner information to make decisions and an opportunity for me to sell the job. So with this guy, I just may move on.
Thanks Dennis. I read those posts you mentioned. Given the distance to some of the shops I have rec's on, I was hoping to do some advance work either over the phone or internet. I did speak with one guy with a good rep but he won't return my email request for whose parts he'd use in the rebuild. I don't think it's asking too much for that. Afterall, it's my nickel and if it's all about experitise, what's the harm in asking what I'm getting for that nickel? I'm a building contractor with a good reputation. If a prospective client asks about materials and procedures, I feel I'm duty bound to provide answers. It gives the owner information to make decisions and an opportunity for me to sell the job. So with this guy, I just may move on.
Touche
Dennis
